28-4 
AMERICAN AGRICULTURIST. 
[AuatTBT, 
serted is the startinjr point of a new tree, all of the 
Gtocic, or the tree in which the bud is placed, being 
cut away above the bud. 
Graftinj and Biulding Differ in other points be- 
sides that mentioned. In grafting (at least go far 
as fruit trees ara concenied) we use buds of the 
last season's growth, and expect them to grow the 
same season we insert t!icm. Id budding, we use 
buds that have been formed the same season, and 
expect them to lie donnant all winter, and to start 
into gi'owth the following spring; hence budding 
is done in summer and early fall. 
What are Needed in i'iiWii!^.— Stocks on which to 
worli ; buJs, a suitable knife for the work, and ma- 
terial for tying the buds after insertion. 
TJie Stoc^^i arc usuolly small, from one fourth of 
an in3h to an inch thick; peach and plum stocks 
from seed pl.anted in spring, are usually large 
enough by mid-summer ; slower growing ones will 
iie older. The stock must be in a thrifty, growing 
state ; the proper condition is shown by the bark 
parting freely from the wood, or as budders gay, 
" tae bark will run." 
Buds are formed in the axils of the leaves of 
twigs that have grown the same season. They 
must bo well formed, and of course great care 
should be taken to get them true to the kind, The 
Buitablc twigs are cut, taking care to keep from 
■wilting by thorough wetting. To prevent evapora- 
tion, each leaf is cut away, leaving about half an 
Inch attached to the leaf-stalk ; as the lowermost 
buds on a twig are usually very small, and the up- 
permost not mature enough, both the top and bot- 
tom of the twig are cut off. A twig thus prepared 
Is called a " stick of buds," and is ready for use. 
It must be kept in the shade and cool until used, 
and in buduins the sticks, c:tcept the one in hand, 
should be kept covered and damp. 
TOe Krop. — Budding knives of various patterus 
are sold, with round and square points, and. with 
and without a thin ivory spatula at the end oppo- 
Eite the blade, as in flgiu'e 1. Each regular bud- 
der has his own notions about the be«t shape, but 
the rapid budders generally use a rc>und blunt- 
pointed knife, and some prefer to have the blade 
Fig. 1.— BIJDDINa KNIFE. 
fixed, and in a round wooden handle. Whatever 
the style ?f knife, it should be very sharp. 
TTk Tijing Material in most general use is bast, 
either imported in the form of Russia matting, or 
that made from our native Basswood ; other im- 
ported fibers are sold, such as Roffia, Japan-Flax, 
etc. Some budders at the West prefer selected 
inner corn-husks, or " shucks," to any other ma- 
terial, while some use soft cotton twine exclusively. 
The Opsi-aion. is here illustrated by some engrav- 
ings from Fulton's "Peach Culturist." The leaves 
being stripped from the lower part of the stock, 
the budder makes 
an upright cut 
through the bark, 
and another cross- 
wise at the top of 
that, as in figure 2. 
He then cuts a 
stick of buds, and 
selecting a leaf bud 
{fruit buds are 
larger and rounder, 
and are not used), 
he enters the knife 
about half an inch 
above the bud, and 
cuts downward so 
that th© Knife will 
come out about as 
far below the bud ; 
this will remove a shield of bark, upon which is the 
tud and the leaf-stalk below it, which serves as 
a handle to the shield {fig. 3). A small portion 
of the wood will be taken off with the bark. Some 
advise the removal of this bit of wood, but :n prac- 
tice it is ueuaUy left, taking care to have it as thin 
Fig. 3. — TH2 COT. 
E>g. 3. — THE SHIELD ASD EOT). 
Fig. 4.— BUD INSERTED. 
Fig. 5. —TIE. 
as possible. The corners of the cut being lifted by 
the blade of the knife, or thin ivory on the handle, 
the bud is inserted as in figure 4, 
and the top of the shield cut 
square with the cross cut on the 
stock. The bud is now to be 
tied in, with a few turns of 
bast or other material, leaving 
the bud exposed. Figure 5 
shows one method of tying. 
T!ie Time for Budding varies 
with the character of the season. 
Plums usually come first, Pears 
on Pear-stock ; Apples, Peaches, 
Cherries,on Mazzard stock; Pears 
on Quince, and Cherries on Ma- 
haleb follow in the order named. 
After Care. — If the bud has formed a union with 
the stock, or has " taken," it may be known at the 
end of 10 days or two weeks from the time of in- 
sertion. If it succeeds it will remain plump, the 
portion of bark attached to it will be fresh and 
bright, while the leaf-stalk that sei-ved as a handle, 
win have ripened and fallen off. vShriveled bud and 
bark, with the leaf-stalk dried up and holding fast, 
show a failure. At the end of three weeks the ties 
are cut and removed, but in some stocks the growth 
may have caused the tie to strangle before the union 
is complete, and it must be loosened before it can 
be removed altogether. The next spring the stock 
is cut away above the bud, and the whole growth 
of the tree be confined to that. 
Mxpc-rt Budders work with astonishing rapidity, 
and consider 1,500 to 3,000 buds a fair day's work, 
but some wiU put in 8,030. By practice they ac- 
quire a knack of working ^vith the fewest motions ; 
both cuts are made without taking the knife away 
from the place, and when the stock is in proper 
condition, the bark is not lifted other than by the 
bud when it is pushed into its place. These experts 
have one man or boy to go ahead and strip the 
stocks, and two to f^,llow and tie. 
Fruit Oarden. 
