500 
SELECT ROSES, AND Til KIR MANAGEMENT. 
Clam Wendel, arc very fine when grown 
well ; they require a great deal of sun and 
air, or the colours will not be bright and clear. 
PROPAGATION. 
Cuttings of the Hybrid Perpetual, Isle de 
Bourbon, Tea-scented, China, Noisette, Ma- 
cartney, Microphylla, and the climbing roses, 
strike readily in a hot-bed, with a gentle heat, 
during July and August. Take as cuttings 
the half ripened shoots, with a heel where 
practicable; if not, cut the shoots even through 
close up to a joint, and plant them firmly 
round the sides of the pot, in sandy loam ; 
give a little sprinkle of water, and put them in 
the frame. The care they want is, to see they 
do not get too dry or too wet, to shade from the 
sun, and when the air is not too drying, to 
give a very little air. As soon as they are 
rooted, pot them separately into very small 
pots, set them in a gentle heat till rooted round 
the pot, when they must be gradually hardened 
to bear sun and air. They will require to be 
kept in a greenhouse, or in a pit that is pro- 
vided with fire heat in some way, for they are 
very apt to damp off, when covered up in cold 
frames during long-continued frosts. The 
same classes may also be struck under hand 
glasses, with a gentle bottom heat, during the 
same months. 
Cuttings put in about the middle of Octo- 
ber, in a warm, sunny, dry situation, under 
hand-glasses, will strike root in the course of 
the winter ; they merely want all the air they 
can have in mild weather. If the weather is 
damp, the glasses should be tilted up with 
small pots. During frost, the glasses must 
be shut close, and covered. 
Cuttings prepared in any of the above ways, 
if planted out into beds about the middle of 
May, or a little later should the season be 
backward, will flower beautifully during the 
latter part of the summer and autumn ; and 
if protected in winter, will flower finely all the 
following season. In planting, take care to 
ranjre those of the same habit together. 
Grafting. — This mode of propagating roses 
is only fit for dwarfs, and maybe, practised on 
the budded stocks that have failed the previous 
season, or on such as were planted very early 
in autumn. Select the scions before they 
begin to push at all in spring ; name them, 
and "lay them in" under the shade of trees, 
or close under a wall at the north side. The 
middle or end of April, the period when the 
sap is in full flow, is the best time for the 
operation. Clear away the soil from the 
stocks down to the fibres ; cut the stocks off 
as the grafting proceeds, but do not let them 
be cut off many minutes before they are 
grafted. Rind-grafting, when it can be done, 
is best, but common whip-grafting will do 
very well. As soon as they are done, close 
them over with clay or grafting wax, and 
draw the soil about them so as to cover the 
wax or clay, as they will sometimes root out 
of the scions. When they have grown enough 
to require tying up, put a stick to them long 
enough to serve for their growth throughout 
the season. 
Budding. — This is the best mode of pro- 
pagating roses for standards or dwarfs, when 
they are wanted on stocks. It may be done 
at any time during the summer, when the 
bai'k of the stocks will " run " well, — that is, 
separate easily from the wood ; but if the 
stocks are the least inclined to be dry, or the 
bark is found to adhere to the wood, they 
should have a soaking of water at the root, at 
least twelve hours before they are worked. 
The best way to get the water down to the 
roots, is to break up the surface of the soil 
with a light spud, and draw the soil away on 
every side into a ridge, so as to form a basin 
round the stems, when they may be thoroughly 
watered with manure water sufficient to get to 
the roots ; if this is once well done, they will 
not require any more. In selecting the buds, 
choose young free-grown shoots of moderate 
size, on which the buds are well formed, and 
from the ripened part of such shoots, with a 
very sharp knife, clear off the leaves (leaving 
about an inch of the footstalk) and the thorns, 
without bruising the bark ; then take off the 
bud, in doing which, hold the shoot in the left 
hand, and the knife in the right ; place the 
thumb under the shoot where the bud is to be 
taken off, and begin to cut about three quarters 
of an inch above the bud; draw the knife about 
half way through the shoot and clean under 
the bud, and bring the knife out about an 
eighth of an inch below the bud ; then, with 
the point of the knife just remove the bark 
from the wood, and cut the bark and the wood 
clean asunder, leaving the small piece of wood 
in the eye without injury, and even with the 
inside bark, so that when it is inserted in the 
stock, it may touch the wood of the stock. 
Next, with the point of the knife open the 
bark of the stock ; select the smoothest part 
of the shoot, begin the cut nearest the base of 
the shoot, and cut towards the point ; let the 
cut be long enough to admit of inserting the 
bud without a cross cut ; raise the bark on 
each side of the cut, either with the flat end 
of the knife handle, or the thumb nail, just 
sufficient to let in the bud, which must then 
be pushed down close to the stock, and bound 
over with a small piece of bass, or, what is 
better, some carpet worsted ; begin to bind at 
the base of the shoot, and finish above the 
bud ; in binding, close down the bark on each 
side, and leave the eye clear. In about a 
month the bandage may be loosened, and in 
