Termi 
, Four l>ollnr« a Year. 
Ten CeuiM u Col>j. 
NEW YORK, THURSDAY, MARCH 28, 1878. 
Volume 10.— No. 8. 1 
o. Ill Fulton d. Y. 
Fir Forest and Stream ana Rod and Gun. 
c^nraaning. 
FBOM KEY WEST TO CEDAR KEYS. 
I BECAME tired of commanding the household brigade, 
would not give a farthing for a sail on a river or placid 
lake, and as I loDged for a 9niff of salt air and life, a l fresco, 
I determined on a cruise from Key West to Cedar Keys. 
As the success and comfort of a boat cruise depends to a 
great extent upon the boat and outfit, I am disposed to give 
others the benefit of my experience. I required a boat that 
was transportable by steamer and railroad ; one that would 
sail in a heavy dew (that i9 to say when the dew was about 
ten inches deep on the marine meadows), a boat that would 
row and pole easily ; and as I proposed taking wind and 
water as I found it, I deemed it necessary to provide myself 
with a staunch, able and sea-worthy boat. I made a model 
and A. G. Chappell, of this city, constructed a craft to meet my 
requirements — and 1 may remark th it if any of your readers 
intend visiting Florida and require boat9 of any description, 
that I can recommend Mr. A. G. Chappell as a first-class 
builder and a reliable man. My boat was named the Doni. 
She is sixteen feet long, six feet beam ; clean entrance and 
run ; somewhat flat on floor and rather wall-sided midshi ps— 
in other words she possesses good bearings. Having sub- 
jected her to the most severe tests, I cannot improve on the 
model. Deck sheer from stem to stern six inches ; convexity 
of deck midships from side to side four inches. At forward 
S art of cockpit she is eighteen inches between carlines and 
oor. To protect the cockpit in sea way, I use three move- 
able bracketted pieces of wood. The centre one fitting on on 
the centre of the forward combing ; the others on the side 
comings, one foot from the afterpart of the cockpit. The 
after pieces have an inch hole in each, and the centre one 
terminates in a rounded end, which fits into the holes of the 
side peices. By this arrangement I secure a substantial frame 
elevated at the after part and centre one foot above the com- 
bing. Over this frame I place a canvas tarpaulin, which is 
fastened to each side of the boat, and through the medium of 
which I dispense with the necessity of shipping seas. I pro- 
vided a 10-ounce duck tarpaulin twelve feet long, which was 
thrown over the boom at nights and fastened on each side of 
the boat ; the front of the tent was closed with two half aprons 
attached to each side, and fastened in the centre and "to 
screw eyes in the deck. When my tent was in position and 
too n in place supported by truss and throat halliards, I had 
six feet of room between boom and floor of cockpit. 
In the after part of the boat under deck is a locker measur- 
ing two feet fore and aft. In front of this was a moveable 
box arrangement, furnishing a locker and seat on each side, 
as high as under surface of deck ; in the centre was a de- 
pressed portion to enable me to reach after-locker. The after- 
lotjeer furnished stowage for boat compass, ammunition, 
clothing and other plunder. The box on one side received 
pots and pans, the other, with central portion, enabled me to 
carry firewood for two days’ consumption. On one side of 
the ccckpit under the deck I had a rack for gun and rifle, and 
on opposite side a similar arrangement for rods and maps. 
Below and on face of racks I fastened boards eight inches 
wide, inside of which was stowage for many things. I 
tacked a width of canvas to the inner face of the combing on 
c ich side forming curtains which protected contents from rain 
or spray. 
Cruising among mangrove islandaand marshy places, makes 
it difficult at times to find a suitable camping place, and I 
always carry a stove, and cook and sleep on my boat. I 
have a two-hole /Etna stove, and carry a light wooden box in 
which it fits snugly. When not in use the box is placed abaft 
the trunk, furnishing a seat, and if required, moveable bal- 
last. When wanted for cooking, the lid of the box is placed 
on the after part of the boat, and the stove on it. The box 
furnished stowage for stove, pipe, frying-paD, etc. 
