1866.] 
AMERICAN AORICULTURIST. 
83 
Winter Grain is often greatly benefitted byaligbt 
dressing of some fertilizer. Wbere gas-house liquor 
(ammouiacal water) can be obtained, if it can be 
showered upon the grain from a liquid manure dis- 
tributor, like a city watering cart, it produces ex- 
cellent effects both npon grain and grass, as do 
likewise ashes and plaster, either or both; bone- 
dust also, and superphosiihatc of lime, if good. 
Grass iSeedini/, if done well, will be successful; 
use a little more than enough seed, and have the 
ground well prepared. On grain it should be sowed 
while the grouiul is still loose and opcu from the 
escaping frost. In either case roll after sowing. 
^ llfeitf. — At this season, in meadows and pastures, 
and along the fence rows a great many of the bien- 
nial weeds may bo easily seen and destroyed. A 
few men and boys armed with what we have heard 
called "spnds," which arc strong sticks tipped 
with chisel-like, steel points, will cut up a great 
many mulleins, teaslcs, thistles, docks, etc. 
Work in the Horticultural Departments. 
The time for jilanning has well nigh passed, and 
the lengthening and milder d.ays indicate that work 
may now soon begin in earnest. If there be any 
who intend to plant, and have not ordered their 
trees, or who intend to sow and have not yet looked 
after tlieir seeds, we counsel them to do it forth- 
with. Do not order evei-y novelty that is adver- 
tised or noticed in the papers, but let the main 
selections, whether for fruit, vegetables, or flowers, 
be of established sorts, with only a few of the 
newer things for a trial. Better pl.ant a dozen sorts 
of apples or pears, known to succeed in your neigh- 
borhood, than fifty sorts known only by report. 
We do not at all object to the trial of new things, 
but encourage those who have the means to test 
them, and fortunately there arepleuty of such, who 
are ready to pay any price for a novelty. But to 
those who wish trees for fruit, vegetables for the 
table, and flowers for enjoyment, and whose space 
and means are both limited, we advise caution and 
moderate investments in unknown things. 
Oi-cliard and I!fiirgery. 
As soon as the frost will allow, the nurseryman 
takes up his young trees .and heels them in, ready 
to fill orders. Buyers are apt to judge of the tree 
by the top, aud more is the pity. A small clump 
of roots is readily taken up, is easily packed, 
and to the majority of people answers as well as a 
large mass of unmutilated roots. A moderate 
shortening of the roots would not be of so much 
consequence, if the purchaser would only cut back 
the top to correspond. Most of the buds will pro- 
duce leaves ; every leaf increases the ev.iporaliug 
surface, and if this is out of proportion to the ab- 
sorbing surfiice of the roots, the consequence i.s 
that each bud shows a sickly tuft of leaves, makes 
no growth, and if the tree does not die outright, 
it might .as well, for it will be a long time in re- 
coveriug. The moral of all this is, 
Pnine at Planting, not only to keep matters 
square between root and leaf, but also to shape the 
tree. Get all the roots that the nurserymen can be 
induced to give, trim all that have been severed, 
with a smooth cut sloping from below upwards, 
then shorten at least half of last year's growth. 
Do not look upon a young tree for what it is, but 
what it will be when the buds have grown to 
limbs. The Last bud left on the limb will become 
the leader, and it should poiut outward, or to the 
right or left, as is needed to shape the tree, bnt 
seldom, or never, inward. If necessary to cut two- 
or three buds below the one preferred, in order to 
find one that points iu the right directiou, do it. 
Cut near to, but not too close to the bud, and never 
leave a stub above the bud, to decay. Also cut out 
all useless branches, and those which will cross. 
Have every thing in readiness to set out trees as 
soon as they arrive. As soon as the ground is 
settled and can be worked, set out 
Cuttings of currant, gooseberry, quince, etc. 
