180 
FOREST AND STREAM 
be obtained, and a pleasant drive of some nineteen miles to 
the falls enjoyed. By making a slight detour the Toccoa 
Falls, three miles from Toccoa City, ran be visited. These 
are very peculiar. There is but one fall, and that is a sheer 
one, a little over two hundred feet. The volume of water is 
small, and when it reaches the bnsin below it is, in very 
dry weather, all spray. The falls lie in a deep glen. This 
glen is crossed squarely aud ubruptly by a perpendicular 
wall of rock, over the top of which the stream fulls. These 
strata of rock run from northeast to southwest, but as I 
am not writing a geological essay, 1 will ouly say that 
garnets are found in the rock ; verb tap. 
As one lies on the flat lop and looks over the edge, the 
distance seems very great; but when we go below and look 
up, the sense of height is lost, owing to the coutour of the 
surrounding hills. The stream runs off from the small 
deep pool at the foot with but little fall, for the Toccoa 
Fulls drop quite to the bottom of the valley. 
Far different from this is Stekoa Fall. The same wall of 
rock, some thirty miles to the northeast crosses another 
valley in the same way, and over the ledge runs a little 
stream, a branch of the Stekoa River, which it joins about 
half a mile below. A little mite of a mill is perched on 
the top of the rock, and the stream runs through a turbine 
w heel before it is let over the cliff— aud this mill grinds 
the meal of the country. A couch shell, lying on u log, is 
the means used by visitors to summon the miller, who lives 
in the valley below. The little stream, after havieg faith- 
fully performed its duties, rushes down some shelving, 
broken ledges of rock, and leaps off into space. Owing to 
the manner in which the water is broken by the ledges, 
when it leaps over the cliff, it seems brokcu into globules 
about the size of grapes. These seem to retain their size 
and shape all the way down, uud, us I sat below and looked 
up, it seemed os If some one above were shoveling over 
quantities of largo glass beads, which gleamed and glittered 
in the sun until they struck on a flat rock ut the foot, when 
they flew into Hpray, upon which a beautifully tinted rain- 
• bow forever danced. After it leaves this rock, the streuin 
runs down u rugged and steep gorge, among heavy 
boulders, for about half a mile, until it reaches the vulley 
and River Stekoa, a total fall of fully a thousand feet. In 
Winter, when the rains are heavy, this little stream is a 
roaring torrent whose thunders shake the rocks to their 
foundations, and are heard for miles, rivalling the great 
thunderer, Tallulah. 
West of all these falls, where White county joins Haber- 
sham, lies the Nacooclree Valley — the beautiful “vale of the 
Evening Star." The story of the lovely Indian maiden, 
whoso name it hears, is so well known I shall not repeat it 
here. The visitor at the present day will find it well cul- 
tivated and settled by the most hospitable and liberal 
people in the Slate. There is a great deal of wealth there, 
lor it is a rich valley, and the planters keep packs of 
hounds and the finest horses, and the fox is hunted iu a 
style to remind one of Mellon in its palmiest days. A 
stranger gentleman going there properly introduced, even 
though ho be “n Yankee," will meet a reception he will 
find hard to be equalled in cordiality any where else in the 
South, so 1 forbear to mention names. 
To the southwest of Nacoochcc lies Mount Yonnb, whose 
groat flat head towers aloft above the surrounding moun- 
tains. uud is u prominent object for u hundred miles 
around. 
North and west of Mount Yonab, in Towns county, is 
the Hiwussee Valley, which I mention on account of its 
peculiarity. The valley is long aud narrow, with high 
cliffs on eil her Bide. The road rims close under the cliff, 
aud the Hiwussee River, clear and cold, hugs the road its 
■whole length Across the- river i9 the meadow, varying 
from a quarter to a mile in width, und beyond this the 
rocks again. The place is a kind of cafiou, and 1 have 
heard it culled the "Gates of Iliwftssee.’’ 
