166 
FUCHSIAS AS SHOW PLANTS. 
seedling plants 2s. 6d. per dozen, and those 
one foot high Is. 6d. each (1848). 
5. Cupressits pendula, Thunberg (pendu- 
lous Cypress). — Leaves imbricated in four 
rows, keeled, adpressed, clasping the stem, 
very close, scale-like. Cones about the size 
of the foregoing, obtuse, eight-angled. 
A graceful plant, introduced from Chinese 
Tartary at the commencement of the present 
century. By many botanists it is reckoned 
a mere variety of C. torulosa, which it rivals 
in elegance of outline. It is hardy in the cli- 
mate of Britain, but is not yet common in 
collections. There is a fine specimen at Kew. 
Plants one foot high are 10*'. Qd. each (1848). 
6. Cupressus thurifera, Humboldt, Bon-* 
pland and Kunth (thuriferous Cypress). — 
Leaves ovate-lanceolate, acuminate pointed, 
scarcely a line in length ; those on the young 
shoots about one-third of a line long. 
In Mexico, where this species is found at a 
height of 5,000 feet above the sea, it forms a 
fine tree, growing from fifty to sixty feet 
high. It was introduced to England in 1837. 
There is a plant of this species in the arbore- 
tum of the Horticultural Society. It is con- 
sidered to be hardy, and will probably attain 
to the height of twenty-five feet in this 
country. Plants are to be obtained of Messrs. 
"Whitley & Osborn, Fulham. 
7. Cupressus bacciformis, Willdenow (berry- 
bearing Cypress). — This is a hardy tree, grow- 
ing twenty feet high, and was introduced in 
1818. 
8. Cupressus Lambertiana, of gardens 
(Lambert's Cypress). — A beautiful fastigiate- 
headed tree, named in honour of A. B. Lam- 
bert, Esq. 
9. Cupressus Uhdeana, Booth (Udhe's Cy- 
press). — Cultivated in the Fulham Nursery, 
and represented to be hardy. 
10. Cupressus Toumefortii, Audibert 
(Tournefort's Cypress). — Cultivated since 
1834. 
11. Cupressus religiosa, of gardens (sacred 
Cypress). — Supposed to be sufficiently hardy 
to bear the climate of England. 
Little is known respecting the last five 
named species, which have not been seen by 
the writer. 
FUCHSIAS AS SHOW PLANTS. 
The most extraordinary fact connected with 
the cultivation of this attractive plant is, that 
not one specimen in a hundred shown at pub- 
lic exhibitions is at all well grown ; these are 
driven along at steam rate into every form 
but the right one, and most of them hang 
lopping about, appearing as if half dead for 
want of water, simply because, although a 
greenhouse plant of a hardy description, ro- 
bust, and capable of bearing even a little 
rough weather, it is treated as if it were a 
stove plant, and pushed along at all hazards. 
Now, the fuchsia wants no more heat than a 
heath or a Botany Bay plant, but because it 
will bear it, every body gives warmer cul- 
ture. Cuttings struck in autumn, or even 
spring, are driven along to form six-feet 
plants in a few months. One of the effects 
of this is lanky, uncouth growth, with limbs 
and leaves few and far between, incapable of 
supporting themselves. Another effect is, that 
the plant no sooner encounters the change from 
its nursery to the open air, than it exhibits 
every sign of distress, and fairly flags. Now, 
it is greatly to be regretted that any plant 
should be spoiled ; but to see a whole family 
ill used, to see all the exhibitors failing in the 
same point, to see fuchsias invariably the 
worst things at a show, is doubly vexatious. 
How, then, ought fuchsias to be cultivated ? 
Why, according to the present system, potted 
in highly-manured compost, placed in an in- 
termediate house, or even a stove with some 
folks, watered lavishly, and often shifted from 
one sized pot to another, or put in a large pot 
at first, so as to prevent the necessity of shift- 
ing. This will produce fuchsias as they are 
now"shown, but let other practice be adopted. 
They should be struck in the greenhouse, 
potted and grown in pots out of doors with- 
out covering all the summer, stopped or 
otherwise according to the habit of the plant, 
watered carefully and regularly when required, 
and kept in moderately good form by pinching 
in here and there a vigorous branch, or any 
shoot inclined to ramble. When the cold 
weather sets in, or is about to set in, remove 
them under cover for slight protection, but 
give no heat ; keep them from frost, but that 
is all. The leaves will fall, the plant will 
want no more water, and nothing more need 
be done for them than keeping them from 
severe frosts. In the early part of the year 
the plants will begin to swell their buds a 
little, when you must prune them to some 
form, either very bushy or pyramidal, but this 
depends on the habit of the plant : make due 
allowance for the length of growth of the 
shoots, and cut accordingly. The old shoots 
should be cut back tolerably close if the plant 
is to grow pyramidal, but when cut, be quite 
as particular not to allow them to grow too 
fast. On no account have a fire if you can 
cover up the frame or house to keep the frost 
out without one, for it is very desirable that 
they grow slow and steady, and be not driven 
with fire heat. It would not matter how low 
the temperature was, so it were safe above 
32°; but as the season advances, the natural 
increasing heat will require them to have all the 
light and air that can be given, and the plants 
