April, 1919 
FOREST AND STREAM 
159 
joints along the edge of the planks, run- 
ning lengthways are covered with a short 
piece of rib cut just the right length to 
fit lightly between the ribs. This is the 
^‘batten” and it is from this construc- 
tion that the canoe gets its name “rib 
and batten.” The first wooden canoes 
■except “dug outs” or “birch barks” that 
were made were constructed in this man- 
ner. For this innovation in canoe build- 
ing the credit must be given to Mr. John 
Stephenson for, as far as is known, he 
huilt the first “board” canoe over fifty 
years ago. This was in Canada and it 
was from this that the various factories 
at present operating in that country got 
their start. 
The “flush batten” or “inserted batten” 
i s something 
s im i 1 a r. In 
this the edges 
of the planks 
are grooved out 
on the inner 
side or “half 
•checked” and 
in this groove 
is laid a small 
hardwood strip 
or batten about 
% by %-inch. 
This covers the 
joint instead 
of the heavier 
batten used in 
the “rib and batten” canoe. It makes 
a very neat canoe, but it is hardly as 
strong as the other and the ribs are 
usually placed four inches apart instead 
of six. A canoe constructed in this way 
will be about three pounds lighter than 
a “rib and batten” canoe of the same 
size. 
Another variation in this method is 
the “metallic joint” canoe. In this a 
brass or copper strip with the edges bent 
at right angles about one-eighth of an 
inch is used instead of the “flush bat- 
ten.” The turned edge is sunk into the 
planking and holds the planks together. 
The appearance is much the same as 
that of the flush-batten canoe. 
The “longitudinal strip” canoe is a 
somewhat different construction. The 
ribs are lighter than in the “rib and bat- 
ten” canoes. They are usually %" wide 
and half round. They are bent over a 
mould or form in the same way, but the 
planking is made up of narrow strips. 
These strips, usually cedar, are one- 
quarter inch thick and about one and 
three-quarter inches wide. The edges 
The flush batten construction makes a 
very light and attractive canoe, but it 
lacks the strength of the rib and batten 
are half checked making what is known 
as a ship-lap joint. The first strip is 
laid along the keel then each strip is 
fitted tightly against the next. The 
strips are tapered lengthways so that 
they come out right at the gunwale. 
The ribs are usually 2%" from centre 
to centre so that no protection is re- 
quired over the joints along the edge of 
the planking, the ship lap being sufficient. 
This construction results in a very strong 
yet light canoe and one advantage is that 
the strips being narrow are not affected 
by shrinkage or swelling — i. e., there is 
not enough change in the size of the 
strips by shrinkage or swelling to open 
the joint, if it is properly made. 
A nother method of all-wood con- 
struction is the “cedar rib.” In 
this canoe the “ribs” really form 
the planking. Cedar is the only material 
used for this construction and is about 
the only wood that is suitable. The 
planking is composed of narrow strips, 
%xl%". They are machined very ac- 
curately with a small tongue and groove 
joint, as used on flooring but of course 
much smaller. These pieces are steamed 
and bent over a form and run from gun- 
wale to gunwale in one piece. They are 
pulled up tight, the tongue into the groove 
and dried right on the form. They are 
tightened up a little bit every day. It 
takes about two weeks in slow heat to 
get all the moisture caused by steam- 
ing, out of the planking. When this 
shell is dry the gunwales are put on, 
also the inside bilge strips and these 
prevent the canoe from coming apart. 
There are no ribs in this canoe. It is 
the principle of the “inverted arch” 
adopted for canoe construction and the 
result is the lightest canoe made by either 
all wood or canvas covered construction. 
This lightness does not affect its strength 
and as far as durability goes there is 
nothing better. Canoes of this type 
made over thirty-five years ago are still 
in use and in first class condition. The 
construction, of course, requires consid- 
erable time and the most experienced 
workmanship. There is a lot of work 
on one of these canoes, consequently they 
cannot be offered for sale at the same 
price as other canoes. This to some ex- 
tent affects the sale of them. Another 
thing that affects the output of this style 
of canoe is the length of time that they 
last. A man has to live a long time 
and be an ardent canoeist to wear out 
a canoe constructed by this method. 
On all. these wooden canoes the method 
of putting on the decks, gunwales, 
thwarts, etc., is pretty much the same. 
The gunwales as a rule are of oak, full 
length and measuring %" by IV 2 ", 
moulded to a special shape. The stems 
and “snouts” or outside stems are oak, 
walnut or mahogany. The decks are 
usually butternut or mahogany. The 
decks on the wooden canoes are longer 
than those usually used on canvas cov- 
ered canoes. The usual length is twenty 
inches. A small coaming is put around 
the inner edge of the deck to prevent 
the water from running into the canoe. 
The thwarts, usually three in number, 
are oak or mahogany and sometimes 
when a V e r y 
light canoe is 
required 
spruce is used. 
Very often a 
cane seat is 
put in at the 
stern instead 
of the thwart. 
On painted 
canoes iron 
nails are used 
and on var- 
nished canoes, 
finished in na- 
tural color, 
copper nails 
are used. The nails are driven in from 
the outside and clenched on the ribs. 
It is necessary to bore first for each nail 
to prevent the rib from splitting. When 
you consider that there are from 2,000 
to 3,000 small nails it will give you some 
idea of the amount of work that has to 
be put on these small boats and bear in 
mind that it is all hand work too. 
T he other method of canoe construc- 
tion known as “canvas covered” is 
very well known to all canoeists as 
practically all the canoes made in the 
United States and quite a few of these 
made in Canada, are of that construc- 
tion. First, a light shell is made. The 
ribs used are cedar, usually 5/16" or %" 
thick and from two inches to two and a 
half inches wide. These are bent over 
a form and the forms are covered with 
metal sheeting so that when the tacks 
are driven through the planking they 
clench on the rib. The planking is also 
cedar, about %" thick and in strips from 
3" to 4" wide. The joints are fitted closely 
but the shell itself is not watertight. 
(continued on page 190) 
The ever-popular canvas-covered canoe 
