THE BEAUTIES OF THE ROSE. 
501 
about two months may be taken off altogether. 
The advantage of having only one cut to let 
in the bud, over the plan of budding with a 
cross cut, is very considerable, as the tops of 
the shoots do not require cutting off, and con- 
sequently there is no check in their growth, 
and no accumulation of sap under the bud ; 
so that the bud is not so likely to start in 
autumn, and the plant will be altogether of a 
more vigorous habit. 
It is best to insert two or three buds in 
each tree intended for standards. It will 
sometimes happen, when buds are brought 
from a distance, that the wood will not part 
freely from the bark ; in that case, pare the 
buds down as close and even as possible with- 
out removing the inner wood, and insert them 
in that state; though they do not make the 
neat union that those do which have had the 
wood taken out, and are very liable to be 
blown off during the first summer's growth. 
After the bandages are taken off, they will 
require no attention till the following spring ; 
when, about the beginning of March, the tops 
must be cut off to within about four eyes of 
the bud ; cut off also all the eyes on each shoot 
about the bud, except that at the top, which 
may be allowed to grow two or three inches, 
when its top must be taken off; and as it 
grows through the summer, it must be nipped 
whenever it has made a little advance in 
growth. The object of keeping this shoot 
alive and growing is, that when they are cut 
back the foilowing season, they may be cut 
close to the shoot of the bud; and the wood 
being alive will callus over, and so form an 
entire living plant, which is seldom the case 
when the shoots are cut back to the bud at 
once. "When the buds have made a growth 
of four or six joints, pinch off the tops ; this 
will cause them to throw out lateral shoots. 
If, as they grow, there is any chance of the 
wind blowing off the heads, they must be tied 
up. Nothing more remains to be done but 
the ordinary w^ork, as the seasons come round. 
"When very fine heads are wanted in the 
case of standard roses, in preference to the 
bloom for the first season or two, the trees 
must iiave peculiar management. Supposing 
each plant has two or three buds that are 
growing : select the one that is most likely to 
make the finest head, and pinch off the top of 
the shoot when it has made a growth of about 
four joints in length ; it will soon push out 
laterals, which should be allowed to grow on 
for the rest of the season. The shoots from 
the other buds may be allowed to grow for 
the season, unless they are very thick, when 
some may be taken off. The second season, 
those shoots that are not wanted nmst be 
cut off close to tlie stock, and the stock cut to 
where the head is formed. The shoots that 
were made last season may be shortened to 
three or four eyes from where they started, if 
they are very strong-growing kinds ; but to 
within two or three eyes, if they are of weakly 
habit. Should any of them afterwards throw 
out very strong shoots, these must be topped. 
Of course, when they are cut back so hard, 
there will be little or no bloom the second 
season ; but you have a finely-formed head, 
and the third season there will be plenty of 
bloom. At all times care must be taken to 
remove, or tie in a proper direction, all irre- 
gular-growing shoots. 
Layering. — This is done about Midsummer, 
on the slioots of the current season. When 
these shoots are long enough, trim off some 
of the lower leaves ; draw them to the ground, 
so as to see at which joint it will be most con- 
venient to make a tongue (which is a piece of 
the shoot at one of the buds, slit about half 
through) ; the bud you intend for the tongue 
should be uppermost, when the shoot is drawn 
to the ground. With a sharp knife, begin 
about the eighth of an inch below the eye ; 
cut nearly half way through the shoot, sloping 
towards the eye, and, with a steady turn of 
the knife, cut towards the top of the shoot ; 
let the cut be about an inch or a little more in 
length. Then gently bend the shoot at the 
place where the cut is made ; bring the top 
upright, and the tongue pointing down; make 
a hole in the ground with a trowel, to let in 
the shoot ; peg it down firmly, with a small 
peg ; replace the soil, and make it firm. Du- 
ring the summer these layers will form roots, 
and in the following spring they may be taken 
off and planted in beds. After one or two 
seasons' growth, they will be strong enough 
to transplant wherever they may be wanted. 
In conclusion, let it be observed, that 
whether roses are grown or purchased, it is 
very injudicious to cut them to bloom the first 
season after planting ; it is much better to 
get a good head first, and leave the bloom to 
chance, until a good-shaped head is obtained. 
Always keep the plants clear of suckers, weeds, 
and vermin ; and by maintaining the soil in 
good heart, if the subsoil is dry, the merest 
tyro in rose culture will be successful. 
THE BEAUTIES OF THE EOSE. 
We have had rose books enough, in all 
conscience; and yet another appears,* with all 
the freshness of originality, and much more 
value for the money than is usual. Messrs. 
Curtis & Co. of Moorend, near Bristol, have 
commenced a quarterly w^ork, at halt-a-crown 
a part, each containing four splendid portraits 
» Curtis's Beauties of the Eose. Part I. 4 to 
London : Groombr.dge. 
