490 THE VINEYARD. [Sept. 
The liquor which first runs from the grapes without any other 
violence than the weight of the press, is called, le vin de gout, and 
is fine, thin, and lively; of a pleasant flavour and relish, appears 
sparkling in the glass, but has not body enough to keep a long time 
without being mixed; but when incorporated with that obtained 
from the first, second, and third cuttings, it makes then, what is 
called the best Champaign. 
The different pressings being mixed as you think proper, should be 
immediately put into clean casks or hogsheads, placed in a warm 
room or dry cellar, and filled to within two inches of the bungholes, 
which should be covered with pieces of cloth, laid loosely on to pre- 
vent dirt from falling into the liquor. 
It is to be observed that the finest wines ferment the soonest, the 
rest in proportion to their goodness. The first cask that ferments, 
take some of the froth which works therefrom, and put a little of it 
into those casks which are backward in fermenting, which will great- 
ly help their working. 
The fermentation may continue for eight, ten, or twelve days, or 
some time longer, according to the season, or quality of the Must, 
but at whatever time you perceive it to cease, which you will see by 
the froth not rising as before, fill your casks within about an inch or 
or two of the top and bung them up tight, at the same time a small 
vent-hole to carry off what may be thrown up by the fermentation's 
not being quite ceased. 
Continue to fill up your casks every three or four days, as before, 
until the fermentation completely ceases, lest the foulness which 
should work through the vent-holes, sink down for want of passage 
and foul the wines. When all appearance of fermentation is over 
fill the casks and stop the vent holes; however, open the latter 
occasionally whilst there is any chance of the liquor continuing to 
work. Observation and discretion will best guide on these occa- 
sions. 
About the middle of December, or so soon as the wines have 
settled and become clear, draw them off into new, well bound casks, 
previously well impregnated with salt and water, to extract the in- 
jurious bitterness of the wood; after which, rinse the casks with fair 
water, and an infusion of peach leaves or flowers, fill them quite 
full and bung them as tight as possible. Repeat this racking off in 
February, and likewise in the latter end of March; after which it 
may remain so till bottled, disposed of, or used. 
You must be particularly careful in racking off the wine, to draw 
it as clear as possible from the lees, which will render it brisk, 
lively, and sparkling in the glass; while the contrary, produces a 
muddy dreg, or sediment, which makes the wine thick, dull, and 
sometimes ropy; and besides, when drawn off foul, principle's capa- 
ble of maintaining fermentation would be introduced into the hogs- 
head, which would be productive of the decomposition of the saccha- 
rine part, and consequently, deprive the wine of its sweetness. 
The lees after the wine is racked off, may be distilled for brandy, 
and also the cakes of pulp and skins, after being pressed and then pro= 
perly fermented. 
