THE AUSTRALIAN BEEKEEPERS’ JOURNAL. 
109 
pied by a nectar cavity, there will be a tendency 
towards distortion of the cell walls, extreme 
tension produces rupture, and we thus by one 
means get exposed nectar. Irritation by the 
tongue and maxilla) of insects is doubtless 
another method of getting at the same result 
when we remember that the sap in the cells is at 
such a tension that the imbibition of water by 
them splits the wood of the surrounding stem. A 
further cause of the exudation of nectar is that 
‘ the constant chemical changes going on in the 
interior of the plant give rise to electrical con- 
ditions,’! and when this is accompanied by 
various electrical changes in the surrounding 
atmosphere, we can easily conjecture the rupture 
of myriads of torsioned cells, and the well-known 
resultant honey-glut ; especially is this the case 
when the air is humid, the reason being apparent 
on the surface. This humidity of the air brings 
us to what we consider the ordinary mode of | 
procedure by the plant in the production of 
nectar, a condensation of aqueous vapours by the 
plant-cells of the flower (and these are always 
colder than the surrounding air, except in case 
of nipping by frost), results in droplets of dew, 
which run and fuse together, like condensed 
steam on a window pane ; this collects in certain 
depressions called nectaries, when the osmotic 
action previously alluded to takes place, pro- 
ducing actual rupture of the cell, the contents of 
which mingle with the condensing moisture, 
giving us the true nectar, the veritable honey- 
dew. The waving, irritating motion given by j 
the wind, the rapid variations of the surround- 
ing moisture indicated by the barometer, a sud- 
den rise in temperature, are all conditions 
accompanying electrical disturbances, and there- 
fore are accompanying conditions to nectar 
secretion, or rather to nectar expulsion . — Brit bit 
Bar Journal. 
BEE CAN D if AND HOW TO MAKE IT. 
1. Use preferably a brass jelly or preserving 
pan, otherwise an enamelled tin or plain iron 
one. 2. Put in 10 lbs. white granulated sugar, 
at 2d. or 2Jd. per lb., 2 pints (imperial) of eold 
wafer, and half a tea spoonful of cream of 
tartar. 3. Sot on or hang over a brisk fire, and 
stir gently now and then until the sugar is all 
melted. This should require about fifteen 
minutes. 4. Almost immediately afterwards 
the whole will reach the boiling point, at first 
throwing up a deal of froth. The tire may be 
moderated or the pan withdrawn a little at this 
stage, when the foaming boil will settle down 
to a clear crackling one. This boiling should 
only occupy about two minutes. 5. Now try a 
drop-let fall on a cold surface, withdrawing 
the pan from the fire in the meantime. If the 
drop at once begins to set, so that in a few 
seconds it will draw out as a thread when 
touched with the finger, the mass is cooked 
enough. If not, boil a few seconds longer and 
try again. 6. Remove the pan from the fire 
and set it in a trough of cold water. It may be 
+ MeNab. 
left there for a few minutes while the moulds 
(flat or soup plates will do) are being set ready, 
each with a thin sheet of paper, rather larger 
than the mould laid in. Returning to the pan, 
commence and continue to stir briskly until the 
mass begins first to get dim in colour from inci- 
pient granulation, and then to thicken to the 
consistency of thin porridge. Then pour into 
the moulds, warming any remainder slightly to 
get it to leave the pan. This cooling and stirring 
process should take about fifteen minutes more. 
7. Thus in about thirty-two minutes we finish 
the whole process, with the result that we have 
12 lbs. candy from 10 lbs. sugar. The cakes 
should set within an hour so as to be safely 
turned out of the moulds. When quite cold, 
they should still be soft enough to be easily 
scratched into with finger-nail, and to melt in 
the mouth with a soft grain. 8. Invert them 
over the cluster of bees, with the paper left on, 
and cover up warmly. This may be done while 
they are still somewhat warm. — W.R . — Brit bit 
Bee Journal. 
INCREASE, OTHERWISE THAN BY 
NATURAL SWARMING. 
l'RIEND DOOLITTLE TELLS US HOW TO MANAGE IT 
A subscriber for Gleanings says he cannot stay 
at home and care for the swarms which may 
issue from the 30 colonies of bees which he has, 
and wishes me to tell him how he can manage 
next season so as to increase his bees and still 
have them do good work in making comb honey. 
After trying nearly every plan of artificial increase 
which has ever been given, I am satisfied that none 
of them will give as good results as will natural 
swarming ; but where one is situated as is the 
writer of the above, of course a substitute for the 
good old way will have to be resorted to. Knowing 
that there were times when increase other than 
natural swarming would be very desirable, I kept 
a record of all my experiments while trying the 
various plans of making swarms, as given at 
different times to the public, and, according to my 
views, the two following come the nearest to 
nature's way of any now before the world. The 
first is a plan which was adopted by Elisha Gallup, 
and given to the world some twenty or more years 
ago, while the latter plan is made up out of 
different hints I picked up here and there. The 
Gallup plan I have practiced quite extensively fer 
years, while the other I use almost altogether at 
the present lime. All the particular difference 
there is in the two plans is that, with the latter, 
a new queen is given to the swarm, leaving the old 
one to continue to do duty in the old hive ; while 
with the former the old queen goes with the swarm 
the same as she docs in natural swarming, thus 
leaving the bees to rear a queen of their own. By 
giving each part a laying queen, great gain is 
made ; still the Gallup plan is a good one where 
one cannot rear the queens before he makes the 
swarms or feels too poor to buy them. None of 
