226 T HE ORCHARD. [March. 
is covered over with it, letting it remain for half an hour, to absorb 
the moisture; then apply more powder, rubbing it on gently with 
the hand, and repeating the application of the powder till the whole 
plaster becomes a dry smooth surface. 
" All trees cut down near the ground, should have the surface 
made quite smooth, rounding it off in a small degree, as before 
mentioned; and the dry powder directed to be used afterwards 
should have an equal quantity of powder of alabaster mixed with 
it, in order the better to resist the dripping of trees and heavy 
rains. 
" If any of the composition be left for a future occasion, it should 
be kept in a tub, or other vessel, and urine of any kind poured on it, 
so as to cover the surface; otherwise the atmosphere will greatly 
hurt the efficacy of the application. 
" Where lime rubbish of old buildings cannot be easily got, 
take pounded chalk, or common lime, after having been slacked a 
month at least. 
" As the growth of the tree will gradually affect the plaster, by 
raising up its edges next the bark, care should be taken, where that 
happens, to rub it over with the finger when occasion may require 
(which is best done when moistened by rain,) that the plaster may 
be kept whole, to prevent the air and wet, from penetrating into the 
wound." 
•Additional directions for making and using the Composition. 
" To the foregoing directions for making and applying the com- 
position, it is necessary to add the following." 
" As the best way of using the composition is found, by experience, 
to be in a liquid state, it must, therefore, be reduced to the consis- 
tence of pretty thick paint, by mixing it up with a sufficient quantity 
of urine and soap-suds, and laid on with a painter's brush. The 
powder of wood-ashes and burnt bones, is to be applied as before di- 
rected, patting it down with the hand." 
" When trees are become hollow, you must scoop out all the rot- 
ten, loose, and dead parts of the trunk till you come to the solid 
wood, leaving the surface smooth; then cover the hollow, and 
every part where the canker has been cut out, or branches lopped 
off, with the composition; and, as the edges grow, take care not to 
let the new wood come in contact with the dead, part of which it 
may be sometimes necessary to leave; but cut out the old dead 
wood as the new advances, keeping a hollow between them, to allow 
the new wood room to extend itself, and thereby fill up the cavity, 
which it will do in time, so as to make as it were a new tree. If 
the cavity be large, you may cut away as much at one operation as 
will be sufficient for three years. But in this you are to be. guided 
by the size of the wound, and other circumstances. When the 
new wood, advancing from both sides of the wound, has almost met, 
cut off the bark from both the edges, that the solid wood may join, 
which, if properly managed, it will do, leaving only a slight seam 
in the bark. If the tree be very much decayed, do not cut away all 
the dead wood at once, which would weaken the tree too much, if 
