1867.] 
AMERICAN AGRICULTURIST. 
163 
Potatoes. — See hiuts given hut month. Late plant- 
ed potatoes often, escape rot, but are sometimes 
the 'worst victims. The newer kinds, as a rule, are 
least affected, but they succumb after a few years. 
Cows. — Consider the advantages of having beets 
or parsnips to feed the cows before the pastures are 
ready for grazing, and make sure of some for next 
year. New milch-cows need succulent food before 
grass comes, but do not hurt the pastures for all 
summer by feeding them off too early in the season. 
Calves may be let run as soon as they can get a 
"bite" of grass, and being fed regularly besides, 
they will pick up a good part of their living and 
improve fast on skim-milk and a little meal. 
Beeves must not be allowed to fall away in the 
least, but their meal, if anything, be increased. At 
first, let them have but an hour or two a day at 
grass, making no difference in their feed. Gradu- 
ally increase the grass and decrease the meal. 
Horses and Working Oxen, should have well fitting 
harness and yokes, long noons to feed, and hard 
work every day. Plan to keep them employed or 
they grow soft, and you lose the cost of their keep. 
Steep. — Shear, without washing, in May, the ear- 
lier the better, if you can give the naked animals 
protection against storms. There is much less risk 
of hurting the sheep, than is incurred by washing 
them. The flock should be thoroughly and carefully 
" tagged," and the clip may be tub-washed in a 
Doty washing machine, to advantage. Thus a large 
quantity of excellent mammal liquid is saved for 
the garden, and with merinos, this is quite an object, 
on account of the great amount of yolk, rich in 
potash. Do not change suddenly from hay to grass. 
Soiling. — Sow com in drills 2 feet to 2'^ feet 
apart, dropping about 13 kernels to the running 
foot, on well manured sod land, laid flat. This will 
furnish either green fodder for cows in dry weather, 
or it may be cut and cured for winter feed, for 
either of which it will pay better than almost any 
fodder crop. Sow as early as the loth, and keep 
the ground stirred until the crop shades the ground. 
Birds. — Protect them on every part of the farm. 
Implements. — Be in time about ordering those you 
need, secure strength when that is needed, but 
lightness and durability combined for all hand 
tools. Every farmer needs a good horse rake, of 
which there are several, a good horse ha3'-fork, (sec 
page 176), and it will pay most farmers to have a 
mowing machine, aud'a eombiued mower and 
reaper, 6ucb as the "Buckeye" or Allen's " Clip- 
per." The neighbors will be glad to hire it. Don't 
lend such a tool, nor let it without your own man 
to go with it, cveu if you are " your own man." 
•-■ — — «o»- — —~ 
Work in the Horticultural Departments. 
■ 
The willows and poplars have hung out their 
tassels — like banners of the advancing host, and 
admonish us, that these " notes" will reach the 
reader when he is surrounded by early flowers, 
and buds full of promise— hence they must be 
many, and each one brief, for in this working month 
one has little time to read long stories. 
Orchard ami Niirscrj'. 
The utility of hecling-in trees in a cool and shady 
place, will now be appreciated, as planting can be 
continued long after trees in the nursery havo 
started to grow. In many cases 
Trees from the nursery will arrive now, after a 
long detention on the way. When opened they 
tnay be shriveled and apparently worthless ; if pack- 
ed close and damp, their buds may have poshed out 
long, white shoots. If shriveled, bury for a week, 
root and branch. If growtli has taken place, cut 
back to a dormant bud ; don't be afraid to use the 
knife freely— you will be glad next autumn. 
Creating can still be. done, except with stone 
fruits, but when vegetation is active, use care. 
llootyrafts.—K not yet set out, should not be 
delayed. Put iu rows, 4 feet apart, and 12 inches in 
the row, pressing the soil firmly about them. 
Planting in Orchard. — Many ask about this. 
Cultivate for the orchard. If any crop will leave 
the land cleaner and richer than before, grow it. 