To the t.c?* of this, again, are the Amikalola Falls, 
From this road tncy seem but a thread of silver. They 
are said to be an irregular set of tails and rapids, about 
fifteen hundred feet high in all. 1 have never been able to 
visit them; they are off the muiu routes of travel, and 
even the main roads of the county. They are said to be 
vciy beautiful. 
But I must bring this hasty sketch to n close, though I 
have uot mentioned it tithe of ihe beauties ot this Hill 
Country. One cannot go amiss, whatever direction he 
takes after he leaves the railroad. Horses and teams can 
be obluiued iu all the county or other towns with but little 
trouble. Hotels are scarce, though each county town, 
usually, has one or more. But if the visitor will be satis- 
fied with the rougli faro of the country, lie will be wel- 
come everywhere, All will be glad to go shooting or fish- 
ing with him, for no one is ever so busy as to have no time 
to spare. In all these counties are men who do little but 
hunt, and anywhere good guides and good hunters cuu be 
obtaiued. 
The means of access to this country are— via Chattanoo- 
gn, over the Western and Atlantic Railroad, und via Rich- 
mond, over the Atlanta and Richmond Air Line Railroad. 
After one leaves the railroad, at ulmost any of the stations, 
horses and wagons cuu be had, and then he can explore ut 
his leisure the beauties and pleasures of the Hill Country 
of Georgiu. Mosmoutu. 
Fur Fort it and Stnarn. 
REMINISCENCE OF THE MUSKOKA 
COUNTRY. 
W E were induced to make the journey into Her 
Majesty's Dominion by n geullemau from Toronto, 
who assured us of the superior trout fishing to he hail iii 
the Muf-koka country, aud in the Trading Lakes. He 
promised to accompany us on the expedition. So the party 
was organized, and consisted of four persons, all old trout 
fishermen, namely: Uncle Alec, John II.. the organizer of 
the expedition; Lewis, the scientific fisherman, who scorns 
to use a worm under auy circumstances, and myself, the 
self-constituted historian. I reckon our darkey ser’vaut 
and cook among the baggage und camp cquipuge, as the 
Civil Rights Bill didn't obtain there, to any cxleut. 
We suited from home in the latter part of June, (two 
years ago,) and without unusual incident urrived at Lewis- 
town on the Niagara River, a few miles below the Fulls 
where a short detention was occasioned at the Custom 
House, i he officers in churge, however, caused us no un- 
necessary inconvenience. Our baggage was passed at ouco 
when our business was made kuowu, aud with their best 
wishes we stepped aboard the slsumcr aud iu an hour or 
two arrived at Toronto, and wore •omforlably entertained 
at the Rossin House. Hero our Canadian friend, the bar- 
rister, welcomed us. That night the proprietor of a store 
was roused from his bed and persuaded to fill an order for 
the commissary department,' so Hint we could be off the 
next morning. 
At seven o'clock we took the cars of the Northern Rail- 
way. At noon we reuched Orillia, there embarked upon a 
steamer for Washago, across Lake Coucbiukiug. The 
steamer was small, but carried us swiftly und safely over 
that pretty little sheet of water. The trip was delightful, 
und a most ugreeable change from the confinement of the 
cars. At Wasliago we took stage for Muskoka Lake, a distance 
of about fourteen miles, which was not tiresome, for the 
road was tolerably good, and the horses made time over 
the better part of it. Extensive fires were prevailing iu 
the words and at times it appeared us though our way 
would be blockaded by the burning timber. VVe were not 
materially deluyed, however, and we could not but enjoy 
the grandeur of the conllagration when we became familiar- 
ized with the unusual sight. 
The appearance of the country was very unlike our 
mountain scenery. The land was rolling, or rather broken; 
occasionally we crossed a chasm aud caught glimpses of 
rushing streams through the foliage that suggested trout, 
but the drivers assured us they contained only common 
fish and afforded no sport. We crossed the Severn River, 
a beautiful stream, the wuter of a peculiar pea-green color. 
