THE CYCLAMEN. 
343 
flowers, may be had in blossom year after 
year at an unnatural season, especially if that 
be, as in this case it would be, in the winter, 
while in each succeeding year they receive a 
less amount of heat and the other agents of 
vegetable excitement than was given to that 
at the first. This may be so to some extent ; 
but the fact is, that a certain amount of 
heat, light, and moisture, is essential ; and 
anything short of this amount will prove in- 
sufficient. The real advantage of the prac- 
tice just recommended, and what is meant by 
the statement that a less amount of forcing is 
requisite in each succeeding year, is this : the 
plant grows more readily, more freely, under 
the conditions it is subjected to, and, con- 
sequently, there is less "forcing" required to 
produce the result, though the actual condi- 
tion it is subjected to may be nearly the same. 
It, however, takes some few years to establish 
the precocious habit in any plant, though some 
take it up more readily than others. 
Having explained this matter, we may pro- 
ceed to notice the mode, or at least one mode, 
by which the Cyclamen persicum may be 
made to bloom earlier than usual. We must 
start with a strong root, arrived at a mature 
and blooming age, for such only are fit for 
forcing ; and provided there is a choice of 
plants, those should be taken which go first 
out of bloom. Suppose this to be early in 
March, then the plants should be set in a 
situation perfectly exposed to sunlight and 
air, in order that the foliage may be well 
ripened. This treatment may be continued 
for about a month, the plants being during 
this time regularly watered. Then they must 
be kept somewhat drier, with the view of rest- 
ing them, but the soil must not be allowed to 
become thoroughly dried, nor should the 
leaves be suffered to become flaccid. By the 
beginning of May the quantity of water may 
be again increased, the plants being placed in 
the warmest position the greenhouse affords, 
in order to excite them a little into growth. 
As soon as they begin to make any new 
growth, the plants should be shifted into 
larger pots in very rich soil, and then set 
into a frame where they may have plenty of 
air and full exposure to the sun. Watering 
must on no account be neglected, although 
nothing like saturation of the soil should 
ever take place. Some persons recommend 
to plant out the roots during this period into 
an unshaded bed of rich soil in the kitchen- 
garden ; this bed should contain a consider- 
able proportion of vegetable soil and sandy 
peat earth, which forms a good compost for 
them. For pot culture, however, a rich com- 
post for these plants may be compounded 
thus :— one part good light loam, two parts 
light turfy peat rather sandy, one part good 
leaf mould, half a part broken charcoal ; no 
additional sand will be required if the loam 
and peat used be light and sandy. 
Whether planted out, or grown vigorously 
in pots placed in frames, the plants will have 
advanced considerably by Michaelmas ; and 
then in the former case will require to be 
taken up and potted. This must be done 
carefully, the balls of earth being kept as 
entire as possible, and the plants put into pots 
large enough to take their roots without 
cramping or injuring them. In either case 
the plants may now be set in a light airy 
position in the greenhouse or frame until 
wanted for forcing. In many cases the plants 
will be already showing blossom. 
The developing of the blossoms is another 
matter. The proper situation for them is an 
intermediate stove, that is, a cool stove, 
where an average day temperature of 60°, 
and a night temperature of 45°, is kept up. 
Being dwarf tufted plants, they ought always 
to be kept near the glass and in a very light 
position. Into this temperature and situation 
a few of the plants should be brought in suc- 
cession at intervals of about three weeks. 
When fully in bloom, the plants may be taken 
to the drawing-room, or placed in the con- 
servatory, but in the former situation they 
must not be kept too long at one time, or the 
foliage will become sickly, which is very in- 
jurious to the general health of the plants. 
It is better to change them frequently, than 
thus to impair their vigour. 
TREATMENT OF THE HARDY KINDS. 
The foregoing instructions in cultivation 
refer chiefly to the Cyclamen persicum. To 
this species C. repandum most nearly assimi- 
lates. Such of the remainder as may be cul- 
tivated in pots may have similar treatment in 
all respects, except that they are more hardy, 
and should have a greater degree of exposure 
to air. In fact, an airy frame or pit suits 
them best at all times. 
Probably all the kinds beside those just 
named are hardy enough to grow in the open 
border ; but the winter and very early spring 
flowering ones are inappropriate for such a 
situation, because their blooms would in all 
probability be destroyed by frosts. The whole 
of the remaining kinds, namely those whose 
blooms are produced in summer or autumn, 
form beautiful objects under favourable con- 
ditions of growth. These conditions are : — 
a cool shady situation — not where tree roots 
rob the soil of its moisture ; a soil in which 
peat earth preponderates ; and liberal water- 
ings in continued dry weather. These hardy 
kinds, like the rest, are propagated by seeds. 