In addition to the impedimenta mentioned I carried a bar 
rel of pilot bread packed in starch boxes, three five gallon keg9 
for fresh water ; 10 pounds breakfast bacon; 18 pounds lard, 
6 pounds ground coffee in tin box, 8 pounds sugar, G cans con- 
densed milk, half bushel Irish potatoes, 1 peck onioDS, 1 gallon 
of kerosene oil in bottles (stowed under floor), salt, pepper, 
matches, pots, plates, cups, knives, ax, shovel, pail, boat 
compass, tabacco, nails, screws, tacks, saw, palm, needles, 
gimblct, hammer, oy9tor knife, charts, tackle, ammunition, 
mattress, blankets, pillow, and oiher plunder. By economiz- 
ing space and careful etowage I baa ample room to work 
my boat. When my canvas tent was erected I would stow 
stove-box and water-kegs on deck, which would give me a 
clear cock pit and two feet under deck on each side of the 
trunk. I occupied the space to the right of the central line, 
and my fifteenth amendment the other side. In addition, I car- 
ried a grains, crab-net and oars on deck, and a sixteen-foot light 
pushing pole lashed under the boom. I have been somewhat 
minute with reference to fit-out and stowage, for when a party 
range beyond the reach of stores and mechanics they must be 
prepared for an emergency. In many places a light spruce 
pushing pole will be found very useful. 
I left Jacksonville on Thursday, the 29lh of October, by 
the lumber train, and reached Baldwin at 3 i\ m. Thursday 
morning I was en route for Cedar Keys by the Fernandina 
and Cedar Keys Railroad. Reached Cedar Keys at G p. m., 
and on arrival proceeded to the Island House, kept by Dr. 
Macllvaine, and to others I will say, go aod do likewise. The 
Doctor has made many improvements in the house, and 
guests will be pleased with the table. 
Friday morning I unloaded the Doni and placed her on the 
deck of the steamer Cochrane, bound for Key West. Miller 
aud Henderson and Capt. James McKay, of Tampa, have 
placed on the route -between Cedar Keys and Key West two 
staunch steamships, the T. J. Cochrane and the Lizzie Hen- 
derson. These vessels are new, staunch aud sea-worthy, have 
ample power, and are comfortably fitted up for passengers. 
The officers are experienced ou the coast, and are gentlemanly 
and obliging. These vessels leave Cedar Keys on Tuesdays 
and Fridays at ‘Lf. M. To Florida visitors who wish to ex- 
tend their trip beyond the beaten track, and enjoy the balmy 
air of and a short voyage on the Gulf we would say take a 
trip on the Cochrane or Henderson to Key West and return. 
I left Cedar Keys on Friday at 4 r. m., and reached Key 
Weston Sunday at 9 a. m. Key West is a pleasant city of 
about 12,000 inhabitants. The principal occupations of the 
residents are cigar making, fishing and spoDging. The citi- 
zens are remarkable for their hospitality and attention to 
strangers. The climate during the winter months is pleasant, 
and frost is unknown. There is one large and airy hotel, 
where fair food and accommodations can be obtained for $3 
per day or §00 per month. We were informed that several 
excellent private boarding-houses exist, where good accom- 
modations can be obtained at from $10 to $15 per week. I 
arrived at the conclusion that prices for everything ranged 
higher than in Jacksonville. The gunuist will find no use for 
his weapon in the neighborhood, and the piscator will be 
forced to visit the reefs to enjoy his favorite sport. On my 
arrival I met several old acquaintances and made many new 
ones, and all endeavored to make my brief stay of twenty -fuur 
hours as pleasant as possible. In my wanderings about town 
I noticed in many gardens cocoa nuts, sopodillas and other 
tropical fruits ; but, as an old Rosarian, I was charmed with 
an arched trellis twenty feet long and ten feet wide, covered 
with a large*plant of Mareschal Niull rose. The tips of its 
long and luxuriant shoots were clothed with blooms— such 
blooms as I never expected to see on my favorite rose. The 
external layer of petals wire mottled with pink, and the in- 
side ones were of the deepest yellow. I stood at the fence 
entranced with the beauty of the golden flowers which I 
coveted, and nothing but the fear of the lock-up prevented 
me from violating one of the commandments. In my wan- 
derings I noticed geraniums, pelargoniums, verbenas aud 
salvias in bloom; and the beautiful boreganrillea growing 
apparently uncared for, and covered with floral beauty. 
