1867.] 
AMERICAN AGRICULTURIST. 
391 
Cows, however, need light, clean, stables, with 
good ventilation. Warmth is desirable also, as well 
as great quiet. Give them an hour or two in a 
sum:}- yard daily, if the weather be pleasant. 
Young Stock. — Keep in warm sheds or stables, 
with the range of yards exposed to the south and 
east. Feed, water, and salt, regularly. 
Sheep. — See "Walks and Talks" on sheep feeding. 
Keep in dry, roomy, sheds and yards; give plen- 
ty of litter, but accommodate them with some hard 
ground. Feed in racks and troughs protected by 
sheds. Increase the feed gradually. Oil-cake will 
probably be found as economical as any feed, more 
so than any other you can purchase. Sheep feeders 
are satisfied if they get the manure clear, the 6heep 
selling for their cost with the value of the feed added. 
Hogs may be pushed forward as rapidly as possi- 
ble, and marketed according to the feeder's best 
judgment. Prices often rule much higher early in 
the mouth than later, but the difference is ofteu 
made up by the increase-in the manure pile. The 
value of manure is in almost direct proportion to 
the quality of the food of animals. That of fatten- 
ing hogs is very rich. 
Poultry. — See article on page 403. Keep in warm, 
light, houses, and feed a little meat or scrapcake 
daily, and hens will soon begin to lay. 
Orelaard and Nursery. 
In a mild November, planting may advantageous- 
ly be done, but if the weather be very frosty, it is 
better to postpone it until spring. 
Seel-in trees received from the nursery after cold 
weather sets in, rather than attempt to plant 
tlu-m in half frozen ground. 
Fruit in barrels should be kept as cool as possible 
without freezing. Do not close up the cellar of 
the fruit room, except there is danger of frost. A 
detached cellar, or one under an out-building, is 
much preferable for the storage of fruits or vege- 
tables to that under the dwelling, as fruit, in ripen- 
ing, gives off a quantity of unwholesome gas. 
Cider should be made from good fruit only, as sug- 
gested last month. Where vinegar is the object, so 
much pauas need not be taken. See page 410. 
Labels will need looking to, and the defaced ones 
replaced. Go over the newly planted trees, and see 
that the nursery labels are not wired on so tightly 
as to injure the limb. Do not trust entirely to la- 
bels, but have a record of every orchard. 
Cions may be cut, labelled, and stored m saw- 
dust in the cellar. 
Stocks for root grafting are to be taken up, assort- 
ed, tied in bundles, or packed in boxes, and put 
away in the cellar. 
Nursery Roks should have the plow run between 
them. See that surface water will run off. 
Plowing, Draining, and other preparatory work, 
may be done as long as the ground is not frozen. 
Fruit Garden. 
Most of the general irections given under 
" Orchard," apply here. Much may be done to 
prepare for next spring's planting, and in many 
favorable localities plants may be put out now. 
Covering of tender raspberries with earth, mulch- 
ing of strawberries, and such work of protecting, is 
usually done too early, and the plants suffer from 
being smothered. It is better to defer the opera- 
tion until freezing weather. 
Fruit should be kept cool. Grapes, if kept at a 
low and even temperature, may be preserved for a 
long time in an eatable condition. 
Blackberries and Raspberries may be propagated 
from cuttings of the roots. These should be pre- 
pared before the ground freezes. Cut the roots in 
pieces two or three inches long, and place them in 
a box with alternate layers of soil. The box should 
have holes in the bottom to allow any superfluous 
moisture to pass off, and should be buried in a dry 
spot below the reach of frost. 
Grape Vines. — Prune when the leaves have fallen. 
Those who wish to propagate vines from cuttings 
should try the plan given on page 409. It is not 
practical to give directions for pruning in these 
brief notes. There are now many excellent treatises 
giving the philosophy and practice of grape culture. 
Currant Cuttings may be set, if the ground is not 
frozen; otherwise they may be tied in bundles, and 
treated as noted for grape cuttings, on page 409. 
Kitchen Garden. 
It will be necessary to hurry up all unfinished 
work, secure the crops that are still in the ground, 
and put everything in order for winter. 
Plowing and Spading can continue as long as the 
ground is open. Land upon which the sod was 
turned over early in the fall, may, if the sod has 
sufficiently decayed, be cross-plowed. 
Level inequalities as far as practicable, put down 
drains where needed, and get through with as much 
preparatory work as possible. 
Roots should be dug before frost has injured the 
tender ones, aud stored in pits, as noted last month, 
or, where the quantity is small, in the cellar. Do 
not cover the pits until there is danger of freezing. 
Horseradish, salsify, and parsnips, being perfectly 
hardy, may be left until the last. 
Manure will be needed in large quantities in 
spring, and the stock should be on the increase. 
Accumulate not only stable manure, but brewers' 
and sugar-house waste, muck, leaves, and every 
available fertilizer. See that sinks and privies are 
in condition to save all the soil. 
Cover asparagus and rhubarb beds with several 
inches of coarse manure or other litter; the crop 
next spring will be enough earlier and better to pay. 
Cold i<Vame.s,containing cabbage and lettuce plants, 
will need to be covered on cold nights, but the sashes 
must be removed in the day time, or the plants 
will start to grow, and become tender. They will 
endure a moderate freezing without harm. 
