For Forest and Stream. 
Raters of oithcin ^ichigatf. 
O N Monday, September 6th, 1874, your correspondent 
found himself at Cheboygan (about 2,000 people), 
situated on the north shore of the southern peninsula of 
Michigan, about sixteen miles south of the island of Macki- 
naw, from which it is separated by the straits of the same 
name. His affairs at Cheboygan having been satisfacto- 
rily adjusted, and having till Thursday morning to meet 
engagements at Grand Rapids, he gladly accepted the in- 
vitation of Mr. John McKay for an excursion through the 
chain of lakes extending southwesterly to Petoskey, on 
Little Traverse Bay. Behold us, then, say at 1:30 P. M. 
September 7th, embarked upon the staunch tug Eva Eng- 
lish, escorted by a deputation of good men and true from 
Cheboygan. We arc equipped with guns, trolling Hues, 
coffee pots and frying pans, and fully supplied with crea- 
ture comforts necessary for the journey. The passenger 
list shows the following names: — W. 8. Humphrey, attor- 
ney-at-law ; E. Nelson, of Nelson, Slralin & Co., lumber 
dealers and manufacturers; Samuel Leavitt, ditto; George 
Nelson, ditto; Mr. Spencer, mine host of the Benton 
House; W. IT. Flanaghan, tinsmith and sportsman; John 
McKay, contractor, all of Cheboygan, and your correspon- 
dent, with A. J. Rogers, captain; Thomas Reynolds, engi- 
neer, and Messrr. Niffln and Wheeler, "general utility,” 
make up the "crew.” 
Our course is laid down thus:— Down the Cheboygan 
River three miles to the west branch thereof; through the 
same two miles to Mullett Lake, and thence through far- 
ther iakes and connecting streams forming the "inside pas- 
sage" from Cheboygan to Little Traverse Bay. McKay 
and self propose to remain with our friends and the tug 
for as much of the journey ns her heavy draft will permit. 
When the bottom of the streams rises to the top we pro- 
pose to commit ourselves to the tender mercies of Indian 
guides and small boats. There is ample depth to all the 
lakes, but it is expected that the English will find bottom 
in the river or creek connecting Mullett and Burt lakes. 
We have been fortunate in finding at Cheboygan a couple 
of Indians bound for "Indian Village,” and one of them 
will act as guide from that point westward. We steam 
rapidly down the Cheboygan Through the slack water con- 
necting the extensive saw mills (of which there are several 
rn route) with the docks at the lake shore, where the lum- 
ber is transported to the lake vessels out into the open 
waters of the river, past the confluence of the west branch 
with the main channel, and so over the course already in- 
dicated. At the confluence we arc about ten miles from 
lake Cheboygan, the head of the main river. I am told 
that the Cheboygan Lake and river both afford the finest of 
mu8calonge as well as bass and pickerel fishing, but as we 
are upou the tug, traveling at good speed, we have no op- 
portunity to cast a line. As we proceed, our guides follow 
in their boat, towed by the tug. The party upon the latter 
divide the lime between shooting at ducks from the bow, 
playiug "yuker" in the little cabin, and firing early peaches 
and other edibles nt the guides in their boat at the farther 
end of the tow line. The latter sport is more satisfactory 
to all the parties than the former, although it must be con- 
fessed that the wild fowl have almost entire immunity, as 
the puffing of our steam pipes generally raises them at very 
long range, and the shooting, while it amuses us, don’t hurt 
them much. In this connection it maybe observed that 
by far the most successful shooting of the day was done 
with the rifle. Indeed, I found that the Cheboyganites are 
admirably skilled in the use of this arm. 