Crowd the earth well around the base of the cut- 
tings. Where rabbits aud mice are plenty, there 
will frequently be 
Girdled Trees, which a little timely care will save. 
If the inner bark is not entirely destroyed, put on 
a generous plaster of cow liuug and clay, and bind 
it there with old cloths ; but if the girdling is com- 
pletely made through to the wood, then small 
twigs, of the same kind, may be used to bridge over 
the space. The twigs are to be somewhat longer 
then the girdled baud, whittled to a thin chamfer 
at each end, and inserted under the bark both above 
and below the wound, in a cut made as for bud- 
ding. As many m.ay be inserted as can be without 
too much injury to the bark. Tic securely, put on 
grafting wax or clay, and shorten the limlis. It is 
at the North too early to do 
Grafting, but clous may be cut as heretofore di- 
rectcil, and grafting wax or clay made ready. If 
the eggs «f the teut caterpillar have not been at- 
tended to, read what was said in Jauuary under 
Insects, and see how mauy rascals can be nipped 
in the bud, or egg, which is practically the same. 
The Trunks o[ old orchard trees may be treated 
to the soft soap wash, as suggested in February. 
Home-made soap is better than "boughten,". and ley 
or a solution of 1 lb. of pot.ash to 4 g.allons of water 
may be used instead. In these warm days of March 
the moths which are the parents of the 
Canker Worm ascend the trunks. Whatever pro- 
tection is used, its value depends npon being well 
applied, and carefully looked after. If there is any 
space between the protection and the tree, the in- 
sects will find it aud pass through. If tar be used, 
it must be kept fresh and sticky. If troughs con- 
taining oil, see that neither dust, straws, nor dead 
insects form a bridge to travel over. The protect- 
or of Mr. D. Lyman is simple and readily con- 
structed ; it was figured in December last. 
Stocks budded last fall, may be cut to within 3 
inches of the bud, provided that appears to be alive. 
Fruit Garden. 
To those who propose to set a portion of ground 
apart for a fruit garden, we say, if the land is not 
properly prepared, better wait until autumn before 
planting small fruits, and devote the season to fit- 
ting it for their reception. Drainage is usually 
needed. Deep working and manuring can both be 
accomplished by growing some highly manured 
hoed crop. Sweet potatoes require a treatment 
that will leave the land in excellent condition. 
Autumn planting is for many things preferable. 
One of the first things needing attention is the 
Orai>e Vities, which in the autumn pruning had 
an extra bud left ; these buds may now be cut 
away. Plant new vines as early as the soil is fit, 
and whatever stj'le of pruning may be adopted, 
allow only one cane to grow from a yoimg vine the 
first year. When the season is sufliciently ad- 
vanced, uncover the vines that have been protected 
by a coating of earth, by lifting them with a fork. 
Grape Cuttings of those varieties th.at will root 
readily in the open ground, are to be put out as 
soon as the soil has settled. Make a trench with 
the spade, deep enough for the cuttings, set them 4 
inches apart, press the earth firmly about their 
lower ends, and fill up the trench so that the upper 
bud of the cutting will be just at the surface, or but 
slightly covered. Cuttings of 
Currants and Gooseberries are treated the same ; 
the bushes may still be pruned, and cuttings used. 
Blackberries aud Raspberries should be taken up 
early, as the young shoots are easily destroyed when 
they have made much growth. Prepare beds for 
Slrawben-ies, using old manure, and be ready to 
set them as soon as plants can be had. 
Dwarf Ran. and Apples are the largest trees 
allowable in the fruit garden proper, and these 
should be kept as compact bushes or pyramids. 
To get trees perfect in form, they must betaken 
only a year from the bud, or graft, and they can 
then be kept perfectly under control. See article 
on this subject with illustrations in January, 1863. 
Kitchen Garden. 
