432 Moiiflilij Iliiriicu/titrul ladendnr. 
Hanlij Annnals. If tlie «eatlipr Ne very finr, rommenop sowini-' for the fieticral blow, at the 
eml of till' month ; but if tlie weather is cold or weU defer it until April. 
Tender Anntials. Coinnienre sowiiiu; in pots, and plui-e then in a frame on a sli;;ht hot-bed; or 
on the thies of the vinery, for Cockscombs and Balsams. — See pages fi9 and 7(». 
Forcing. Continue to take into the stove, Roses, (see page 245 to 25'3) I'iuks, Carnations, &e. 
for the final bloom, previous to the succession in the open air. 
VEGETABLE DEPARTMExNT. 
Pern, of all kiiid.s, may now he sown, at dilfereut times ; tliat ilit cioi)S may succeed each other ' 
(see Calendir for February) As soon as the last sowing' appears above ground, sovv asain- 
Those sown in boxes last month, should be planted out in the beginning of this, if the 
weather is favonrahle, in a warm situation, for a first crop. 
Beans. Plant full crops of Long-pods, Windsors, &c. twice dinini: the month; also, plant in 
a warm situation, those sown in boxes last month, for the first crop 
Carrots. Orange and Altringham Carrots, should now be sown for the main crop. They thrive 
best in a deep rich light earth j — the best way of sowing them, is in shallow drills about 
nine inches apart. 
Parsnips for the main crmi, should now be sown, (if not done last month) in the same way 
as recommended lor Carrots. , 
Spinach sown last month, will now begin to appear; as soon as this is observed, .sow another 
crop to succeed, and continue to sow about every fortni;;ht afterwards. 
Cabbc,gf,S;c. Plant out from the winter beds, all the stronsf Cabbage plants, to come into u.se 
in June; and sow seed of the Early York, and Van Ack, &c. to come in for autunu>. 
Red-Calihaye pUints should now be planted out, if not done before; and seed sown in 
the bej;inninfr of the month, fur autumn and Vi^inter use. .Sow a pretty u'ood supply of 
Brocoli, Savoy, Borecole, iitc. about the latter end of the month, for use in winter and 
sprins;. 
Caulijlower plants, wintered in frames, should be planted out on the quarters intended for 
them, at about the di.stance of two foot .six inches apart. Also, not later than the middle 
of the racmth, sow some seed for a crop to succeed those sown last mouth. 
Celery sown last month, if large enoug-h, |>rick out towards the end of this month on abed of 
rich soil, (see pag'es 28y to 21)1) or on a slight hot. bed; and sow more seed in a warm 
situation. 
Lettuce plants that have been sheltered in frames, sliould now he planted out about a foot apart, 
and seed of the ditl'irent kinds sown twice durin;; the inontli. 
Radishes. In the beginniii!^ of the month sow full crops of tlie Scarlet, Short Top, &c. and 
about the middle or latter end, a few White and (led Turnip ilalishes. 
Parsley. Sow about the end of the month, for the principal supply, chiefly in drills. 
Scorzonera. Halsafy. Sfc. Sow iu shallow drills about ten inches apart, towards the latter end 
of the month, for the main crop. 
Leeks. Sow a good crop in the beginning: of the month. 
Onions. Sow the main crop early in this month, if not done in the last. — For directions, see 
Calendar for February 
Potutops. Begin about the middle of the month to plant out the principal early crops. 
Sweet Bazil and Sweet Marjoram., should now be sown on a slight hot-bed, or on a bed of rich 
light earth, in a warm situation. 
Mustard and Cress. Continue to sow in boxes. Sic. as recommended last month, and towards 
the end sow in a warm situation out of donV-s. 
Jerusalem Arlichnlies. Make new |>!autalions of them In suitable situatinns.if not done before. 
Turnips. Sow a few Early Dutch, about the 2llth of tiie month, and a larger (piantity at the 
end, to succeed them. 
Beet. Sow the main crop, of the Red, for its roofs; and a small (juantity of Wliite and Green 
for the leaves. 
Kidney.heans Continue to sow fin' forcing, as recommended hist month. 
Artichokes. Give the proper spring-dressing towards the end of the month, and dig and level 
the ground between the plants. 
Asparagus, for forcing, continue to plant for the final crop, (see page 240) Ahaut the end of 
the month, fork and s,iring-dress the productive beds This too, is the best time for plant- 
ing new beds ; — select a piece of good mellow ground for the imrpose, dung it well, and 
trench it to the depth of eighteen inches or two feet ; tlien form beds of four feet and a half 
wide, and make in them four narrow trenches or drills, six inches dee, i, and lengthways 
of the hed, with a spade, which will leave one side of the trench or drill upright; ajaitist 
this upright side insert one-year-old plants, eight inches apart, and .so deep that the crown 
of the root will be about two inciies below the surface of the b d; cover in each drill cure- 
fully, and then rake the b d slightly over to level it. If a light crop of Onions were sown 
on the beds the first year, they would not injure the Asparagus plants. 
Cucumbers and Melons will now feqiiire considerable attention in giving air and water, and in 
earthing-up, as may he reqiiisile. 
Strawberry beds should now have their spring-dressing, and if now plantations are wanted, this 
is the best time to make them, — take oi^' the stroiu'est runners nearest tie jiarent, (see 
page 329) and plant them on the beds or borders prepared for the purpose, in rows about 
twelve inches apart, and six inches from plant to jdant in the rows, 
Mint. New beds may be planted by drawing up tl'.e young si)ring siioots for the^nirpose, and 
planting them in beds six inches apart. 
Garlic end Shalots should be planted in the beginning of the month, in drills six inches apart, 
and abo\it two inches deep. 
(i. Jfnitt, ri-intcr, DullitM. i;e.ir Dci'oy. 
