;>oo 
THE FLOW Ell GARDEN. 
frame. Those roses intended to be left in 
beds, and seedling roses especially, should have 
litter of some kind laid in the alleys between 
the beds, so as to cover suddenly against frost. 
Remove standard roses and rose-bushes, and 
procure new ones for all the planting required. 
The end of this month is late enough for 
almost all the kinds to be purchased at nurseries; 
although when they are well established in gar- 
dens, they frequently retain their foliage for 
a long time after this period. In choosing roses 
at nurseries, select those with strong ripened 
wood, and branches pointing outwards all round 
the plant, and, if possible, get those which 
have been removed within three years, as when 
they have been longer, they strike deep roots, 
which are. lost at the moving, and so consider- 
ably check the growth, as to make it necessary 
to reduce the head very much, and even then 
the growth may not be free. In transplanting 
these trees, the roots must be cut smooth, whcre- 
ever they are torn or bruised. Some fresh 
loam, or dung, may be dug into any ordinary 
garden for all roses on their own bottoms, but 
almost any ground will do for roses on the 
common brier, for it is a free-growing sub- 
ject, even when choked up in a quickset hedge, 
or a dry bank ; so that the great anxiety to 
make very rich compost for standard roses is 
not altogether necessary. Nevertheless, it is 
wise, in a general way, to let all rosetums be 
adapted for the purpose ; but the brier is so 
rapid a grower, that even on poor soil it car- 
ries the most vigorously growing roses. Cut- 
tings may be still put in pots, and struck under 
glass, or even crowded into pots, and put under 
the stage in the green-house, or into cold 
pits or frames. In all other respects, look for 
directions to past months, and do every thing 
that has not been done already, such as potting 
off struck cuttings. Each month brings its 
own work, which is very similar from month 
to month, the greater part of the year, partly 
through the varied seasons in which the dif- 
ferent kinds bloom, and which keeps a suc- 
cession of similar labours necessary through 
the whole spring and summer, and part of the 
autumn. In all cases where cuttings are in 
the pots, the soil in which they are growing 
must not be allowed to dry, for it would be 
often fatal to the newly forming fibres. At 
the end of this month you may cut out all the 
small spindly branches from the entire col- 
lection, and shorten all the very long branches 
to half their length, or rather less, so that the 
wind may not have such hold of their heads 
to disturb their fastenings, and eventually their 
roots. See to their ties and stakes, that they 
may be well secured for the winter. The 
taking of potted plants for forcing into the 
gieen-house, preparatory to their going into 
heat, commences fairly this month ; and the 
same roses that were forced last year, if pro- 
perly ripened, as they ought to be, are the best 
for forcing this. Let them be pruned to two 
or three eyes on each strong shoot, and cut 
out all the weak ones. 
TIIE FLOWER GARDEN. 
Anemones and Ranunculuses, if not planted 
last month, may be, got in now early ; they 
will help to produce effect in the early spring. 
Auriculas. — These plants should have air 
in mild weather, but must not be much ex- 
posed if it is cold. When very frosty, cover 
the frame at night. Eemove the dead leaves ; 
stir the surface of the soil ; and be very mode- 
rate in the use of water. 
Beds and borders may be dug up if not 
already done, and kept very neat. 
Bidbs. — The beds of the choicer bulbs, such 
as Hyacinths, Tulips, Narcissus, &c. should 
be protected in severe weather ; it is a good 
plan to lay on three or four inches of decayed 
leaf mould, or even dry sawdust, or any mate- 
rial of that kind ; this must however be re- 
moved in the spring. Protection by means 
of hoops and mats is perhaps better, but it is 
less neat and convenient. Any of the kinds 
may still be planted at the beginning of the 
month. 
Carnations. — These require to be very 
carefully watered, and to have all the air that 
the state of the weather will permit being 
given to them. Decaying leaves should be 
removed. Picotees require precisely the same 
treatment. 
Composts. — The various kinds of soil and 
decayed manure required for potting in the 
spring should be frequently turned over in 
frosty weather, and so placed as not to get 
soddened with wet. 
Dahlias. — The roots may be taken up, and 
moderately dried by exposure in a dry shed, 
and then stored in any dry place free from 
frost for the winter. 
Lawns. — The lawns and grass plots should 
be frequently poled in dry weather to distri- 
bute the worm casts, and then rolled ; they 
should also be swept regularly, at least once 
a week, so as to be kept perfectly clean. 
Pansies. — Those in the borders should have 
the soil pressed about them so as to fix them 
firmly in the ground, but this must be done 
when it is dry. Those in pots in the frames 
must be moderately watered, and should get 
abundance of air. 
Pinks. — The beds of these plants should be 
looked to, and if the frost or worms have 
loosened any of the plants they should be set 
firm again. When the soil is dry they are 
the better for being gone regularly over, and 
pressed in firm. 
Shntbs and Trees may be planted in mild 