At the store near the bridge were displayed a variety of 
fishiug tackle, 6poons and artificial bait aud spears, and we 
learned that there was plenty of bass aud pickerel aud mus- 
culongc in the river. 
The country is of a granite formation, and sometimes 
the upheavals formed high cliffs, the grey walls streaked 
witli perpendicular veins of white quartz of various thick- 
nesses, producing a striking effect. Now und then we passed 
the cubm of u settler, auu at one spot our attention was 
called to a fort built upon an overhanging cliff, the parapets 
of which bristled with quaker caunon and sheet-iron 
soldiers painted iu the gorgeous uniforms of the Guards 
and the Highlanders, and even a few Indian allies brandish- 
ing their tomahawks were seen among them. The fort 
was the work of an old English soldier, a victim of unap- 
preciated military genius. His neat little cabin rested at 
the foot ot the rock und the garden was ornamented with 
a profusion of hardy flowers which seemed to thrive where 
one of our Pennsylvania crickets would starve, it was 
late iu the afternoon when we arrived at Gravenhurst. 
The steamer was ut the pier, passengers and freight were 
transferred from the wagons to its docks, and we were off 
I have uot the time nor the skill to describe Hie beauty of 
Muskoka Lake. We were told it contained one thousand 
islands. The journey among them forcibly reminded us 
ot the Thousand Islands of the Si. Lawrence, or Lake 
George. At limes the steamer would apparently be mak- 
ing directly upon a rocky shore, when suddenly an opening 
would be discovered just wide enough for the vessel to pass 
through, und we would sail upon the open lake, but soon 
bo among the islunds again. And so the scenes shifted and 
changed, one beauty succeeding another in endless variety 
till in the darkness of evening we entered the .Muskoka 
River, and lied up al the foot of a magnificent water-full 
more than one hundred feet in height. This was the luud- 
mg at Bracebridge; “Bill" liiggms being advised of our 
coming met us al Ibe landing uud conducted us to his hotel, 
the Queens, und promised to guide our party to the lakes’ 
lie assured us of abundance of lioul, and we retired to 
rest that night in the best of spirits, and it is not strange 
that our rest was disturbed with visions of mighty fish, 
five aud even ten pouuders; for we were repeatedly told 
by the most reliable authorities during the evening that 
there were "just loads" of trout iu the river, and up at 
Trading Lake they grew to immense size. 
Next day wagons were engaged, canoes borrowed, aud 
with several guides the expedition moved off across the 
couutry towards a convenient place on the river for a 
base of supplies, and where the canoes would be launched 
and iu them the parly proceed to the lakes. As we entered 
me “Bush" we were compelled to draw the veils, with 
which wc were fortunately provided, around our heads to 
guard against the incessant attacks of the gnats und mos- 
quitos. Two meu preceded our wagons wuhuxes to clear 
me road of stumps aud fallen tree trunks, for the woods 
had rcoeully been burned, uud the township road, which 
hud never been much belter than u “blazed" path, was fre- 
quently impassable. Al one place Our progress through a 
swamp was stopped, and we were compelled to halt until a 
bridge was built over a soft pluce and ucross a stream by 
a gaug of laborers under a government engineer whose 
acquaintance we lmd mude at Bracebridge, wlicu he volun- 
teered to see us through to the river. In fact, without his 
aid we would have beeu compelled to return uud give up 
the expedition to the luke. At length wc arrived at the 
river and encamped on a small cleuriug owned by a mau 
mimed Johns. The journey irom Bracebridge which 
they informed us was only eight or ten miles, was success- 
fully accomplished in one day after a most fatiguing 
journey. Tins road bus since been much improved 
Our tent, a hospital tent capable of accommodating a 
dozcu persons com I ortubly, was pitched; boughs cut for 
beds; we ale a hastily prepared supper; entertained a short 
visit from the Johns family; und at an early hour rolled 
ourselves in our blankets, adjusted our mosquito ucts aud 
tried to sleep. At day break the next morning wo wercup 
our servant had prepared a hearty meal, which wc shared 
with our new acquaintances, upon whose laud we had un- 
ceremoniously squatted. 