The fruit for the present season being off of many 
kinds, preparation for the crop of next year is now 
in order. With a view to this in 
SaspberriAS and Blackberries, we prefer, for rea- 
sons given last month, to cut away the old canes as 
soon as the fruit is off. Select the new shoots that 
are to fruit next year, and keep them tied up, de- 
Btroymg all the others. When these reach four 
feet high in raspberries, and six feet in blackberries, 
stop them by cutting or pinching off the tip ; some 
prefer them lower than this by a foot. This stop- 
ping will cause branching, and the branches should 
not be allowed to gi'ow over 15 or 18 inches long. 
iJ?«<T7i;-0^n!/!(JR(i7)?e-05t«e raspberries should have 
the old brauches cut out, and if so many new ones 
start as to make the bushes crowded, remove a 
p.art. Stop the remainder at 3 or 4 ft. 
Strawberries. — Those who have runners rooted in 
small jjots, may set out this month, and get a good 
crop nex' year. Runners from the bed had better 
be left until next month, unless one can give spe- 
cial care. Plants set now should have all the outer 
leaves removed, to prevent evaporation, leaving on- 
ly the bud of undeveloped leaves in the center ; 
spread the roots well ; water to settle the earth 
around the roots, drawing fine soil around the plant, 
and mulch with stable litter. If a very dry time 
follows, watering may be needed. While this 
would not pay in field culture, it may be practised 
in the family garden, and a good crop, if not a full 
one, be had next spring. 
G-rapss. — But little work is now required in the 
vineyard. Hand-pick the large beetles and cater- 
pillars ; apply sulphur on the first appearance of 
mildew ; pinch in the growth of laterals, and re- 
move shoots that push where they are not wanted. 
Kitcliea and ]Marl£«t Oartlen. 
Beyond the gathering for use or market such arti- 
cles as are ready, there is less work required in this 
department now, than in any other growing month; 
still preparation may be made for a few late crops, 
and the general care of the gi'owing crops, as set 
down in the Notes of the last and previous months, 
will require attention — and weeds — which we al- 
ways have with us, are quite sure to prevent any- 
thing like absolute idleness. 
Sowing Se* may be done for late crops of bush 
beans, spinach, radishes, and lettuce. Those who 
wish to try a late crop of peas, should put in the 
early sorts, but in most seasons they mildew so 
badly as to be worthless. 
Turnips of the Swedes and Euta-Baga kinds, 
should have been sown last month, but a fair crop 
may be generally had by sowing at once. The in- 
termediate sorts, such as Cow-Horn and Yellow 
Stone, may be sown by the middle, and the flat 
sorts, of which the Red-top Strap-leaf is best, at the 
end of the month, or early in September. Lime or 
ashes, or a mixture of the two, may be dusted over 
the young plants to keep off "the flea," which ia 
less troublesome than early in the season. 
Onions are ready to harvest when the tops of a 
majority have fallen over. Many growers send to 
market directly from the field. If they are to be 
kept, they should be cured a few days in the sun, 
stacking at night in heaps of a few bushels each, 
with the tops outward. When stored, spread in 
thin layers in an airy loft. 
Onion Sets are pulled, allowed to dry thoroughly, 
and spread in an airy place, in a layer not over six 
inches deep. They must be looked to, and stirred 
occasionally, during warm weather. 
Working of Crops in rows should be continued un- 
til the leaves become so large as to stop it. The 
late cabbages wiU need frequent hoeing. 
Celei-y should have been put in earlier, but plants 
set at once wUl make fair-sized heads. The growth 
is to be promoted by hoeing ami weeding. 
Sweet Ibtatoe-s should now cover the ground, and 
keep the weeds down, and need no other care than 
moving the vines occasionally, to prevent them 
from taking root. 
Sweet Com. — ^As soon as the ears are taken from a 
row, the stalks should be cut up at once, and cured 
for fodder. If allowed to stand, they wiU grow 
woody and become valueless. 
Inseets will still attack the plants, especially to- 
matoes, squashes, and all of their family, egg 
plants, etc., and should be destroyed, as advised in 
last month's Notes. 
I-'loner Oai-den aitd C^avtrn. 
Keeping things in a neat and orderly eoudition, 
will require care rather than hard work Li a 
dry time, the lawn should not be mowed too close- 
ly, or too often Keep the ornamental beds in 
well defined Hues, and regulate the bight of the 
plants Give supports to such plants as need 
them ; dahlias, lilies, gladioluses, and others, arc 
often not presentable, unless helped to stand erect. 
Cut away spent flower clusters, except where 
seeds are wanted Insects are always to be kept 
under; lilies, especially the Japan sorts, are at- 
tacked by a small caterpiDar upon the under-sid» 
of the leaves, and will riddle them, unless stopped 
— thumb and finger and a squeeze will do it. 
<]irccnho»se and ^Vindotv Plants. 
There is scarcely anything to add to last month's 
Notes, which mainly had reference to the care of 
plants placed out of doors. Needed shade, water, 
and protection against injury, whether from insects 
or larger animals, are to be given to the plants, 
whether set outside, or remaining in the house .... 
The present is a favorable month for doing all 
needed repairs, whether to the house or the heating 
apparatus Bedding plants may be propagated 
by cuttings this month and next, for a stock to 
keep over winter Any plants in pots, that are 
not in healthy condition, may have the soil washed 
from their roots, and be re-potted with fresh soil, 
using a pot no larger than before ; this treatmunt 
is especially beneficial to roses kept in pots, and 
with other plants will often recuperate them, as 
well as the usual method of giving larger pots. 