Eoot-crops are best. Never grow grain, and of all 
things, don't try so greedy a weed as tobacco. The 
same remark holds as to setting strawberries, and 
other small fruits, between the rows of young trees. 
It may be profitably done, if the trees are not robbed. 
Nursery Trees must be looked to If suckers or 
useless shoots are rubbed off, as soon as they push, 
much future cutting will be avoided. 
Mulching of young trees is to be done before dry 
weather comes on, straw, bog, ha}' salt, hay, etc., 
may be used. If no mulch is applied, keep the 
ground mellow by frequent stirring. 
Bisects. — " I shall move upon your works at once," 
should indicate the character of the warfare. When 
a "tent" is visible, however small the nest, be 
sure that caterpillars are there. Pull it down with 
the fiDgers, rub it off with a brush, swab it out 
with soft soap, — anything, but let it get large 
enough to do as a correspondent suggests — fire 
blank cartridges at it. The curculio begins its 
work as soon as plums and cherries arc large enough 
to sting. Jar the trees, catch the insect on a sheet, 
and burn or scald. 
Seedlings of all kinds of trees are to be kept 
weeded and thinned, whenever too crowded. Some 
of the hardiest forest trees, as oaks, need shading 
in their youth. This is especially true of young 
evergreens. A lattice of lath is best. 
Fruit Garden. 
Planting of all kinds may continue, provided the 
stock can be had in a sufficiently dormant condi- 
tion, with the precautions noticed under orchard. 
Grape Vines are frequently left down until danger 
of frost is over, and put up after the shoots have 
pushed. Great care in handling will be required. 
Vines trained on the arm system should have the 
arm bent in a curve to insure an equal starting of 
the buds. With newly planted Tines let only one 
cane grow the first year; select the strongest that 
start, and cut off the rest. Put down 
Layers of last year's wood. Leave the cane un- 
covered in the trench until the buds are well ad- 
vanced, and cover with soil as the growth proceeds. 
Cuttings of the grape, currant, and any others not 
yet planted, should be put in at once, and mulched 
with tan-bark or leaves. 
Currants. — If the sickly appearance of the plants 
6hows that the borer has entered them, cut away 
the affected part, if it takes the whole bush, and 
bum. Look out for the worm on the leaves ; if it 
appears, dust with the powder of white hellebore 
at once. Mulching is of great beuefit to this crop. 
Insects. — Besides those mentioned under orchard, 
the annoying Rose-bug will often prove very de- 
structive to the blossoms of the grape. This fellow 
seems to defy every application, and the only way 
is to shake him off early in the morning, and catch 
on a cloth or iu a pan of water. Burn or scald. 
Strawberries. —Plant, if not already done, even if 
it be late. Keep the beds clean. If they are 
mulched, pull up the weeds that force their way 
through. Put on a mulch before the fruit ripens, if 
not already done. Should there be a dry time, 
water, if practicable. Those who have facilities 
for irrigation should provide for this. 
Packages. — If fruit is to be marketed, havo bas- 
kets and crates ready and distinctly marked. There 
arc bo many kinds of baskets now in the market 
that one has a wide range in section. If in doubt 
which to buy, take the advice of your commission 
merchant, as local prejudice has much to do with 
the matter; a stylo of basket that is approved in 
one market may not take in another. 
Kitchen Garden. 
The first radishes, cress, or lettuce of one's own 
garden! No after crop ever seems so welcome 03 
these first fruits of our spring sowing. Those who 
live in mild climates, or who use glass, may now 
enjoy these. The rest have to wait a little longer. 
Asparagus. — Cut -from established beds, taking 
care not to Injure the root, nor trample the beds. 
When marketed it is bunched in bundles 6 to 8 
inches in diameter, according to the season ; have 
the tops even; cut the buts even; tie closely with 
two bass strings, and keep moist to prevent wilting. 
