258 
FLOWER GARDEN. 
It is only the constantly rubbing off all the 
buds but those that are wanted, that makes the 
stems of standard Roses so clear and free from 
shoots ; but there will always be a tendency 
to break out, either at the root or some other 
part, and nothing but removing them young 
can prevent them from greatly retarding the 
growth of the buds. The Roses that have 
been forced, and are getting out of bloom, or 
have done flowering altogether, should be 
plunged in the open ground, but not be 
watered much, because you rather want to 
mature the wood than to increase it. Roses 
blooming in pots should have great care as to 
the shading, and should be liberally watered. 
Seedlings that are large enough should be 
potted off ; those which have filled their pots 
should be shifted into larger, or be planted 
out. Syringe those that are out of doors, to 
clear them from green fly, and fumigate those 
under cover for the same purpose ; and when- 
ever you find among the seedlings any pro- 
mising ones worth the trouble, bud them on 
strong briars, to hasten the bloom a season ; 
they can but be thrown away if they dis- 
appoint you. But only such as indicate novelty 
by their habit and foliage are worth the 
trouble ; for instance, anything that differs 
materially from what we already possess — any 
Moss Roses, or any that possess real novelty 
in the stems, leaves, or manner of growth. 
Weed the beds of seedling roses, and stir the 
earth between them, and be careful of any 
that, on blooming, seem better than we possess. 
At all times remove from old plants or seed- 
lings any superfluous branches ; never let the 
shoots crowd each other, and where any rose 
tree has very vigorous branches, they may 
be topped, if you desire to encourage side 
shoots, or prevent the strongest from injuring 
the growth of the weakest. Look well to the 
former month's directions at all times, because 
there is a good deal that applies to all times 
and seasons. If you get sorts to bud from 
before you can use them, keep them, like 
cuttings, in wet sand, with a glass over them. 
FLOWER GARDEN. 
Anemones, when planted in spring, will now 
be advancing to a blooming state, and should 
be freely watered between — not over — the 
plants, and shaded from the sun. 
Annuals. — Thin those sown out in the 
borders, where they are to bloom, for they do 
not flower well if left too thick. Plant out the 
half hardy ones, raised in frames or on beds, 
for transplanting. It is as well to sow a few 
more of some of the best, as the seed is not 
very expensive, and sometimes the plants 
prove very valuable, for keeping up a succes- 
sion of bloom. 
Auriculas. — These are better not potted yet, 
as the change sets them growing, and they 
bloom in the autumn, which spoils the bloom 
at the proper season. Examine the drainage, 
and pick off dead leaves. Seedling plants 
should be transplanted, or potted off singly. 
Bedding plants. — Much of the beauty of 
flower beds depends on keeping the plants 
close to the ground, and inducing them to 
grow into a compact form. Small wooden 
pegs are often used to fasten down the shoots, 
but a neater plan is to take small strips of 
matting, and passing them over the shoot, 
press both ends together in the soil ; this 
holds them firmly down, and is simpler and 
neater than pegs, and more easily done. Stop 
all the strongest of the shoots pretty freely for 
a month or so forward. 
Biennials. — Sow on poor ground, and trans- 
plant them also to poor soil, to stand the 
winter. Those previously sown may be 
pricked out. 
Bulbs that have done blooming, should be 
taken up, and laid in the reserve ground 
till their leaves turn yellow, when they may 
be dried. If they are allowed to stand till the 
leaves get yellow, they may be dried at once. 
Those which may thus be treated are the 
Hyacinth, Crocus, Snowdrop, Ranunculus 
(early), Tulip (early), Anemones (early), 
Narcissus, &c. 
Carnations. — Use every means to keep the 
vermin — earwigs and wireworms — from these 
plants : earwigs must be trapped and taken 
by any kind of hollow trap, which they enter 
for shelter : wireworms must be looked for at 
the root, and destroyed, if a plant is found to 
fail ; this is the only way of keeping them 
from attacking other plants. Tie a slip of 
matting or worsted round the buds when they 
are ready to burst. In dry weather they need 
some water, but not frequently. Tie up the 
flower stems, but it must be done loosely. 
Chrysanthemums. — Give these repeated 
shifts, so as to get them strong before blooming 
time comes. Stop the shoots occasionally. 
Cut down the stems of any of the early 
flowering plants that are gone out of bloom, 
and remove them ; this should be done before 
they become unsightly. 
Dahlias. — Get these planted out as speedily 
as possible. The stakes should be put down 
when they are planted : be careful not to tie 
them too tight, as the stems swell very rapidly, 
and would be injured by it. 
Guernsey Lilies. — Take up the bulbs of 
these, and separate them if necessary, and 
replant them at once ; they succeed well on a 
warm border, in light soil. Transplant every 
second year. 
Lawns. — The beauty of these depends on 
following up with untiring perseverance the 
operation of mowing : mowing should always 
