WINDOW GARDENING THE ROSE GARDEN. 
165 
the other, too, is quite dwarf, and both have 
flowers of intense brilliancy ; these plants 
should be well potted, into nine-inch pots, 
using a rich loamy soil and plenty of drainage; 
water more carefully than usual for some 
time after shifting. Some of the variegated 
plants of this class are very beautiful objects, 
but their blossoms are not as bright-coloured 
as those just alluded to. 
Pelargoniums, or Geraniums, of the fancy 
varieties, may be similarly treated : the free- 
blooming, distinct-coloured varieties should be 
selected for this situation, in preference to 
those of high merit in the fancy. There are 
some old varieties of great merit for situ- 
ations of this kind ; as, for instance, the Ivy- 
leaved, a plant of trailing habit, with gloss}' 
angular ivy-like leaves ; and the Bagshot- 
Park seedling, with finely cut leaves, and 
innumerable small pink flowers. Another 
old variety, called Helen, with agreeably 
scented leaves, and white flowers with fine 
crimson spots, is still a favourite wherever it 
is seen. 
Calceolarias. — These hardly require pots 
so large as Pelargoniums, but otherwise they 
may be treated similarly. C. rurjosa, with yellow 
flowers, and C. Stemarlii, which has flowers 
of a deep maroon colour, are very suitable 
varieties for the window : choose those of 
shrubby habit, and which produce large 
bunches of small flowers. 
Fuchsias do better with plenty of pot room. 
Select a leading shoot, and take this upright, 
and if well managed it will throw out side 
shoots all round, which are to be allowed to 
droop in their natural form. This mode of 
training suits F. globosa well, and it is the 
prettiest of all for the window. Many of the 
hybrids are of stiff upright growth, and will 
not do well this way ; they must be stopped 
when young, and made bushy. The smaller 
kinds, such as F. microphylla and F. reflexa, 
scarcely need any interruption in this way. 
Annuals.— The following sorts are suitable 
for shifting into large pots, as recommended 
above : — Agcratummexicanum, blue; Brachy- 
come iberidifolia, purple ; Campanula Loreyi, 
blue and white varieties ; Clarkia pulchella, 
rose ; Clintonia pulehella, blue, yellow, and 
and white — delights in a moist peaty soil, and 
docs not require large pots ; Collinsia bicolor, 
wiiite and lilac ; C. grandiflora, purple and 
blue; Impatiens glanduligera, (large,) rose; 
Leptosiphon densiflorus, lilac; Lobelia gracilis, 
blue ; Nemophilainsignis, blue ; Pldox Drum- 
mondii, varieties of all colours ; Reseda odorata 
(mignonette) ; Schizanthus pinnatua humilis, 
various ; Tagetes tenuifolia, orange-yellow ; 
Tropa^olum minus, orange. 
Flower- Garden Plan's. — Among these, 
the most suitable for windows, and which may 
be potted now, as above noticed, are the fol- 
lowing : — any of the Verbenas, selecting three 
or four of very distinct colours ; Alonsoa 
incisifolia, scarlet ; Agathrea coelestis, blue ; 
Bouvardia triphylla, scarlet; Gazania uniflora, 
pale yellow ; Heliotropes ; Petunias ; Salvia 
chamredryoides, blue ; Selago fasciculata, pale 
blue ; Senecio elegans, double purple and 
double white, and a variety with handsome 
variegated leaves and double purple flowers. 
Climbers. — Climbing plants are very ele- 
gant, either trained about the windows, or on 
the iron-work of balconies. Of annuals, Tro- 
pceolum aduncum, yellow ; T. minus, orange ; 
and T. majus, various, are among the best. 
Of the green-house, or half-hardy plants there 
is Maurandya Barclayana, purple ; M. alba, 
white, and M. semperflorens, pink ; Lopho- 
spermum erubescens, L.spectabilis, L. scandens, 
L. Hendersonii, all rose-coloured; Calampelis 
scabra, orange ; Cobcea scandens, purple, will 
afford good variety. 
THE ROSE GARDEN. 
Grafting. — This month, even in ordi- 
nary seasons, Roses begin to grow in earnest. 
At the early part of it, grafting should be 
done. The stock should begin to swell at the 
buds ; and whether the graft has begun to 
swell or not, is not of much consequence. The 
first thing to do, is to make a sloping cut, to 
take off the top of the stock, and this cut 
should be very clean, and close to a bud, 
which should be pretty near to the top of the 
slope. The object of this bud is to draw the 
sap up to the highest part of the stock. The 
best way to join the graft to the stock is to 
cut a slit in the stock on one side of the bud, 
not near enough to damage it, and take out a 
piece, with a very sharp knife, of the form of 
a V. There is no difficulty in this, because 
the Rose stock is pithy in the middle, and a 
sharp strong knife will go through one side 
very well three inches down ; a smaller knife 
should now be used to cut the outer part of 
the slit wider, so as to make room for a piece 
of graft, cut witli a sharp edge, of the form of 
a thick-backed knife. The cut must be very 
smooth, so that a graft of the proper form 
should lit close. This slit being on one side 
of the top bud in the stock, which is cut slop- 
ing, will of course be rather lower than the 
bud itself. Now we come to the graft : this 
should be of well-ripened wood ; two eyes 
should be below the top of the stock, and one 
or two above ; this must be cut with a sharp 
edge and a thick back, without the least dis- 
turbance of the bark at the back, because the 
piece must be fitted so that the bark is even 
with the bark of the stock ; when you have 
fitted this to your mind, get bast matting, or 
coarse worsted, to tie it in its place ; and this 