As we enter Mullett’s Lake, guns, etc., are laid aside, 
and we abandon ourselves to the contemplation of its beau- 
ties. An oblong sheet of water of say ten miles in length 
and five in width at the maximum ; its waters clear and 
deep, and the shores adorned with the greenest of forests, 
with here and there a bare space showing the site of a saw 
mill, or a clearing with cultivated|fields and primitive im- 
provements. This and the other waters over which your 
correspondent passed possessed a beauty far beyond the 
power of his pen to describe. From Mullett’s Lake we en- 
ter Portage River, and sail serenely on for about three 
miles, when our further progress is stayed by the increas- 
ing shallowness of the water. The while sandy bottom is 
clearly visible, and in a few moments our keel grates harsh- 
ly upon it. The captain makes gallant efforts to force her 
over the bar; but the attempt fails. We prepare (McKay 
and seff) to resign ourselves to the small boats. McKay’s 
boat is therefore dropped astern of the larger and clumsier 
craft of our bretheru of the forest, and our stores are duly 
transferred to the same. With mutual good byes and good 
wishes for a prosperous voyage, we part from our friends 
on the tug, they to return home, we to push on through 
the Indian reservation to Little Traverse Bay. 
As we npproach the entrance to Burt’s Lake our (rolling 
lines arc thrown out, but the sun is already far down the 
horizon, and our spoons have lost their attractive glitter, so 
we take notliiug for our pains. We row stendily across 
Burt’s Lake, and at about 8 :30 P. M. reach "Indian Vil- 
lage," situated upon a point near its western extremity. 
Here we camp for the night in the cabin of our big guide. 
"Louis Sheboslon," the happy husband of three wives, and 
putative futher of thirty children. We are too hungry and 
tired to scrutinize our immediate surroundings very closely, 
and devour with a relish the potatoes and well-cooked 
pickerel set before us by our hostess. On entering Louis’ 
cabin we were surprised to hear the strains of a melodcon, 
one brave making frnntic efforts to "pull music out of 
his chist," os the sailor said when lie first saw a piano 
played, while several male companions formed an admiring 
circle around him. These simple people are all Roman 
Catholics, still rallying under the banner of the French 
Jesuits, planted upon these shores over 100 years ago, if tra- 
dition be true. In passing, it may be said that the Indians 
of the southern peninsula of Michigan have nttalued to 
somewhat the same degree of civilization as their white 
brethren, the "Loggers," employed in these forests, the 
advantage probably being in favor of the Indian, to the 
extent that when sober he is peaceable and honest. In fact., 
it would appear that whiskey is literally his evil spirit. 
Whiskey, or other kinds of fire water, only will he steal, 
and only under its influence, if at all, is lie quarrelsome. 
The advice given to your correspondent by his white com- 
rade on this trip may as well be repeated for the benefit of 
future travelers through this wilderness:— "Take care of 
the ‘bug juice,’ or they’ll steal it all, but have no fear for 
any other property.” 
At bedtime we were invited to repose upon a double bed 
in the large inner room of the cabin, aud inwardly praying 
for deliverance from bugs, fleas, and other vurrnints, are 
soon in the arms of Morpheus. At daylight wc arise, and 
after a cooling draught fresh from the spring, and a thor- 
ough enjoyment of the gorgeous beauty of a sunrise upon 
Burl’s Lake, we take to our boat and catch a fine pickerel 
for breakfast. But the clear light of day has oponed our 
eyes to many things which were obscured from our vision 
the previous night. Before eating, wc took occasion to 
visit the quaiut little Indian chapel und its buryingground, 
both having many rough decorations, evidently the handi- 
work of the Indians themselves. The crosses at the heads 
of the graves are adorned with wreaths and other offerings 
of curious form and workmanship, the material being 
mostly bright colored paper and rags, and rudely painted ' 
sticks. At 7:30 wc part from our friend Louis, and leave 
the village under the guidance of one boat, propelled by 
the strong arm of our Indian boy (John by nuinc), and 
within a few minutes strike the mouth of the little stream 
connecting Burl’s Lake and Crooked Lake, not, however, 
without gome searching for the channel, which Is almost 
completely obscured by reeds and long grasses. There is 
enough water here, however, to float a very much heavier 
craft than ours; in fact, a large boat with a stronger mo- 
tive power could readily have passed over and beaten down 
the rushes which so seriously obstructed our progress. 