The River here is about two hundred feet wide with 
no apparent current, deep and dark, very unlike a trout 
stream, aud very like a canal. Bobby Johns was drafted 
into our service aud his pareuts induced to part with him 
for a lew days, lie al once became u general favorite, uiul 
the special pet of Uncle Alec, whose particular amusement 
consisted ot placing him before a good “spread of store 
provisions,” just to see him cut. Bobby lmd been among 
the Indians on several expeditions, bail learned wood-craft 
mid could puddle u bireh-burk canoe us skillfully as uti 
old voymjeur, run the rapids aud shoot the falls, lie be- 
came very useful and, indeed, indispeusuble to us. 
Before breukfust Johu II., with one of the guides, pad- 
died down to a full a mile or two below camp, and iu an 
hour or two returned with u flue string of trout, the real 
lalmoJonUnaUi, whose existence in the river we begau to 
have serious doubu. about. Meantime Louis, wiilf Hig- 
gms, had taken a canoe und departed tor the upper fall. 
John II s success made me very anxious to try uiy luck 
also, taking Bobby to paddle the canoe, wo were not 
loug ru coming in sight of the falls aud soou discovered 
Louis’s boat moored to a rock on the west side of the river, 
himself out. in the stream casting right aud left, and eucli 
time hooking a trout and frequently taking a pair. Urging 
Bobby to ply the paddle as fast as possible, I soon lunded 
on the opposite side and began operations. I was imme- 
diately rewarded with a lurge fish, and for a lime I also 
enjoyed most excellent sport and began to feel repaid for 
the long journey and incident fatigue. Suddenly, for some 
unaccountable rcusou, which all fishermen have ex- 
perienced, the fish ceased to rise to our flies; though we 
made frequent changes in color, variety and size, they 
would not notice them. However, we had takeu more 
than our whole party could eat that day. None of the 
fish were very large, though they averaged’ more than half 
a pound each in weight. The canoes were sent back for 
the rest of the party, while Louis and I selected a place for 
camp, and upon the return of the boats they are unloaded, 
tents set up, fire kindled and the darkey soou had dinner 
under way. 
The situation of this camp was a most picturesque one. 
The tent was pitched upon an immense boulder rising 
above the falls, aud descending in a series of steps at an 
easy angle to the water below. The view from the door of 
the tent opened upon u basin a quarter of a mile or more 
across, forming a little luke of sylvan beauty. Back of us 
and- on all sides was the primeval forest extending without 
a clearing to the Hudson's Bair. The weather was fine, the 
air bracing and odorous with the balsams, hemlock, and 
the murmur of the rapids and the roar of the falls were 
most soothing to mind and body. The clean rock was the 
table on which was laid our frequent meals, and its mossy 
coverings formed cushions on which it was a privilege to 
lounge and sleep, if possible. Truly we appeared to be in 
a spoi lsman's paradise— but the mosquitos ! They attacked 
every exposed part of us. Tur and oil, penny royal and 
oil, crude petroleum, camphor, and ham rind did uot offend 
them. They rather liked the concoctions. They surfeited 
themselves, flew off, told their frieuds and neighbor^ und 
returned to prey upon us. 
We remained iu ibis camp several days. Our Canadiau 
friend aud guide were sent up to the lake on a prospecting 
expedition aud returned with Charlie Diuke, the guide of 
Trading Lakes. They reported good fishing above, and 
showed some fine specimens of trout which they had 
caught. Drake repaired the canoes that were sadly in 
need of li is attention. The following day we moved up 
stream and made our third encampment at tiro head of a 
loug portage, the “Half Mile Rapids.” En route we passed 
three or four falls over or around which it was necessary 
to curry canoes and baggage, very slow and fatiguing work, 
llie location of this camp was very badly selected. The 
tents were raised on low ground and multitudes of mos- 
quitos and black flies swarmed iu that ravine. We could 
baldly eat or sleep, ami so it was determined to move as 
soon as possible, though this was probably the best place 
on the river for fishing. We had no difficulty iu catching 
more fish than we could use, but we ceased to look for 
sport there— the most enihusiaslic fisherman in the world 
would have abandoned the spot ! 
