Drill two holes with the gimlet about 
an inch away from the cut as shown in 
Fig. III. 
Now procure some old lead and melt 
It up so that it can be run into the cuts 
in the keels, bringing the lead even with 
the outside of the keel. Then, taking 
your knife carve your initials on the side 
of the keel and screw a brass eye into the 
end of the keel to hold the anchor*and we 
are ready to assemble our ducks. 
Procure twelve brass screws about one- 
half Inch thicker than your cork and after 
boring the holes in the right places with 
the gimlet, drive the screw through the 
cork from the bottom side and be careful 
to drill out the screw holes in the necks 
BO they wont split, screw the heads fast 
to the body as in Fig. IV. 
With the gimlet bore the holes for the 
copper wire through the bodies at the 
proper place to meet the holes in the keel 
and using old telephone wire, stripped 
of the insulation, fasten the keels to the 
body as in Fig IV. 
Your duck is now completely assembled 
and should resemble closely the living 
bird in shape. 
Painting comes next and here the indi- 
vidual taste of the gunner must come in. 
My own method is to paint eight males 
and four females out of the dozen, but 
some differ. 
I make the black and white marking of 
the male broadbill and the brownish red 
and white markings of the female. The 
bills of both sexes are painted a bluish 
Fig III. 
gray and I put some rough splashes of 
white on the back of the male birds for 
the grayish marking of the live bird of 
that sex. | 
Attach to each stool a six foot length 
of cord with a weight of about six ounces 
to hold your stool in its place in the flock 
when jmu are hunting. I used lead sink- 
ers but a brick split in half serves ad- 
mirably if you are not too particular. 
The work is now completed and all you 
have before you is the thorough enjoy- 
ment of knowing ihat if you don’t get 
your share of ducks in the future it will 
be the fault of the man who points the 
gun. 
Take your rig the first chance you get 
and go to that favorite point of yours 
and as the day is breaking place your 
stool twenty-five yards off shore and be 
careful not to shoot your stool because 
they will look very natural if you fol- 
low the above directions. 
Go to it, old timer, and the youngster, 
as well, and let’s create some new decoys 
this winter so that next year the birds, 
being more plentiful because of the Fed- 
eral Law we will get glorious days on the 
rivers, lakes and marshes. 
A HAND POWER ROW BOAT 
T here is untold pleasure in gliding 
about in a hand-power row boat, 
taking it easy and enjoying the 
scenery, fishing or sociabilities on a 
placid lake or cove at twilight, or the 
pleasure extends itself throughout the 
full day. This idea was born of love for 
the open and at the same time it is 
healthy and a novelty. 
The rear seat may be fitted with the top 
half of a strong arm chair and cut out 
so as not to interfere with the tiller. A 
cane seat is advisable as it is strong and 
tough and permits of a pillow, or cushion 
being placed in the seat for the further 
comfort of the boatman. It is especially 
adapted to quietly nosing in here and 
there with your rod and line and with the 
axles, chain, and crank well greased, 
there is practically no noises as the boat 
approaches. 
The chain and sprocket wheel are out- 
side the gunwhale^ so as not to soil hands 
or clothes with oil. At night it is well to 
throw a piece of canvas over the chain 
and sprockets as the rain or dampness 
rusts the chain. Use an application of 
good heavy automobile grease and it will 
stick for a long while 
N OW, as to building the power boat, 
proceed as follows: Use a regula-' 
tion, good condition row boat, 
thoroughly clean, scrape and overhaul it 
and make it tight and sound for the sea- 
son. Then measure the outside or rear 
(or stern) and let this figure govern the 
size of the paddle wheel frame. 
This frame is made of pieces of ordi- 
nary flat iron procurable, cut, bent and 
drilled at any local blacksmith for about 
one dollar. The frame is made of 3/16" 
X 1 " or 1%" iron and connecting bolt or 
rivet holes should be 14"- Make 2 pieces 
for extreme bottom, 2 for middle or shaft 
hangers, and 2 for braces which come 
down from top edge of seat to outside 
edge and bolt in place. Use heavy gal- 
vanized or brass screws in attaching irons 
to wood and if bolts are used In frame 
construction instead of rivets, provide 
them with lock washers. Make 2 more 
pieces, one for top rear and the other for 
bottom rear of the frame which then 
makes a box-like enclosure Inside of 
which the paddle wheel revolves. To the 
top and bottom rear pieces drill hole 
in each in center, for holding the rudder. 
The best way to go about the construction 
is to block the boat up about 14" from the 
ground near the water edge and In such 
a position that the boat can bo skidded 
sideways or endways into the water with- 
out fear of harming or bending the iron 
frame, although it will stand some hard 
knocks without distortion, due to Its novel 
bracing. Make the rudder of heavy gal- 
vanized sheet iron, the same as is procur- 
able at any plumber’s shop; cut to shape 
and rivet to it at bottom and offset hook 
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