72 
GARDENING CALENDAR FOR FEBRUARY. 
gated from as much as to secure a sufficient 
stock, putting them in silver sand, and giving 
them a little bottom lieat. 
Violets in frames, must have plenty of air 
and light, and moderate supplies of water. 
Hardy Perennials, as pentstemons, campa- 
nulas, &c, kept in frames, should be planted 
out near the end of the month ; cuttings of all 
these may be put in now, and will produce 
plants to flower in autumn. 
Forcing Pit. — Continue to keep this filled 
up, as the plants are successionally taken away 
for the show-house. The various bulbs, as 
ainaryllids, hyacinths, narcissus, iris, oxalis, 
sparaxis, anemones, gladiolus, &c, may all be 
made serviceable now : it is an advantage to 
have the pots well filled with roots previous 
to their being put in the heat. Protect the 
bulbs plunged out of doors from the rains and 
frost, and let them be excited gradually when 
wanted. The other forcing plants will chiefly 
consist of lilacs, deutzias, azaleas, rhododen- 
drons, kalmias, &c. ; also, lily of the valley, 
geraniums, pinks, carnations, roses, &c. &c, 
most of which would be all the better for 
slight bottom heat. Keep a moist atmo- 
sphere ; syringe with tobacco water, or fumi- 
gate at the first sight of aphis or green fly. 
The heat of the house or pit may range from 
50 to 60 degrees at night, and from 60 to 75 
by day, closing up early with sun heat. The 
whole of* the plants will be bettered by apply- 
ing weak liquid manure when growing. 
THE GREENHOUSE. 
Temperature. — From 40 to 50 degrees by 
day, and 35 to 40 degrees by night. 
Ventilation. — In mild weather give air 
plentifully ; no artificial heat will be required 
to dry up damp, unless it be very dull wea- 
ther ; continue to use artificial coverings at 
night in cold weather, and only when very 
severe apply fire heat. 
Watering. — A little more moisture will now 
be requisite : look over the individual plants 
every day ; and in watering give as much as 
will go to the bottom of the pot, otherwise the 
plants will be liable to suffer when not 
expected. The water must be of the same 
temperature as the house. 
Potting. — If any of the pots have before 
been in use, have them all washed and tho- 
roughly dried. Begin to shift those plants 
which are vigorous growers, and in the most 
forward state : drain well, and cover the 
drainage by a little moss or turf to prevent 
the soil mixing with the crocks : when the 
roots are matted, they must be carefully 
loosened, and the ball of earth pierced to 
admit water. The utmost care is requisite to 
have the soil filled into every crevice around 
the ball, which should be set so deep in the 
pot as will admit of being just covered in 
shifting. 
Soils. — If possible have all the different 
kinds protected from the rains. Turn com- 
posts in frosty weather : that most generally 
useful is a mixture of turfy loam, leaf mould, 
and peat earth in equal parts, with a little 
decomposed cow-dung and silver sand added ; 
this will suit all soft-wooded plants, as pe- 
largoniums, fuchsias, salvias, &c. Epacris, 
heaths, and the hard -wooded things generally 
require a soil composed chiefly of sandy peat 
in a turfy state, adding in the case of aza- 
leas, and such plants, a little leaf mould. 
Top dressing. — Those plants which from 
want of accommodation and other causes may 
not be shifted, must have all the old soil taken 
away as far as the roots will allow, and re- 
placed by fresh soil of a somewhat richer 
nature than the plant usually requires when 
shifted, but of the same character. 
Insects. — Fumigate, or syringe with tobacco 
water, at the first appearance of green fly. 
To prevent spotting or dirtying the plants 
with the tobacco liquid, syringe them first with 
clean water. 
Aloes, and succulents generally, will require 
but little water ; on the appearance of growth 
give rather more. 
Agaves, and large succulents, may be shifted 
at the end of the month, and excited into 
growth ; they require a rich soil and a perfect 
drainage. Sponge over the leaves, which are 
apt to get dusty : give them plenty of air. 
Ahtromerias. — Give these a little tepid 
water as they advance, and when mild admit 
plenty of air to them, but avoid currents. 
Amaryllis. — Pot a few more for succes- 
sion : many of them require stove treatment, 
and all are the better for a little warmth : 
those potted early must have additional 
water ; and those in flower should be kept 
cooler. 
Annuals. — Sow a few in pots such as schi- 
zanthus, viscaria, phlox, lobelia, and other 
showy kinds, giving them a slight bottom 
heat : transplant them into small pots as soon 
as they are fairly grown ; keep them near the 
glass, where they may get plenty of air in 
mild weather. 
Azaleas. — Take a few more into heat for 
succession, and keep the remainder as back- 
ward as possible, by placing them in a cold 
shady situation. Those past bloom should be 
shifted and taken into the stove or vinery, 
where they will be excited into growth, and 
matured for early forcing : they should have 
peat soil, with a little leaf mould when shifted. 
Calceolarias. — If large specimens are 
wanted, give them a shift as often as the roots 
touch the sides of the pots : prevent damage 
from slugs and green fly, from both of which 