Soil for Sot-beds. — Get ready a supply for use in 
February, by mixing good loam with one third its 
bulk of well rotted manure. Place it near the place 
where the hot-beds are to be made, and cover with 
boards or sods, to keep it in good order. 
Celery. — Store in trenches a foot wide, and deep 
enough to contain the plants. Pack the plants in 
upright and close together without any soil between 
them. When hard frosts occur, put on a covering 
of leaves or straw. 
Cabbages. — Invert as directed last month, and 
cover with earth when freezing weather comes. 
Rhubarb.— As long as the ground is open, new 
plantations may be made ; cut the old roots with a 
sharp spade into as many pieces as there are eyes, 
and set three feet apart each way in rich soil. 
Spinach. — In exposed places, or where the climate 
is severe, it will be necessary to put on a covering 
of leaves or straw to protect it. 
FSower Garden and Lawn. 
It is one of the advantages of a light soil that 
work can be continued well towards winter. New 
walks and borders may be made, and if the weather 
continues suitable, deciduous trees and hardy 
shrubs may be set. The grounds should always 
present a neat appearance, and all decayed stems, 
useless stakes, and other rubbish, be removed. 
Bidbs.— Plant all the spring sorts that are still left 
out. Take up Tuberoses, Tigrklias, Gladioluses, and 
the like, before hard frosts. Japan Lilies are per- 
fectly hardy, and need not be lifted ; these and the 
other bulbs will bloom all the better if they have a 
covering of coarse manure by freezing time. 
Chrysanthemums. — See that they are not beaten 
down by heavy storms, and note, while in flower, 
those that it is desirable to propagate from next 
spring. Those that have been potted for house 
blooming, when past flowering, may be set in a 
cool, dry, cellar, or turned out into the grounds. 
Dahlias. — If the roots still remain in the ground, 
take up as directed last month. Label, and handle 
carefully, as the freshly dug roots are very brittle 
Frames and Pits. — Half hardy plants, placed in 
these, should at present only be covered at night. 
See that the drainage is good, and that the pits are 
mice-proof. Set poison if any get in. 
Lawns will be benefited by a top dressing of well 
rotted manure, to be applied as soon as convenient. 
Leaves. — Accumulate a good stock of these from 
lawn, roadsides, and the woods. 
Roses. —Lay dowu the half hardy varieties, and 
cover with sods placed grassy side upwards. 
Climbers, such as Roses, Wistarias, and others 
not remarkably hardy, should be taken down, and 
covered with earth. 
Perennials, even the hardy ones, will bloom all 
the finer next year, if a forkful of littery manure is 
put over them. Protect half hardy shrubs by lay- 
ing cedar or other evergreen boughs over them. 
Green and Slot-Houses. 
The temperature of the house will demand the 
attention of the gardener. The heat of the sun will 
for a good part of the month enable him to do with- 
out fire. Everything should be ready to start a fire 
in case of a cold night or a sudden change. The 
thermometer should be consulted. Plants merely 
stored in the green-house, may get as cool as 40% 
or even 35°, but if flowers are wanted, the tempera- 
ture should not be less than 60°. • Collections of 
tropical plants, of course, require more heat. 
Bulbs. — Continue to pot, and keep in a cool place 
until they have formed an abundance of roots. 
Camellias. — Syringe frequently, and look out for 
the first appearance of insects. Keep rather cool 
unless early flowers are wanted. 
Propagate stock for winter blooming, especially 
of climbers for decorating the house. Tropceolums, 
Lophospermums, Maurandias, etc., will grow quick- 
ly and their flowers soon make a fine display. 
Seeds. — Sow annuals for winter blooming, if not 
already done. Candytuft, Sweet Alyssnm, and 
Mignonette are always wanted for bouquets. Nem- 
ophilas, Lobelias, and other annuals, soon flower. 
Cold Grapery. 
If any fruit remain upon the vines, look to it, and 
remove any berries that show a tendency to decay. 
Keep the atmosphere of the house as dry as pos- 
sible, by closing entirely in damp weather. 
Apiary in ]Vov. — Prepared by M. Quinby. 
The cool weather of this month renders the bees 
more stupid than they usually are in much colder 
weather. Consequently, anything heretofore neg- 
lected, should now be attended to. All empty 
surplus boxes, or those containing so little honey 
as not be worth removing for the table, should be 
taken from the hive. Leave the combs whole, ex- 
cept the edges that are near the glass, if in glass 
boxes. These should be trimmed off, the glass 
scoured clean, replaced, and the boxes set away, 
holes down, making it impossible for the mice to 
enter. Hives standing out for the winter should he 
fully protected from mice by wire cloth, nailed on 
with small tacks, over all passages, leaving room for 
thebees or.ly. Ample ventilation must besecured. 
Holes equal to two or three square inches must be 
made— if possible, at the bottom. Mr. Coe says, 
'•it should be in the center of the bottom board." 
When covered with wire cloth, some device to pre- 
vent dead bees from falling on, and covering it, is 
needed. A box, two or three inches deep, of the 
same size as the bottom of the hive, put under il, 
is very good. The hole in one of its sides, covered 
with wire, will do. Let it be on the back side, or 
where the wind will not drive directly through. 
Hives may be painted now. with the bees inside; 
take a day cool enough to keep the bees at home. 
Use several colors for the hives, such as nearly 
white, light green, lead, yellow, etc., that each bee, 
another year, may know its own hive at a glance, 
and avoid mistakes by making visits out of place. 
