BUILDINGS FOR HORTICULTURAL PURPOSES. 
63 
place for those nut intended to grow for a 
while. Camellias do well in such pits, without 
any fire heat, and only require to be closed 
and covered during the hardest frosts. Several 
ranges of such pits adapted to the plants they 
are to hold, may be erected in an appropriate 
place in front of each other; as, however, some 
require only cucumbers, and cannot obtain 
stable dung, one of the pits should be heated 
upon the tank system, like that already pro- 
posed for heating the centre pit of a stove : 
the construction in this case must be the same, 
and it will be well to carry out the plan of 
the hollow or false bottom for the circula- 
tion of air, for that will always be found 
an acquisition where it can be done con- 
veniently. It is only necessary to obtain ad- 
ditional height for the room taken up by the 
depth of the tank ; many, however, prefer for 
pits, dung heat ; in this case, the wall of the 
pit must be perforated with holes, or rather 
must be built with holes, leading to a hollow 
chamber, over which the bed is formed, and 
outside the wall must be a second wall, and 
a trench between them {Fig. 12), or there 
are others who have archways leading to the 
chamber, and thrust the dung into it, raking 
it oat and putting a hot supply whenever the 
other gets too cold, so as to allow the heat of 
the bed to decline too much ; many, however, 
will do more with a common hot bed and 
garden frame, than others can do with all the 
expensive contrivances of modern buildings, 
and this may be called the most unpretending 
and useful of all garden constructions. We 
believe we have gone through all the abso- 
lutely necessary buildings for a garden, for 
one or other of these may be used for peach, 
cherry, or fig houses, forcing house, or by 
whatever other name they may be called. 
The stove is fit for a pinery. The same con- 
trivance in lower pits will do for succession 
plants. The form of the greenhouse, with ap- 
propriate means of heating, will do for grapes, 
and if we make any other particular altera- 
tion, it would be in favour of orchideous 
plants, but even here, we should deviate but 
little from the ordinary stove, except by mak- 
ing shelves and places whereon to hang the 
various contrivances to hold the plants, for 
when they are in flower, the conservatory 
should be their place, and when not in flower, 
there need be no great pains taken to render 
the house commodious for visitors, unless, 
indeed, there be what may be called a show 
orchideous house, in which case the paths may 
be wider, and an open tank of water, not to 
be heated, except by the natural warmth of 
the place. This house, however, might be 
made a sort of stove conservatory, and if so, 
there may be any fanciful flower adopted that 
may suit the taste of the owner. We, however, 
do not profess to find a hundred plans for 
structures, on which no two persons' tastes 
would be indulged alike, and therefore leave 
this part of the subject for others, for each 
one will give a different opinion, and furnish 
a different design. 
As a protection for plants on walls, without 
heat, one of the most simple plans is to use 
Fig. 12. 
Fig. 13. 
the lights of a common pit placed in a sloping 
position {Fig. 13), and for a great preser- 
vation against the falling frosts, a coping 
should be always built on the wall. The 
lights may be placed close together, side by 
side, to extend the range as far as may be 
desirable, and the ends may be closed with 
mats. As a protection for climbing plants 
that are a little tender, it is very efficacious, 
for the coping prevents the heavy rains from 
trickling down the wall ; and there is nothing 
more fatal to half-hardy plants that are nailed 
against a wall, than wet in winter. The 
upper portion of the glass rests under the 
coping, so that no wet can get behind it. We 
have seen it recommended to place the entire 
frame against the wall, and the lights put on 
the frames. Of course, in such case, the 
small front of the frame is placed upwards. 
This is purely theoretical, no man could re- 
duce it to practice without finding out that 
the wood work could not be put close to the 
wall, unless all the stems of the trees or plants 
are nobbed into the wood-work, nor would 
the wood-work of the back, which is to be next 
the ground, lay even unless the border were 