Monday morning found me moving at 4 a. m., and by 9 a m. 
the Doni was rigged, water kegs filled, plunder stowed, and the 
crew, consisting of “A1 Fresco "and Fifteenth Amendment 
Aaron, were under way for the main land sixty miles distant. 
At this point we cannot refrain from referring to the kindness 
extended to “ A1 Fresco” by Captain Philb ich, Dr Harris, 
the editor of the Key of the Gulf \ Captain Smart, and others of 
the good people of the beautiful island of Key West. The 
day was pleasant aud warm, the wind dead ahead. We left 
the westerly keys on the port hand, and at night anchored 
under the lee of Hurricane Key, twenty-five miles from start- 
ing point. With the exception of Becackiea channel, over the 
entire distance the water was shallow, varying from two to 
six feet. At many places bars will obstruct the movements of 
a boat, but by keeping a good lookout passes will lie discov- 
ered and no difficulty will be experienced in navigating a boat 
of light draft. At bedtime weather looked threatening, and I 
fdt fu my old barometric bones that I would have to fight an 
old-fashioned nor'-easter on the morrow. But, as I had 
weathered many such on many oceans, I turned in and slept 
as becometh a marooner. 
Tuesday I was up at 5 a. m., cooked breakfast, stowed 
plunder, and was ready to start at daylight. During the night 
wind had increased to a gale, with severe rain squalls ; but, 
as there appeared nothing very attractive about a mangrove 
island, I resolved upon attempting the passage over the Bay 
of Florida. Up anchor aud left the protection of the island; 
wind blowing a gale ; heavy sea with quantum suf of rain. 
Beat until 1 p. m. ; made about six miles, and as l was not 
disposed to spend the nigkt at sea with a gentleman of the 
colored persuasion, who knew nothing about sailing a boat, I 
put about and anchored under Spanish Key. 
Wednesday, repeated the dose of early rising ; wind blow- 
ing a gale; heavy rain squalls ; high, choppy sea; rapid tide 
running at right angles, with wind piling up the water irregu- 
larly aDd rendering the motions of a small boat anything but 
pleasant or enjoyable. Left anchorage at daylight and at- 
tempted to cross the bay; weather more threatening, squally 
with heavy rain ; every wave broke over the noble little craft, 
but she proved to be- able and sea- worthy. At 11a. m. I hud 
made about six miles against a head wind aud sea, and I 
deemed it be9t to beat a retreat, and came to anchor under 
Bay Honda Key, thirty miles from Cape Sable, my objective 
point. After coming to an anchor, I cooked dinner, and be- 
fore stowing stove, threw ashes and cinders overboard, and 
several cat-fish showed themselves on the surface to ascertain 
what was the matter. Taking the bint, I rigged pule and 
commenced tishiog. This species is more slender than those 
of northern waters ; the skin is very while and the fins long ; 
spines long, slender and barbed. I captured several before 
one came iu contact with tlio knuckle of index finger of right 
hand, and one of the spines entered about half an inch. 1 in- 
stantly removed the unpleasant appendage, aud an intense 
burning puin succeeded. In a very short time my hand com- 
menced swelling, and I suffered much from pain. Old Aaron 
had several plugs of knock-me down tobacco, and I resolved 
upon applying a sailor’s remedy. I carefully separated a 
number of the leaves from a plug, moistened them in sffit 
water, and applied to the hand. I passed a restless night in 
consequence of pain. Iu the morning my hand was swollen 
and stiff, and several days elapsed before the swelling disap- 
peared. As I write, two months after the reception of the in- 
jury, the knuckle is tender to the touch. From all I cun 
learn, they are more poisonous than their relations iu northern 
waters. Memo .— When you catch a Gulf cat-fish hit him on 
the head with a sliillelah before removing him from the 
hook. 
The Florida Keys extend from the Tortugas to the Miami 
river. They vary in size from small to very large islands. 
Some are covered with mangrove bushes, and others with 
pines and cabbage palms. Duriug severe hurricanes nearly all 
are subject to overflow. Under the mangroves at some of the 
islands suupper, grouper and large craw-fish can be captured . 
