20-i 
AMERICAN AGRICULTURIST. 
[JuNfi, 
Celery. — Keep the seed beds well weeded and cut 
back the plants to make them grow stocky. For 
early celery,some plants may be set in well manured 
trenches, but in our warm climate there is but little 
satisfaction in raising early celery. 
Corn should be planted at intervals of about two 
weeks, and a succession of good sweet com maybe 
had until frost stops its growth. The variety 
called StowelPs Evergreen is the best for late. 
Capsicums. — This month is early enough to put 
out this tropical plant. Give it a warm exposure 
and rich feed, and it will reward you for the care 
in time with its pungent fruit. 
Cucumbers.— Set out plants started under glass. 
Sow for pickles in well prepared land about 4 feet 
apart, giving a shovelful of good manure to each 
hill. Put in plenty of seed to give the bugs a fair 
chance to leave some plants to grow. 
Egg Plants are dainty and uncertain. Sometimes 
a plant will give 6 or 8 fine fruit, and again it will 
be satisiied with yielding only one. Give them all 
the hoeing you can, all the liquid or other manure 
you can spare, let them have the warmest exposure, 
and then if they will, they will, and if they wont, 
they wont. We know of no more freaky plant. 
Endive may be sown for a late salad. When the 
plants are large enough to handle, put them out a 
foot apart each way. 
Lettuce in the warm months is apt to run to seed. 
The India is the best for summer sowing. 
Melons. — The directions as to encumbers apply to 
them. Earlier fruit may be had by thinning as 
soon as the crop has set. More fruit is usually 
set upon a vine than will ripen. 
Onions. — No crop needs more care in weeding 
and thinning than this. In marketing, it will pay 
to send very young onions for sal ;. For ripe bulbs, 
thin to 3 or 4 inches. Potato onions are ripe when 
the tops fall over. Several remedies have been 
suggested for the maggot. Hot water seems to be 
t?UMi}9 3 t generally juccessfulatiplication. 
Parsnips should be thinned and hoed as soon as 
they are large enough to handle. 
Peas.— Plant for late crops. Stick brush to those 
that need it. In field culture hoe earth up to the 
stems and let them run. 
Radishes may be sowed for succession wherever 
there is a vacant spot in light soil. 
Rhubarb. — Keep the flower stalks down and re- 
move all weeds from the beds. Now that fruit is 
in season, the plants may have a rest, and all the 
better if they have a good dressing of manure. If 
it is desirable to dry or bottle a supply for winter, 
now is the time to do it. 
Rata Bagas. — Sow the latter part of the month, 
and as soou as the plants show themselves, give 
them a dusting of lime or ashes, to keep off the fly. 
Salsify.— This is a most neglected vegetable, of 
culture as easy as that of carrots. It is capable of 
being cooked in several ways, and is liked by most 
people, and will afford an acceptable variety at the 
farmer's table. It may be sown now and treated 
like parsnips, and, as it is perfectly hardy, like 
that, may be left in the ground all winter. 
Spinach. — Sow for succession. See last month. 
Squashes. — Sow the running kinds, Marrow, 
Tokohoma, Turban, Hubbard, and others, in well 
manured soil. Let the runners take root. If a 
vine appears to wilt, look near the root for a borer, 
cut him out and cover the wounded part with soil. 
Sweet Potatoes.— Plant, if not already done, accord- 
ing to directions in April and May numbers, where 
the best methods of cultivation are given. 
Tomatoes.— It is not too late in most places at 
the North to put these out with expectations of 
a crop. A light warm soil is best. We have pub- 
lished most of the proposed methods of training, but 
our own experience, and that of others, has shown 
us that any elaborate system of training is only of 
use in gardens where space is valuable. For gen- 
eral ?rops, any arrangement of brush or rails, that 
will keep the fruit from the ground, is all the train- 
ing that will pay. Those who wish to have the 
plants look neatly, will use some kind of a trellis. 
Liquid manure is a grand thing judiciously ap- 
plied. An infusion of sheep or barn-yard manure, 
of the color of " boarding-house tea," which means 
nothing too strong, may be used with great advan- 
tage. In European gardens they have a systematic 
use of liquid manure, and there as well as in Japan 
— a country from which we have yet much to learn 
— much of their horticultural success depeuds upon 
the use of human faeces in a liquid form. Stimulants 
of this kind should not be applied in a dry time, 
unless a proportionate amount of watering, by ir- 
rigation or otherwise, be done. The plant cannot 
grow in a time of drouth, and manure at this time 
is only an injury. 
Last month's notes should be looked over. Sev- 
eral things mentioned there, and now seasonable, 
have been omitted here for want of room. 
Weeds. — We end these notes as we began, with 
the injunction to never let a weed get too large to 
be raked out. Don't raise any weed seed. 
Flower Garden and Lawn. 
Impatience is the great fault of all lovers of flow- 
ers ; from the boy or girl who plants seeds one day 
and digs them up the next, to the older one who 
has read all about gardening and has invested un- 
told sums in plants, all are impatient. Those who 
have, despite our frequent caution not to be in a 
hurry, put out their verbenas, heliotropes and the 
like, and have seen what work these cold May storms 
have made with them, will probably recollect that 
these plants are raised in a warm propagating 
house, and that the change is a little too severe. 
We do not advise, in the climate of New York, the 
putting out of any of these things before the 20th 
of May, and the first of June is full soon enough, 
as that time the soil gets warm, the cold nights are 
over, ,and the plants have only to go on and grow. 