One of the things to which especial attention 
must be given this month, is the forwarding of 
plants under glass for transplanting as soon as the 
weather serves. Small operations may go on in 
window boxes, as described in February on page 
G'2 ; but the hot-bed or cold frame will be needed 
by many. The apparatus in both cases is the same, 
and sufBcient directions for its construction were 
given l.ast month. Those who hesit.ate about the 
expense should remember that in all closely settled 
communities there is a demand for early plants, 
.and the expense of fixtures may soon be defrayed 
by the sale of cabbage, tomato, pepper, .and other 
jilants. Mr. Henderson, on another page, shows 
how market gardeners manage with their sashes. 
Cold frames will do in most cases instead of hot- 
beds, bnt to get earliest results with many plants, 
ITot-beds must be used. The position of the bed is 
of importance; the gronnd should be dry, easy of 
access from the house, and, above all, sheltered 
from cold winds by a fence or building— the expo- 
sure being South-east or South. Supposing the 
frame and sash are ready, and that on« has a generous 
heap of stable manure, long and short together, al- 
ready deposited near the site of the bed— with a 
fork, take the manure from the heap and build it up 
iuto another, close along side of where the first one 
stood. Shake out the lumps and mix long and 
short together as equally as may be, and if it ap- 
pears dry, wet it as the heap is built up. Build up 
the pile in a regular cone, and if the weather is cold, 
lay some boards, corn-stalks, or other material 
against it, to keep in the heat. In three or four 
days thrnst a stick into the center of the heap, aud 
if it feels quite warm when withdrawn, repeat the 
oper.ation of rebuilding the pile. In this second 
turning over, eudeavor to bring the manure that 
w.as outside, to the inside of the heap. If the ma- 
nure heats up well, in three or four days it is ready 
to make the bed, but if not, then turn it again and 
continue to do so until the whole is brought into 
a state of active fermentation. The bed is built 
wholly above gronnd, or partly iu an excavation. 
When the ground is well drained, make an exca- 
vation a foot in depth and one foot larger each way 
than the frame. Drive stakes, 3 feet high, .at the 
corners of the excavation, and then put in the 
manure, a forkful at a time, distribute it evenly, 
and iu Layers, beatiug each Layer down with the 
back of the fork. As the mannre is piled above 
the surface, keep the edges even, and be careful to 
have the mass equally compact throughout. The 
bed of m.anure is made from two to three feet in 
thickness, and the heat will be more gradual and 
lasting, if one-fourth to one-half its bulk of forest 
leaves be mixed with the manure. For a bed above 
ground, drive the st.akes and build up the m.anure 
in the same manner. Put on the frame, and place 
iu* it about six inches of good light, r.ather sandy 
soil, put on the sash and rake oifthe edges of the 
bed of the m.auurc to remove loose straw. The 
next day the heat will probably be so great that the 
finger, when thrust into the earth, cannot be held 
there for a long time. Raise the sashes during the 
day, but close at night, and when the heat is steady 
at about 7.5°, sow the seeds in drills .about 3 inehci 
apart. Cabbages, cauliflowers, etc., may go under 
the same sash, .and egg plants, tomatoes, peppers 
and other things, requiring more heat, may be pnt 
together. Keep the bed from becoming overheated, 
by lifting the upper end of the frame, and securing 
it by a block. Wlien the plants are up, they must 
be aired in the day time and be kept fi'oni burning 
by the sun, or from getting too dry. Where only 
a gentle heat is needed, a foot or so of fermenting 
manure may be placed in an excav.ation, the frame 
placed over it, and earth pnt upon the manure to 
receive the seeds. Tomatoes, egg pl.ant, winter 
cherry, and peppers need more heat than do cab- 
bage, cauliflower, lettuce, celery, etc. 
Invei-ted Sods are very convenient for .all plants 
difficult to remove. Cut a tough sod in pieces 
about 3 inches square, place these in the hot-bed or 
cold frame, grass side down, and sow cucumbers, 
melons, early squ.ashes, .and Lima beans on tho 
I 
