14 
THE AUSTRALIAN BEEKEEPERS’ JOURNAL. 
•coming down to the bottom of the hive. If | 
the combs in such a hive are not too black or 
old, it can be pirrchased, especially if it had 
swarmed the previous season. This hive can 
be kept for supplying swarms, or the bees can ' 
be driven and the combs transferred to a 
frame-hive in the manner to be explained later. 
6. If the purchase of a frame hive has been 
decided upon, the same observations should 
be made while the beekeeper is taking out the 
•combs and examining the hive. If the operator 
is a skilful one, and his movements are care- 
fully watched by the beginner, this will be as 
good as a lesson for him. 
7. Make up your mind to he guided by the 
instructions given for at least two years, u ith 
what help can be obtained from the expert or 
a friend, and only after that try experiments. 
DESIRABLE POINTS WHICH SHOULD 
BE COMBINED IN THE MODERN 
BEEHITE. 
By Henry Alley. 
From American Agriculturist, Jan. 1, 1887- 
1. The brood-nest should contain, according 
to the best authority, and results of actual test, 
about K00 cubic inches. 
2. The frames should be so constructed that 
the combs can be easily and quickly removed 
without killing or crushing any bees. 
3. The brood-nest as well as the frames 
should be invertible, and the latter so con- 
structed, that they may be reversed singly or 
in body. It often happens that, in handling, 
a comb will crack off at or near the top bar. 
If the frame can be inverted the bees will soon 
repair the damage. 
4. The hive should bo supplied with one or 
more division boards, or dummies, so that in 
case it is desirable to shut off the queen from 
any number of combs, or to close the colony 
down to a “one” frame, it may be done with- 
out much trouble. It is important to have 
the parts so arranged that all munipulation 
may be easily executed. A hive full of open 
joints, or those that are too close, or one that 
requires much prying to open and pounding to 
put it together is a nuisance in any apiary. 
5. A hive should be so constructed that it 
will winter a colony of bees safely on the sum- 
mer stand, and be so light that it will not re- 
quire the aid of several persons to carry into 
the bee-house or cellar. A hive that is three 
or four feet square, and is so large that it can- 
not be lifted by one person, does not come up 
to the requirements of modern bee culture. 
In case it is desirable to winter out of doors, 
the hive should be made so that it may be 
readily packed, and the packing as readily re- 
moved when necessary. 
6. A hive should be so made that the surplus 
storage will admit of from one case of .sect ion 
to an unlimited number. The experience of 
the past season has demonstrated one fact to 
us, namely : that four racks, of 24 one-pound 
sections each, may be used on a hive at one 
time, and to the best advantage. 
7. A hive should not have over eight brood- 
frames about the same size as are used in the 
Standard Langstroth . In this opinion we are 
backed by a large number of the experienced 
and practical apiarists in the country ; in fact, 
no one claims that a large brood-nest is neces- 
sary in any case. 
8. A hive should be convenient and practical 
and well adapted for either extracted or comb 
honey. 
9. The most desirable hive is the one that 
requires the least amount of labor and lumber 
in its construction. Every part and piece 
should be gotten out with a circular saw, and 
no planing or jointing should be necessary 
after it is ready to nail. A hive should be so 
constructed that, when packed for winter, 
water cannot reach the packing. One not so 
made is worthless for wintering use, and not 
| as good as one not packed at all. All bee- 
I keepers know the importance of having the 
packing very dry and clean. 
10. A hive should be adapted to either a hot 
or cold climate. One to combine the last two 
points should have a large open space under 
the combs and frames, as such a space affords 
amjrle ventilation both summer and winter. 
Bees in a hive thus constructed will not “ lay 
out ” in any climate, provided the enl ranee is 
a large one. Nor will the combs melt down 
in summer, nor mould in winter. 
(Queries an£> IftepUes. 
Question 1. — I have had great difficulty with 
all my sections and shallow frames in my 
supers. ; in nearly every case they were so 
firmly fastened to the frames of the brood 
chamber beneath by wax and propolis, that I 
broke many sections, and tore off the bottom 
bars of the shallow super frames in removing 
them. Can you, Mr. Editor, enlighten me, 
and perhaps a good many others, on the best 
way to prevent the bees fastening everything 
this way ; or, if it cannot be prevented, what 
is the best way to separate the sections and 
frames from the frames below ? 
H. J. B., Gippsland. 
Question 2. — Can the extractor be used for 
! extracting honey out of combs cut out of box 
hives, and will any sized piece of honeycomb 
go into the extractor f How much does an 
extractor cost ? Honeydew. 
Question 3. — Please tell me, Mr. Editor, if I 
can make a frame hive out of a gin-case, or 
| any packing case about the same size ? And 
I shall be very thankful if you will give some 
J notion of how to do it, in your answering 
columns. 
J S., Upper Yarra. 