Presently we have fairly entered the creek and the fishing 
begins. We are making for the railway train, to leave Pe- 
toskey at 8:20 P. M. , und row without regard to the trolling, 
"hu ll is, nevertheless, good, as the fish— both bQU and 
pickerel— prove exceedingly abundant. The current is 
rather strong, but our Indian is a perfect little steam on 
ginc, and pulls on almost without intermission till 10:30 
A. M., when we camp, and McKay, .ns chief cook, pro- 
pares our second break lust, Bread mul butti i, sweet pork 
and fresh fish, washed down by a few cups of tea, revive 
us greatly, and wo presently resume our journey, not, how- 
ever, until we have been overtaken by a canoe which is 
commanded by our hostess of the night before, and manned 
by two of her stout sons, with several "little Indian hoys" 
and girls as passengers. They are bound for Little fra 
verse Bay, and so we have them near at hand for the re- 
mainder of the day. I can see that anclont dame now, hit- 
ting in her canoe, a picture of oleaginous content, made 
thrice happy by the gift of the drippings from our fried 
pork. The finest of fish they have id ways in abundance, 
but salt pork is esteemed a rare delicacy by these Indians. 
The day wears on, and our Indian pulls on, with occa- 
sional help from his passengers. As wo pass through tho 
narrow stream, now overshadowed by forest trees, and 
again bordered ouly by marshy shores, covered with wild 
rice aud tidl rushes, we occasionally raise a wood duck, 
and now and then a mallard or two. Towards two P. M. 
we enter Crooked Lake; truly a well deserved name, but 
a respectable sheet of water notwithstanding. While tho 
eastern half is too shallow for fishing, the abundance of 
rice affords on excellent feeding ground for wild ducks of 
the several varieties tobo found lnthoao latitude at this 
season, and we see grout numbers of them. About mid- 
way in the lake, as wo pass from oust to west, tho waters 
suddenly deepen— showing as great a depth, probably, uu 
any of the lakes wo have passed over — wo again throw out 
our trolling lines, and catch here the “big black bass" of 
the day. At five I*. M., having reached the farther, or 
western shore of Crooked Lake, within about seven miles 
of Petoskey, we again camp and refresh the inner man. 
From this point wo propose working through a small stream 
to Round Lake, tho western shore of which is within three 
quarters of a mile of Little Traverse Bay, to tho waters of 
which we will port our boat and pulldown to Petoskey, four 
miles, there to take tho evening express for the south. 
Having arranged with the two stout Indian lads (Mrs. Ln 
nnd family still stand by us) to help port the boat, we push 
on, warned by the rapidly setting sun that there is no lime 
to lose if we would catch the train. About midway be- 
tween Crooked Lake and Round Lake the stream becomes 
so narrow and tortuous that we find it expedient to got out 
und wulk overland (less than a mile), leaving "John" to 
polo the boat through. Reaching the Juke shore we wait 
some time nt tho mouth of the little stream, nnd no John 
appearing we get anxious, and McKay starts up stream to 
"help him out." A few minutes later your correspondent 
makes nu effort in the sumo direction, and in the shallow 
waters, right at the stream’s mouth, meets a fine largo bass. 
The fish quickly turns tull and up the stream ho goes, with 
your humble servant in hot pursuit, until tho latter, moot- 
ing his companions descending tho creek, the bout Isquickly 
turned in tho stream, and Mr. Buss, at bay, Is enught by 
hand und tossed into the boat; If not a strictly sportsman 
like exploit, at least an exciting ono. 
Wo work the bout down to tho lake, nnd soon row across 
its clear waters, taking another fine bass on the trolling 
spoon as we go. With the help of our wuiiing porters wc 
carry the boat over and drop her into Little Traverse Bay, 
and after a stout pull of about four miles arrive at Pe- 
toskey just in time to catch tho evening train. The weather 
had been charming throughout, and the trip in all respect* 
a delightful one. Our only regret is that we had been too 
greatly hurried by business considerations to take proper 
time or row at the right speed for trolling. The balmy at- 
mosphere, the surpassing loveliness of tho lakes and their 
surroundings, and tho great abundance and excellency of 
the fllhhjg, had offered fascinations hard to withstand; but 
while successfully resisting these temptations to remain, 
we resolved that the season of ’76 should see us revisiting 
