KITCHKN GARDEN AND ORCHARD. 
5 
of them ; the former are removed to be 
planted out in spring ,• the latter being, a 
light crop may be allowed to grow. Next to 
this, a clear space should be reserved as an 
alley or pathway, which is necessary in order 
to carrying on the management of the trees ; 
this should be at least two feet wide. The 
gravel walks should be edged with dwarf box, 
and should be nearly level — a little raised or 
rounded in the centre, but not too much, as 
very much rounded walks are unnecessary, and 
inconvenient to walk on. If box edging is ob- 
jected to, as it is by some, on the ground of 
harbouring slugs and snails, (an objection, by 
the way, which has little force, if the edgings 
are, as they ought to be, kept neatly trimmed,) 
wood, brick, stone, slate, or glass edgings may 
be substituted. The border on the opposite side 
of the walk from the wall, may be narrow, — 
from three to five feet is sufficient ; it is useful 
for many purposes, such as raising salads, 
planting herbs, sowing seeds for transplanting, 
&c, or it may be filled in rotation with such 
crops as strawberries. Between this border 
and the vegetable quarters, a row of fruit trees 
is usually planted ; this may be a row of goose- 
berries and currants, of raspberries, of dwarf 
apple and pear trees ; or apples, pears, and 
plums trained as espaliers ; or, as we prefer, 
dwarf standard pears and apples trained in the 
balloon fashion, alternating with gooseberry 
and currant bushes. The latter two may be 
trained as dwarf standard trees, and are thus 
not only better preserved from the splashing 
of heavy rains, but are more easily covered up 
for preservation from birds, as is desirable with 
a portion of the crop ; indeed some, of the 
currants especially, if well matted up, may be 
kept till Christinas in favourable seasons. The 
vegetable quarters within the row of fruit 
trees, should have a narrow pathway or alley 
all round for the convenience of workmen, and 
for getting from one crop to another. Tem- 
porary alleys for the same purpose may also 
be formed between the crops at the time of 
planting them. 
To be complete, every garden should have 
a supply of water available for the plants, 
without the labour of watering; this is to be 
effected by having an elevated reservoir con- 
stantly supplied, and attached pipes leading 
round the walls, and provided with the neces- 
sary stopcocks. A leathern hose, and the 
labour of a man to direct it, is then all that is 
required for watering the crops. 
nOT-BED DF.rARTJIENT. 
Few, if any, gardens can be managed with- 
out hot-beds, and where hot-beds are employed, 
a special situation should be devoted to them, 
for at best they have a littery and unsightly 
appearance, which makes it extremely unde- 
sirable that they should be made openly in the 
kitchen garden. When a separate fenced-off 
department is devoted to them, their unsiglit- 
liness becomes of little importance, while all 
their advantages are better secured, and the 
management of them is rendered more con- 
venient 
Such a department as is here alluded to is 
commonly called the frame ground. Its extent 
will be regulated by the amount of business 
required to be carried on in it ; but it is well 
to provide space enough, for many untidy 
operations may be carried on here better than 
in any other place, and with less disturbance 
to the order of the garden. It is convenient 
to have the frame ground near the potting 
sheds and yard; in fact, it may form part of 
the latter. A warm sheltered situation should 
be selected, open to the sun on the south and 
east, and entirely without shade at these points, 
but well protected on the north and west, 
as well as on the north-east. The space 
should be well drained, and made dry and firm 
for walking on. Excavations from a foot to 
eighteen inches deep should be made to build 
the beds in ; by this means the drainage from 
them may be more easily collected, and they 
are, besides, less exposed to the influence of 
winds, which have much effect on hot-beds, 
causing the heat to fluctuate often to a very 
great extent. These excavations should range 
in regular order from east to west, so that the 
beds may face the south, (or north if a shady 
bed is required). They should be about three 
feet wider than the hot-bed is required to be 
built, which will leave eighteen inches at front 
and back as a base for the linings or casings 
of hot dung which have to be applied subse- 
quently to maintain a proper heat. The width 
of the bed should be just a few inches wider 
than the frames ; that is, as nearly the size of 
the frame as will admit of the latter standing 
quite firmly on it. Garden frames are usually 
made about live feet wide, so that the exca- 
vation should be about eight feet in width; the 
edge of this should be formed of stout plank, 
kept in place by short piles driven into the 
ground, the upper edge being level with the 
walk ; the bottom should be drained and made 
to slope to the centre, and also slightly towards 
one end, at which a cesspool should be formed 
to receive all the drainings of the dung, which 
may be turned to account as liquid manure. 
The space between the excavations may be 
two feet wide, quite level and firm. Where 
dung pits are used instead of hot-beds, they 
should be built in excavations of the kind 
here explained, for the same reasons; but where 
hot-water pits are substituted for tbem, 
they may be built on level ground. The 
highest beds or pits should be placed at the 