If put out too early they get a chill, from which 
they are a long TfilSe in recovering. So 
Redding Plants may still be satisfactorily put out. 
Those of a low growing habit should be pegged 
down by some of the modes given on page 219. 
Qreen-housc Plants that have grown too large are 
often turned into the borders with advantage, and 
cuttings taken for a new stock for the green-house. 
Among the most desirable these are the 
Abutilons, which make admirable plants out of 
doors as well as in the house, and make good house 
plants in one year from cuttings. 
Fuchsias should also be more freely used in places 
where they will not be hurt by the sun. 
Oleanders, Oranges, and the like, do well when 
turned out into the borders, and the next winter 
seem to grow all the better for the root pruning 
they get when taken up in fall. We have not tried 
yet the hardiness of many of our green-house plants. 
There are, doubtless, many now considered tender 
that will prove hardy when put out. 
Bulbs should have all the time they require for 
leaf-growth, and not be lifted until the leaves show 
signs of decay. When taken up, let the butos dry 
off and the leaves thoroughly wither befoiT they 
are removed. Wrap the bulbs in paper, label, 
and store in a cool place, free from vermin. 
Annuals. — Those already up will need transplant- 
ing. It is not too late now to sow most kinds with 
the prospect of satisfactory flowers, though the 
plants may not perfect seed. Asters are now so 
numerous in varieties, and all so fine, that one can 
hardly go amiss, and nothing gives a finer show. 
Tagetes signatapumila. — Though as a general thing, 
we prefer a flower of some other color than yellow, 
is one of the finest of the later annuals. Its foliage 
is so delicately cut, and its habit is so compact, 
that we do not notice the very strongly marked 
"yaller" of the numerous blossoms. Of course 
every one will have Candytuft, Mignonette, double 
Zinnia, and the whole class of 
Everlasting Flowers, which not only give pleasure 
while they are growing, but are pleasing after they 
are plucked. Helichrysums, Aeroeliniums, Rho- 
danthes, and all the rest, are fine in the garden and 
the dried flowers are pleasing in the parlor in winter. 
Herbaceous Perennials are generally multiplied by 
division of the roots, but when one has command 
of a propagating house, he can multiply them by 
divisions of the stems before they flower. 
Tic up all plants that need support. Much of the 1 
neatness of a garden depends upon sticks and 
strings, and these should be used in a manner that 
will be effective and not obtrusive. 
Green and Hot-Houses. 
The plants will, of course, be taken out aecord* 
ing to their hardiness. The Old custom of clearing 
the houses is now giving way to proper shading 
and ventilating, and keeping many of the plants in- 
side, where they do better than if exposed to burn- 
ing suns, drenching rains and cold winds out of 
doors. It is of benefit to many of the 
Green-home Shrubs to turn them out altogether, 
as it gives them a new root growth, and they are 
finer plants when potted for the next winter. 
Plants in Pots should be placed on planks or a 
layer of coal ashes, so that worms may not enter 
the pots, and if the pots are plunged, some ashes 
should be placed at the bottom of the hole for the 
same purpose. Camellias and other plants, with 
evergreen leaves, should have the shade of an ever- 
green screen or be placed under a lattice. Do not 
neglect to give potted plants the necessary water. 
Souses may now be repaired, and the plants left 
in them made to make the best possible display. 
Do not neglect to provide means for 
Shading, which is necessary for even tropical 
plants. Whitewash upon the outside will usually 
last long enough, or musliu screens may be put on 
the inside. 
Potting Soil of the best kind is made by stacking 
up sods from a pasture and allowing them to rot. 
It is well to turn the heap over occasionally and 
pick out the worms and grubs. 
Cold Grapery. 
When the vines are in flower, watering must be 
discontinued, and sudden changes of temperature 
avoided. The temperature should he from 85 to 
90 at mid-day, and allowed to sink very gradually at 
night. Perfect fertilization is secured by giving 
the bunches a gentle flirt with the finger when they 
are in full flower. Leave only one bunch to a 
shoot, and stop the shoot at the third leaf beyond 
the bunch. Avoid over-cropping, especially on 
young vines. Thin the berries when they are as 
large as peas, removing one-half or more. As the 
bunches increase in weight, they will need to be 
supported by tying up to the vines. 
Apiary in June. — Prepared by _V. Quinby. 
Swarms maybe expected throughout this month. 
Any colony that was good early in the season, and 
has not increased enough to swarm by July, should 
be examined for the cause. If diseased, and bees 
enough are left, drive out into a clean hive, to be- 
gin anew. If queenless, or if the queen he barren, or 
a drone layer, give the stock a new queen, first re- 
moving the old one. In a good season the apiarian, 
if he understands his business, can control his bees, 
according as lie wants surplus honey, or increase of 
stocks. He should not expect an excess of both. 
When swarms are wanted, make them as directed 
last month. Any hive, containing clean combs, 
where bees have died last winter, may be used again 
for new swarms. Be careful to remove all clusters 
of dead bees, moldy or soiled combs, before the 
bees are introduced. If kept long in warm weather, 
worms will appear ; use a little smoke of brim- 
stone to destroy them, even if very small. Sul- 
phured hives may be used the next day, if needed, 
without harm to the bees. Light hives, set away 
partly full last fall, where they have frozen, will 
not need smoking — no worms hatch. If colonies 
are multiplied, and no box honey is made, it should 