As the canoes would not accommodate the whole party 
witli luggage, John H. aud myself were left behind While 
awaiting the canoe that was to ho sent back for us. I eon- 
cluiled to consume the lime as profitably as possible 
With some difficulty I climbed a large shelving rock over 
the deepest part of the stream, on which I found a lod-'o 
close to the water just wide enough to stand upon. Here I 
caught a great many fine trout, and began to tire of the 
pleasure, when 1 fastened onto two fish, one of which on 
the leader fly wus of uuusual size. For upwards of half an 
hour I exercised my nicest skill to secure both fish. The 
smaller one wus soon exliuusted, and to relieve the slruin 
upon my tackle, I succeeded iu getting it into my basket. 
1 hen began a fight with the big one. Many yards of line 
\sould spin out before I could check him, us lie (lushed 
down the current and threw himself out of the water in his 
rush for liberty. Slowly I reeled him iu and humored him 
m every way, using all my skill and knowledge of the art 
to conquer him. At length lie began to show signs of 
weakness and rolled on lus side and tamely submitted to 
being brought to my feet, where I could distinctly see U.u 
scarlet spols on his broad sides, and eveu touch his back 
with the lips of my fingers. But owing to the position in 
which I was standing, or rather clinging to the rock it was 
impossible to take hold of him. Unfortunately niv land- 
ing-net was out of reach, and Joliu H. too far off und 
otherwise engaged, to give me uny assistance. 1 felt sure 
the prize was mine, when suddenly new life seemed to be 
intused into him, and in u grand struggle he broke away 
tearing the hook from the feathers and gut nnd escaped 
I cannot describe the feelings of disappointment that are 
aroused us I think of my misfortune in losing that trout 
When I hear other persons tell of hooking the “biggest fish 
in the stream’ and not securing it, I ,uu very charitable 
towards them, for “I know bow it is myself." That trout 
I am satisfied was a five pounder, ut any rate the largest ono 
I ever saw. 
The canoes by this time had been brought back for us 
and we continued on our way to Truding Lake, into which 
we floated as the suu was going dowu. The sky lnul be- 
come overcast with clouds, and while camp was being fitted 
up. nud supper cooking, Higgins and I, in two canoes pro- 
ceeded to Hie outlet of the lulie to fish. To avoid another 
unfortunate experience I changed my reel for one ou which 
was wound a uew linen line, attached a fresh leader aud 
new flies. Higgins at once began to catch large trout and 
with Ins heavy pole and strong tackle “just yanked" them 
into the cauoe. He "never played a trout." Now was my 
opportunity to show the "Knuuek" the scientific way to 
fish for trout with my light rod and line. But my attempt 
was a signal failure. The new line would not play out it 
twisted and snarled, and tried my patience to the utmost 
and I could not make a cast at all. However I succeeded 
.in getting my share of fish, and in about n half an hour 
we relumed to camp with twenty-two magnificent trout 
averaging over two pounds each in weight, the largest 
Weighing over three pounds and eighteen inches long 
1 here was a storm that night, but the morning was clear. 
Our teut was erected ou a small clearing some twenty 
paces from the water, and afforded an uninterrupted view 
of the lake, its islands curving shores. No human habi- 
tation was visible; we were in a solitude just as it cuiue 
Horn the bauds of its Maker; the cry of the inevitable 
uous aloue breaking the silence. After an early dip iu the 
lake and a hearty breakfast, our rods and lines were put in 
order, the most alluring flies selected from our books, 
canoes repaired, aud in a short time Hie whole party were 
busily engaged in whipping the outlet as it rushes from the 
