SELECT ROSES, AND THEIR MANAGEMENT. 
489 
or peat earth, such as American plants 
grow in, is of the greatest benefit ; or any 
such materials as will alter the texture of the 
soil, will be beneficial. In light sandy soils, 
good strong loam, or even clay, may be used 
with advantage ; but it will be requisite to 
get it well pulverised before using, which may 
be effected by exposing it on the surface of 
the ground, either in summer or winter. If 
it is laid on in summer, so as to become well 
dried by the heat of the sun, the first rains 
that fall will cause it to run like lime, when 
it should be dug in, and well mixed with the 
soil. If it is laid on in winter, the frost will 
disintegrate it, after which take the first 
drying weather that comes, and dig it in, well 
mixing it with the soil. In all cases, make 
the soil good, so that the plants may grow 
luxuriantly, and dry, so that the wood may 
get well ripened in the autumn. 
MANURING. 
The dung that has been used in a hotbed, 
if not too much exhausted, is as good as any 
manure for a fresh plantation ; but for ma- 
nuring those that have been planted several 
years, something stronger is required. In 
large gardens, where plenty of hot dung is 
in use, a drain should be made from every 
place where it is laid, in order to collect the 
water that runs from it ; and care should be 
taken that no other water gets mixed with it, 
to weaken it, as it should be used of the fine 
dark colour of treacle. Where water of this 
description can be procured, it may be used 
at any time, by pouring it over the surface of 
the ground, as wide as the roots are likely to 
extend; and it should be used while quite 
fresh. If this liquid cannot be had in suffi- 
cient quantity, any other strong liquid manure 
may be used in the same way. Night-soil, 
diluted with water, makes an excellent stimu- 
lant. Perhaps, the very best manure is 
pigeons' dung ; but as this can only be had 
in limited quantities, it must be used very 
sparingly ; break it small, and sow it on the 
surface of the ground, lightly stirring it in 
with a spud, and leave the rain to wash it 
into the soil. All roses ought to have some 
manure once every year ; the quantity 
must depend on the nature of their growth, 
whether strong or weak. 
PLANTING. 
When the ground for new plantations has 
been well prepared, the planting may be 
proceeded with, if the ground is dry enough 
to work well. Do not place the plants 
deeper than they have been planted in the 
nursery, as deep planting has a tendency 
to make them throw up suckers. November 
is the best month in the whole year to trans- 
plant the hardy kinds of roses ; nevertheless 
they may be safely planted from that time till 
the middle of March. When roses that have 
died are to be replaced, take all the old soil 
and put in fresh, as roses, like many other 
things, do best in entirely fresh soil. After 
planting, every standard, and such of the 
dwarfs as are strong enough to be blown 
about, should be fastened to a stake, to keep 
it firm. Iron stakes, although by far the 
most neat in appearance, are objectionable, as 
they do not hold in the ground well. The 
second year after planting, they should be 
sufficiently established to do without stakes ; 
if they are, remove the stakes, and let them 
do without : they will look neater. Some of 
the very long shoots may have about one-third 
of their length taken off, at planting-time, 
which will lessen the chances of their being 
blown about. Planting, tying, &c. being 
completed, stir the surface of the ground with 
a spud, and leave it till spring. 
PRUNING. 
From the beginning to the middle of March 
(as the season may be early or late), is the 
best time to prune the hardy kinds of roses : 
from the beginning to the middle of April 
will be soon enough for tender kinds — such 
as Noisettes, Isle de Bourbons, Teas, and 
Chinas. When the pruning is going on, any 
moss or lichen should be cleared from the 
stem or head ; and when it is finished, and 
the rubbish removed, the ground should be 
dug, the surface being laid up rough, for the 
sun and wind to pulverise it ; the longer it 
remains in this rough state the better, even if 
it be till the flowering season is at hand, as 
the going over the plants to pick off the mul- 
titudes of insects that infest them, taking off 
the suckers, hoeing, and other necessary ope- 
rations, are sure to work the surface fine 
enough. Special directions for pruning will 
be given hereafter. 
INSECTS. 
These pests must be constantly picked off. 
The buds must be watched as soon as they 
begin to burst in the spring, to see if 
they are eaten by a species of beetle, which 
is the first that will attack them, particularly 
during cold north-easterly winds, with a 
bright sun ; it will often eat the bark as well 
as the buds. This beetle maybe found in the 
ground, near the stem of the tree, where the 
soil is lying in rough lumps. A good trap 
for it may be made by hollowing out a place 
in the ground, round the stems of the trees 
that are attacked, laying some small dry 
lumps of mould, stones, and such things, level 
with the surface, and on the top a good-sized 
piece of tile, or broken pot, to keep the w r hole 
