9ii 
AMERICAN AGRICUI^URIST. 
[March, 
provided it lias by that time gained sufflcient 
■woodiness of stallv to resist the attacks of tlie 
wire worms, wlucli are sometimes auuoying. 
Tlie subsequent culture of tliis important crop 
may properly be the subject of articles later in 
the season. In the meanwhile, any hints from 
those interested in this matter, which will be of 
benefit to our readers, will be gladly received. 
Boara Fences. 
The questions proposed in the November 
Agricidturist (page 336) have been kindly re- 
sponded to by several experienced fence build- 
ers. Some have answered the questions ; others 
have given figures and descriptions of fences. 
We here call attention to some of these plans. 
Fig. 1. 
Mr. H. T. Richmond, of Chenango Co., N. 
y., presents two, represented by figures 1 and 3, 
which he describes as follows : — " Fig. 1 is a 
straight board fence, 4J feet high, and the ad- 
vantages I claim over the common board fence 
are as follows: It is substantial, tasteful, econo- 
mical, easily built, easily moved, and any length 
may be taken out like a pair of bars. If the 
posts heave out, they can be driven down again. 
No nails are driven through the boards, conse- 
quently the lumber is not injured for any other 
purpose ; and on flowed lands the boards may 
be taken out in the fiill, and put in again in the 
spring. The materials are as follows : Boards, 
chestnut or pine, 11 feet long, G inches wide; 
posts, chestnut or oak, 7 feet long, round or half- 
round, split or square, sharpened and driven 3j 
feet into tlie ground, 10 feet apart ; cleats, chest- 
nut or oak, 4J feet long, 3 inches wide, li inch 
thick; nails, one six-penny nail to each board. 
" Fig. 3 is a straight picket fence, 3 feet 10 
inches high, tasteful and economical. Posts, 6 
feet long, 10 feet apart ; rails, 11 feet long, 3x3 
inches; pickets, 3 feet 10 Jnches long, 3 inches 
wide, 1 inch thick ; 3 seven-penny naiis to each 
length. To rebuild either of these fences where 
decayed, split open the old rotten posts to get 
the nails, and then set up the lengths and fasten 
them with nails and cleats to the new posts." 
Mr. Wm. Day, of Morris Co., N. J., sends a 
sketch of a fence (figure 3), and writes : " In 
Fig. 3. 
answer to j'our queries about fences, I send the 
following as the result of my own experience 
and observation, combining, in ui}- judgment, 
economy, durability, and neatness for a farm- 
fence, in a remarkable degree. I would have 
what is called with us, a running or strip fence. 
" Posts. — In our section of country, chestnut 
timber for Jiosts is preferred to any other. The 
posts are sawed 7 feet long, 4x5 inches at the 
bottom, and 3 x 4 at the top, and all set 4 feet 3 
inches above ground, 8 feet apart. They should 
be cut in winter when the sap is down, for they 
will thus be lighter to cart and handle, and dry 
out quicker. They may be set as they grew, or 
reversed, whichever way they will saw to the 
best advantage. I never believed there was 
gain enough in durability, secured by inverting 
posts, to balance the necessary waste in sawing. 
" Boards. — For strips we employ hemlock, 
sawed one inch thick and IG feet long. Two 
courses of 7-inch strips at the bottom, 5 inches 
apart, and two courses of 5-inch strips, 8 inches 
apart, starting 5 inches from the ground, will 
make the fence 4 feet 3 inches high, as re- 
quired. A cap rail or strip is not necessary 
for strength, but gives the whole a neater ap- 
pearance. If used, it may be sloped to turn 
rain more readily. No fixed rule is necessary 
for this. Each board will require 6 ten-penny 
nails, driven li inches from the ends and edges. 
Break joints by all means, to secure strength, and 
I hold a batten to be absolutely indispensable." 