Under ordiuary circumstances, a cruise among these keys is 
pleasant. With the exception of Bay Honda channel, the 
water is Bhnllow, and by working to the northward and east- 
ward until lower Matacombe Key is reached no difficulty will 
be experienced in reaching the main land fifteen miles east of 
Cape Sable. By tukiug this course a harbor can be made at 
any time under one of the beys. An accurate survey has 
been made of this region by the government, and five large 
charts have been published, the expense of the set being 
$7.50. These charts show all the islunds, surfs, chanuels aud 
bars. My object was to reach Cape Sable by the shortest 
road, and I resolved not to take the longest way round. 
Thursday— Up early, breakfast cooked, and dishes polished 
with waste paper. From Bay Honda Kev to Cape Suble, 
thirty miles; gale still blowing, aod dead ahead, with heavy sea; 
occasional showers of rain ; no lee or protection unless I made 
for Sandy Key, eight milts to the west of my course : hand 
swollen and somewhat painful. Becoming annoyed at my 
back-track proceedings, I resolved upon making the muiulaud. 
Daylight saw the auchoron deck, and the Doni in Buy Honda 
cbaunel. The ball opeued aud dancing commenced. We 
lacked the music of a brass baud, but the whistling of the 
wind against the halliards supplied the woint, and the Doni 
danced a fandango. I shall refrain from miuutely describing 
the motions of the boat and crew, and how the brine was dis- 
tributed. After the channel was crossed, the wiud hauled 
more to the eastward, the rain ceased, aud Old Sol winked ut 
us occasionally. Sea was heavy, but we were at last enabled 
to lug a cruise to Cape Sable, under the lee of which we ar- 
rived at half-past one, thankful that the humpy surface of 
Bay Honda was in the rear. With a free sheet we bore to the 
northward, within a stone-throw of the shore. 
From the be 9 t information obtainable, ut a point abou 
twenty-two miles east of Cape Suble, and southwest of Key 
Largo, will be fouud the Hullalahachce River, which is re- 
ported us being navigable for small boats, and by which White 
Water Bay cun be reached at its easterly end. I found one 
party who had attempted to enter it, but the tide was low, aud 
bis boat grounded ou the mud lints This whole section is a 
terra incognito, and is worthy of the notice of boatists, and 
the time may come when Al Fresco will unravel the mystery 
that surrounds it. I have questioned many old coasters, fish- 
ermen aud spongers, regarding the lower portion of the penin- 
sula, aud I find that they are ignorant as regards every thing 
inside of the coast line. They are acquainted with the head- 
lands, a few islands and chaunels, but the rest is a blank. 
Correctly speaking, there are three capes— East, Middle 
and North Cape. At Eust Cape Sable a stake will be uoticed; 
twenty yards inland from this, an earthwork, the remains of 
Fort Foiukett, and fifty yards back of this a well with good 
water. About half u mile to the westwurd of the middle cape 
is a clump of about one dozen lurge trees, aud thirty yards 
from the beach a well of excellent water. If manners cannot 
find the wells, potable water cun be obtuined by digging a well 
two or three feet deep, in a low place a huudred or more yards 
from the beach. At one time a noble grove of royal palms 
existed in this locality, but all were destroyed by the hurricane 
of '74, One stump, about fifteen feet high, is still stunding us 
a sentinel over the departed glory of what was once a truly 
royal grove. The middle cape is easily distinguished by the 
existence of a small prairie (described by Vignollcs ^ as 
the “ Yamasee Old Field”), in the front a few 
bushes, and in the rear some cabbage pal ms. 
tion received, a lagoon exists within half a mile of the beacu, 
emntviDg into Cape Sable Creek. During the winter mon hs 
this is'a favorite resort for ducks, and the surrounding country 
s staked wUh deer and turkey. Unless the wind is from 
southward aud westward a luuding can be made on the beach, 
S there is no swell or undertow as on the Atlantic. About a 
Sonth before my visit Dr. Harris' men were proceeding from 
Rocere River to Key West, anil noticed a man on the cape 
JnEl siguSs. They took him on hoard, and found that he 
“ Dutchman, aod hud been three days without fool. It 
scerlained that he had purchased a yawl-boat at Ke 
was a 
was ascertained 
West, and hud started for Ccdur Keys, lie was caught in a 
gale, and boat was wrecked ou the Cape. He remarked that 
