TllK AUSTRALIAN BEEKEEPERS’ JOURNAL. 
155 
We now return to the old hive, which is 
taken into honey house, queen cells cut out, 
honey extracted, and the brood given to stocks 
not overflowing with bees, to nucleus, or to 
artificial increase (if we wish such) or still 
better, held over till next day and a swarm 
hived on them and treated the same as was 
the one the day before, as regards supers, etc , 
and so on to the end of the season ; when we 
find we have had half a dozen swarms, and 
yet only our one hundred stocks in the yard 
in the fall, the original number in the Spring, 
following up this method during the season, 
an extra yield of comb honey can be secured, 
fully as much, I believe, as of extracted. 
After July 10, the supers can be contracted to 
the close of the season, leaving few unfinished 
sections to carry over. These latter can be 
exrracted and combs kept for the next year. 
Should I wish increase I should manage my 
apiary as above until after clover and bass- 
wood bloom, then divide and let them fill up 
on fall flowers. 
(number two.) 
John H. Rupert. 
In preventing increase it is not necessary to 
prevent swarming ; in fact, in working for 
comb-honey, I piefer to have the bees swarm, 
as I think they work better after the swarming 
impulse is satisfied. When the time comes for 
putting on the sections look the hive over 
carefully, cut out all the queen-cells, put on 
the supers and let them alone. If they go to 
work they will soon need more room. As soon 
as the first sections are finished take them off 
and replace with empty ones. With young 
queens this method will often prevent swarm- 
ing, but when you put on the supers if they 
have made preparation for swarming let them 
swarm ; do not cut out cells and fuss with 
them for they will not work while they are 
thinking about swarming. Have your new 
hive ready and as far as convenient from the 
old stand. As soon as the swarm issues, open 
the parent hive and remove all the combs but 
one to the new stand, bees and all, but be sure 
that you have removed every queen cell. Put in 
frames of foundation to fill the hive; take 
the super from the old hive and put it on the 
new one. By this time, the swarm will be 
settled in your liiving-box. Now carry them 
to the new hive and run them in, as you now 
have all the bees and brood of the old swarm 
(except the one comb left at the old stand and 
the bees that are out in the fields) ; the latter 
will work with all the energy of a new swarm. 
Be sure and put on the super before hiving 
the swarm and the bees will go into it with a 
rush and stay there. I never use any honey- 
board and am not troubled with the queen in 
the sections. I use the I/, frame. If I used 
small frames and ten or twelve in a hive, I 
would leave two frames in the old hive 
instead of one. If they should Bwarm again 
in the course of two or three weeks treat them 
as before ; if they persist in swarming super- 
sede the queen. As to the frame of brood left 
in the old hive, leave it alone till you have 
bees enough to fill a hive ; then unite the 
colony at sundown, remove the empty hives, 
put on the super and the bees will go to work 
promptly. With this plan, you will have 
only one new swarm out from eight or ten old 
ones, and still have them in the best condition 
for storing surplus. I think they work with 
greater energy than when they are put back 
on the old stand. 
(number three.) 
Charles Solveson. 
In working for extracted honey, the preven- 
tion of increase is easily accomplished by a 
judicious management in tiering up and 
extracting. But when we come to the produc- 
tion of comb honey, no system of management 
has as yet succeded in absolutely preventing 
increase. There are, however, different 
methods of manipulation that tend to decrease 
; swarming ; but why try to entirely prevent 
swarming ? Prevent it as far as is consistent 
with the largest amount of nice comb honey 
and then make use of the swarms a la 
Hutchinson and double up in the fall. 
Of the different methods tending to prevent 
swarming, I will offer the following as being 
with me the most successful. 
I use Heddon’s sectional hive, but my 
system of management can be varied to suit 
the workings of any hive. We will imagine 
white clover in full bloom and a good colony 
of bees occupying two sections of the Heddon 
hive, with honey-board and one section case 
on, the latter being about half full of honey ; 
now lift off the section case and one of the 
brood-cases, and from the case now remaining 
take four of the frames having the least 
amount of brood, crowding two to each side of 
the hive of the four remaining, and in the 
centre place four frames haviDg a foundation 
starter half-an-inch wide, re-adjust your hive, 
and in about three days they will be ready 
for another case of sections, and as soon as 
the four frames below become filled with comb 
! cut it out with the exception of half-an-inch 
for a starter, and replace them, making use of 
the comb removed to fill your section*. Thus 
by a judicious tiering of section-cases and the 
removal of the comb in the four above-men- 
tioned frames when about three-foui tbs full, 
not more than 12 per cent, will swarm. 
The four frames of brood and honey first 
removed can be tiered up on a few colonies, 
and will be filled with nice stores for Winter. 
THE BEE LOUSE OK QUEEN BEE 
TICK. 
From " The Honey Bee” in the Queenslander, 
we gather the following : — 
“ We were sorry to be informed last week 
that the bee louse or queen bee tick has un- 