If the beetle appears, or its blackish caterpillar, 
each less than one-half an inch long, cut or bum 
every shoot on which it is found, if it takes the 
whole. It is a serious trouble, and demands severe 
treatment, or the plantation is done for. 
Beans. — Plant when all danger of frost is over, in 
rows 2 feet apart. Early Valentine is the most 
popular early. Mohawk, China and others are 
good. Of pole beaus the Lima is most esteemed, 
and needs a warm soil. Plant 5 or 6 around the 
poles, which should be 4 feet apart, and C or S feet 
high. Press the beans into the soil with the eye 
down. The Cranberry, London Horticultural and 
White Runner are good sorts for snaps or to shell. 
The New Giant Wax Podded, for snaps only, is as 
near perfection as we expect to see in a bean. 
Beets. — The early sowings should be thinned to 
from 4 to 6 inches, according to the distance be- 
tween rows. Sow early sorts, if not already done. 
Cabbage aud its varieties, Broccoli, Brussels 
Sprouts, Cauliflower and Kohlrabi, all need nearly 
the same treatment when young. Sow in a well 
prepared seed-bed in rows 6 inches apart. As soon 
as up, dust with air-slacked lime, to keep off the 
fly ; thin if the plants become too much crowded. 
Keep those from cold-frames well hoed. The hoe- 
fork is excellent for this work. Kohlrabi is not so 
readily transplanted as the others, and it is better 
to sow the seed, when the crop is to stand, iu rows 
IS inches apart, and then thin to S or 10 inches. 
For early cabbages, Wakefield and Early York; 
medium, theWinningstadt, especially for poor soils; 
later, any of the Drumheads, aud for family use 
the Savoys, though small, the best of all cabbages. 
CarroU. — Treat the same as beets, but they need 
closer attention as to weeding, which should be 
done very early. Early Horn and Long Orange. 
Celery. — Sow as directed last month; loosen the 
soil between the rows as soon as up, and pull weeds 
as soon as they appear. The same treatment is 
followed with Celeriac, or Turnip-rooted Celery. 
Crass or Peppergrass. — Sow every 8 or 10 days. 
Corn. — The time to plant is governed by locality. 
Darling's Early is one of the earliest, but not so 
good as many others, of which each locality has its 
favorite sort. Ill gardens, rows 4 feet apart, or 
more, for the toll sorts, are better than hills. 
Cucumbers. — Plants started uuder glass may bo 
pnt out as soon as the weather is warm. Iu most 
localities, it is soon enough to start seeds on sods. 
Plant in manured hills when the soil is warm, and 
use plenty of seed. Leave the main crop for pickles 
until next month. Early Russian and Cluster, ear- 
liest. White Spine the best for family or market. 
Egg Plants.— Transplant when large enough to 
another hot-bed, or pot aud keep under glass. Do 
not put out of doors until settled warm weather, 
Serbs, sow. Sec article on page 1S2. 
Leeks. — Sow, if not done. Weed as soon as up. 
Lettuce. — The crop from wintered plants will now 
be ready for use or sale. Sow seeds for 6UCCess!on, 
Transplant when large enough 1 foot apart each way. 
Martynia. — Sow wheu the soil gets well warmed. 
Melons. — Treat in all respects like encumbers. 
Mustard. — Sow for salad or greens every 10 days. 
Nasturtium. — When the soil is warm sow, and pro- 
vide brush or other support forthem to climb upon. 
Okra. — Sow where it is to grow. Very tender, 
and is best left until June. Dwarf is best. 
Onions. — See last month. Loosen the soil be- 
tween the rows ; keep clear of weeds from the start. 
Parsley. — Sow In open ground. See last mouth. 
Peas.— Put brush to the tall sorts, before they fall 
over. Earth up in hoeing. Sow late sorts. 
Peppers orCapsicums in all respects like egg plants. 
Potatoes.— Hoc as soon as up. Finish planting. 
Itadishes.—A constant supply will require sow- 
