48 
THE PARSNIP. 
the plants are from six to nine inches apart. 
"When the tops are decaying, and before suf- 
ficient frost comes to damage the roots, they 
should be carefully forked out of the ground, 
and stored away in a cellar or proper storing- 
house, packed in sand, care being taken that 
the temperature of the place be kept very low, 
as otherwise the roots will begin to grow, 
and exhaust themselves long before the spring 
crops are ready to supply the demand. 
Where it is an object to have a supply of 
young carrots at an early period, sowing of 
the red or common horn varieties should be 
made early in January, and repeated every 
three weeks or month, according to the de- 
mand. The earliest sowing should be made 
on a moderate hot-bed, fitted with a frame and 
lights; another to maintain the supply until 
those in the open ground are ready, may be 
made on a similar hot-bed, hooped over so as 
to allow of mats being laid on at night to pro- 
tect the plants ; another sowing of the same 
varieties must be made on a sheltered border 
or other favourable spot until the main crops 
are ready. In general, two or three sowings 
will be found sufficient until the main crop 
has arrived at a useable growth. 
THE PARSNIP. 
The cultivated Parsnip has been originated 
from a weed (Pastinaca sativa) of common 
occurrence on chalky land, in pastures, by road 
sides, and on the sides of hedges, banks, &c. 
It is a biennial plant, and the difference be- 
tween the wild species and the garden variety 
is very slight, except in the greater develop- 
ment of the root, and the smoother state of 
the leaves, in the last. Whether the wild plant 
could be as easily induced to form fleshy roots 
as the wild carrot has done, as shown by M. 
Vilmorin's experiments, in only four genera- 
tions, would be worth trying ; and, as the 
increase to be looked for is only the greater 
development of cellular tissue in organs al- 
ready present, not the production of new, or 
changing of existing organs, as in the cabbage 
tribe and others, a similar result might be 
expected. 
The proper course to pursue in effecting this 
improvement of the wild plant, would be, as in 
the case of M. Vilmorin's experiments with 
the carrot, to sow the seeds in each succeeding 
generation on ground comparatively rich, and 
in the best possible condition as regards cul- 
ture ; and to select from each crop only those 
which indicate some degree of improvement, 
from which to procure seed for the next crop 
By perseverance in this course, there is little 
doubt but that success would follow. 
The varieties of Parsnips are not numerous, 
although a number of different names may be 
found in the dealers' lists. The whole of them, 
we believe, may be reduced to the four follow- 
ing : — 
The common Parsnip has coarse strong 
leaves, and a long tapering root, with the 
crown generally below the surface. 
The Guernsey Parsnip differs from the last 
in its stronger growth and broader leaflets, 
and the roots are also larger, when grown 
under similar conditions, especially if from 
seed saved in Guernsey. 
The hollow-crowned, Parsnip is distin- 
guished from the foregoing varieties by its 
fewer leaves, shorter and more abrupt roots, 
and by the leaves being inserted in a sunken 
pit, as it were, on the crown of the root, which 
is generally level with, or below the surface of 
the soil. These three varieties agree in simi- 
larity of flavour. 
The Turnip-rooted Parsnip is the smallest 
variety of all, with few leaves, and a short 
funnel-shaped root, tapering very abruptly, 
with a very broad shoulder, growing above 
the surface of the soil. This is by far the 
earliest variety, and was introduced from 
France about 1822. It is of a yellower colour 
than the others when dressed, and of very su- 
perior flavour. 
The culture of the Parsnip is very simple, 
little, further being required than to keep the 
crop free from weeds. As this root is seldom 
in request during summer, the general way is 
to sow a main crop about the beginning of 
April, of course in drills about eighteen inches 
apart, and afterwards to thin the plants at the 
successive hoeings, until they stand from six 
to nine inches apart in the rows. At every 
hoeing the ground should be well and deeply 
stirred between the rows, and left light and 
open about the plants. In the autumn, when 
leaves are beginning to decay, the roots should 
be dug up, and partially cleared from the 
mould, care being taken not to bruise the 
roots more than is unavoidable, and after 
lying a little while to dry, they may be stored 
away in a bin of sand, in a cellar or proper 
root-house. In the south of England they are 
often left in the ground until wanted, even 
until they begin to grow in the spring ; and 
very well they keep, being plump, sound, and 
in a much better state than if they had been 
housed, as is generally done. For deep soils 
the first two are preferable, especially the 
second named variety ; for shallow soils, the 
third named; and the fourth will only be used 
by the very curious in vegetables. Those who 
are fond of the sweet flavour of this root will 
find it much increased by roasting in hot ashes, 
or otherwise, and its consistency will also be 
firmer, and not so watery as when they are 
boiled. 