Mr, Peter H. Storm, of Columbia Co., N. Y., 
writes as follows, sending fig. 4 as the style of 
fence he prefers : " The questions proposed 
could be more readily answered, if the nature 
of the soil were specified, whether stony or 
liable to be thrown up by frost. My experience 
is that common post and board fence is the best 
in every particular. It costs least both in ma- 
terials and labor ; lasts longest with the least 
repair, and if properly constructed, will turn 
an}' stock usually kept on a form. If the soil 
does not throw up by frost, I usually take for 
...^^/^^.yy^^/^y/Z/.^'V'-^i*''"^ 
Fig. 3. 
posts good straight rails, 13 feet long (chestnut 
preferred), and saw them in two. These cost 
here about $10 per hundred, which is 5 cents per 
post, or 10 cents per length. Sharpen them 
and drive with a flat-faced sledge 3^ feet in the 
ground, after making a hole with a crow-bar. 
Some of them may require a little trimming in 
order to present a good fivce to nail upon, which 
is readily done with a common axe. In one 
day two men can make as much and quite as 
durable fence as eight men can in the same 
length of time, if working in the ordinarj^way 
of digging the holes, etc. Let each man have 
a hammer, witli the spaces marked on the 
liandle, so that no mistake may occur in placing 
the boards. I do not batten the ends of the 
boards, nor for common field fence do I cap the 
same, but I think the latter will well repay the 
trouble of sawing the posts otf, which should be 
done at an angle of about 70°. I use the nar- 
row hemlock fence board, which varies from 4 
to 8 inches in width, putting the widest at the 
bottom, about 8 inches above the ground. I use 
fence 8-penny nails, six nails to the board. 
" The very best lime to cut the posts is, I 
think, in the mouth of June, when the bark 
peels off very readily ; they should stand to 
season until the next spring ; but if sharpened 
when cut, and the points placed upward in the 
sun, they will dry sooner and will answer for 
fall setting. I do not usually prepare the posts, 
though I think charring would pay were suf- 
ficient care exercised to prevent the points 
being injured for driving. After the line of 
fence is made, take a plow and turn a few fur- 
rows on either side of the fence, to make a ridge 
Fig. 4. 
to fill the 8-inch space under the lowest board. 
The ground should be compressed with the foot, 
and if necessary the shovel should be used, in 
order to raise a good ridge. It is best, I think, 
to reverse the posts, which should be attended 
to in the sharpening. From 40 to 60 rods can 
be made by two men in a single day. Sliould 
the soil be inclined to heave by frost, raise the 
bank 30 inches, or more if necessary, after the 
posts are driven ; and put but three boards to 
the length. This will make a very pretty as 
well as lasting fence. The lowest board should 
be close to the ground, as the bank will settle." 
Reclaiming Salt Marshes— Tide-gates. 
■ — ■ 
In the February Agriculturist we had an ar- 
ticle upon reclaiming salt marshes, dwelling es- 
pecially upon making the dikes. Now, the dike . 
is very important, but good for nothing without 
a good gate. A Tide-Gate is one constructed 
in connection with a flume of some sort, so that 
when the tide is out, the fresh water which may 
have accumulated, may easily flow off, but 
which will be closed lightly by the rising tide, 
so that no salt water can flow back upon the 
meadow. The size of the flume and gate should 
be sufficient to let ofl', in a short time, all the wa- 
ter that will ever be likely to accumulate during 
severe storms oir thaws ; and concerning this, one 
may easily judge Iiy estimating the surface of 
country drained, and the amount of water 
which flows from springs and brooks discharg- 
ing into the ditches of the reclaimed marsh. 
This may be more easily done by causing all 
the water to flow through a trough or other 
contrivance, while the dike is being built. 
Stone culverts are / 
better than wooden 
trunks, because the ,^ ^ 
muskrats do not fol- 
low stone work, 
while they are al- 
most sure to bur- 
row along by the 
side of, or under 
wood, often letting 
in the salt water in ^ ' 
a j'uinous way ; and as these are the great 
pests of the reclaimer of salt marshes, it is 
best economy to jirovide fully against them. 
We represent in the accompanying illustra- 
tions longitudinal sections of three diflerent 
kinds of tide-gates. The first, fig. 1, shows a 
stone culvert supposed to be about 18 inches 
high, and of the same width. It is built of 
faced stone, laid in cement, and upon a good 
foundation bedded in the hard-pan bottom, or 
