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THE GREEN-HOUSE. 
Temperature, &c. — This house may be 
kept at about a medium of 45 degrees, not 
allowing more than 10 degrees of range above 
this point. Perfect ventilation must be main- 
tained whenever the weather will permit, 
which, at this season, will be every day, and 
sometimes all night. Syringe the walls, path- 
ways, and every available space, every morn- 
ing, in order to raise a genial moisture ; the 
plants themselves may be syringed lightly, 
both morning and evening, when the air is 
soft and mild. 
Melocacti.— This is the time to grow Melo- 
cacti. Pot them, if they require it, draining 
them very perfectly indeed. If they are put 
into a warm moist atmosphere for a month 
or two, they will make remarkable progress ; 
a hot-bed frame is one of the best of all places 
for this purpose : they must be fairly, but not 
excessively, supplied with water to the soil. 
Succulent plants generally may be more 
liberally watered ; with the majority the ordi- 
nary green-house temperature is sufficient. 
Bulbs. — All the green-house bulbs will now 
be growing or flowering, and will require to be 
kept pretty liberally watered. By no means let 
them get shaded, but give them all the light 
they can possibly have, while they have a green 
leaf remaining. In the case of any of the 
earlier ones which may be approaching ma- 
turity, decrease the supply of water when the 
leaves begin to turn yellow, and finally with- 
hold it altogether. 
Lisianthus Itussellianus. — Autumn-sown 
plants of this fine green-house biennial, which 
have been kept in store-pots, or in small pots, 
should be potted into larger ones, using a 
rough open compost of two parts fibrous peat 
soil, and one part fibrous loam, mixing some 
lumps of charcoal among it while potting, and 
making a very perfect drainage ; these plants 
then require a warm light place in the front 
of a green-house ; or if an intermediate tem- 
perature can be given them, so much the 
better. 
Chrysanthemums. — Prepare these for 
autumn flowering by taking off and potting 
singly some of the off-sets or suckers from 
the old stools ; they may be taken off close to 
the base, without roots, (or with — it is not 
material which,) and placed in a moderate 
warmth until rooted, when they must be 
potted singly, and grown all the summer as 
hardy as possible. 
Hydrangeas. — Plant cuttings of the ter- 
minal shoots of Hydrangeas, both hortensis 
and japonica, to make dwarf- blooming plants 
for flowering next spring ; they must have the 
terminal bud perfect, and two or three pairs 
of leaves only ; i-oot them in a mild heat, and 
grow them through the summer so as to get 
plenty of roots, and to swell the terminal bud, 
but not to make any further growth : these 
plants, next year, should bring one large head 
of bloom, and the whole not more than a foot 
or so in height. 
Violets. — Propagate Neapolitan Violets lor 
flowering in the winter, by planting the run- 
ners in light rich soil : they will make nice 
stocky plants by the autumn. 
Roses in pots. — Some prefer to take up 
strong plants from the open ground — at least 
of all the hardy kinds — and pot them for 
blooming in the new-fashioned way, as potted 
specimen plants ; others — ourselves among the 
number — prefer to grow young plants for this 
purpose in pots from the beginning. Our 
reason for this preference is, that the con- 
ditions of growth in the open ground and in 
pots are so different, that a transfer from the 
former to the latter acts as a check on the 
plants which have been previously growing 
more freely, and quite at liberty, in the open 
ground ; and, although we will not deny that 
handsome and well-bloomed specimens have 
been obtained the other way, yet we prefer the 
other plan because we can best see our way in 
it. When the potting-up plan is adopted, it 
would be well to keep the eye on suitable 
plants, and prevent over-luxuriance until the 
potting time, in the autumn. In following out 
the other plan, take cuttings or layers, accord- 
ing to the habit? of the varieties, as soon as they 
can be had, and grow these young plants care- 
fully on in pots : they will bloom next summer 
tolerably well if well looked to this year. Old 
plants previously bloomed in this way, should 
have been pruned back in autumn, and re- 
potted in rich turfy loam, and will now be 
growing more or less. Cuttings of the half- 
ripened shoots of roses, strike root readily in 
warmth, especially if they are taken off with 
a "heel" of the former shoot. 
Primulas. — Re-pot the plants that were 
sown late last autumn to flower during the 
early part of the following autumn. Autumn- 
flowering specimens may also be had by sow- 
ing the seeds about the middle of March, in 
pots or pans, placing them in a little heat ; 
when the young plants appear, they should be 
removed to a green-house, and, when large, 
enough, pricked out into pots or pans, and 
kept in a shady part of the house : they will 
be strong plants, ready for planting out by the 
end of May. Prepare a frame under a north 
wall, (which is the most suitable situation for 
them,) and plant them out in a compost of 
three-parts leaf-mould, and a little turfy loam 
or sand ; place them about six or eight inches 
apart ; keep them close for a few days, after 
which the covering should be removed en- 
tirely, to allow the dews and rains to fall on 
them. They will require no more attention 
until potting time, but they should have a 
