350 
GARDENING CALENDAR FOR AUGUST. 
Kidney Beans must be hoed amongst, and 
the tall sorts staked : the dwarf sorts will be 
better for being earthed up. Those which 
are ready for gathering should be taken off, 
whether required for use or not, as the 
strength of the plant goes to mature them, if 
they are left on : it is well to leave a few 
by and by for seeds. 
Leehs. — Hoe amongst these, and draw a 
little earth about their stems ; do not follow 
the common practice of cutting the leaves. 
Lettuce. — Sow about the middle of the 
month to stand the winter : the Hammersmith, 
brown Dutch, and brown cos, also the green 
cos and imperial cabbage, are the best hardy 
sorts. Plant, or thin out from the late sowings 
for autumn use. 
Lettuce (Lamb's) or corn salad. — Sow this 
month in very common soil, and rather a 
shady situation; it will be found useful in 
winter. 
Onions. — Sow the first week for a full 
winter crop ; they must have a rich, deep, and 
fresh soil, and a good place, and should be 
sown in drills a foot apart. Watch the pro- 
gress of the spring crops, and gather and lay 
them in a dry place (before storing) as they 
ripen. 
Parsley. — A large sowing should be made 
as early as possible. Thin out the sowings 
made in June, leaving the most curled plants. 
Parsnip. — It will be beneficial to go over 
them anew, and see that they are not left 
too thick ; suffer no weeds to grow. 
Peas. — Discontinue sowing unless it be 
upon a very warm spot. Stake the advancing 
crops in time, and top them when about three 
feet in height : give them thorough waterings 
as recommended if the weather is dry ; also 
soak the seed in water, before sowing. 
Radish. — Sowings for winter or late in 
autumn should be made about the middle of 
the month ; either the black Spanish or the 
queen radish are suitable : sow early for 
succession, and the quicker they grow the 
more crisp and better they will be. 
Rape. — Sow; transplant, if sown last month, 
about two feet apart ; it is very hardy, and 
forms a substitute for mustard. 
Red Cabbage. — Sow beside the others ; they 
need not be transplanted until the spring, as it 
is not used until the head is large and firm. 
Salading, as mustard, &c. must still be 
sown every fortnight or so; it will keep in 
use longer if grown in a shady place. 
Scarlet Runners. — Allow none of the old 
pods to remain unless wanted for seed, as they 
do not then bear half so many fit for using. 
Savoy. — It is almost too late to plant out, 
except in good situations ; if done, do it early. 
Spinach. — Sow early in rows a foot apart, 
for a main winter crop; the prickly is best. 
Turnip. — Another sowing can still be made; 
the white stone or a superior early sort is to 
be preferred : thin out, and hoe, the earlier 
sowings. 
THE FRUIT GARDEN. 
General Directions. — Be indefatigable in 
preserving the ripe and ripening fruit from 
the attacks of vermin ; the net, the bottles, 
the mats, &c, the watchful eye and ready 
hand, must all be in active operation, even to 
the removing of the causes, of which perhaps 
the early and extensive destroying of wasps, 
nests is not the least effective : dare we say 
kill the birds also ? The training and thin- 
ning both of wood and fruit may still be neces- 
sary and beneficial. Examine newly budded 
trees, and perfect the ties when required : also 
take away all suckers and superfluous shoots 
that would draw nourishment from the bud. 
Apricots. — A few may ripen at the end of 
the month, and only those must be gathered ; 
avoid touching those which are not ready. 
Slugs are sometimes troublesome, and must be 
destroyed at night. 
Cherries. — See that the nets used for pro- 
tecting the fruit from birds are whole : it 
i3 not well to gather all at once, but go regu- 
larly over, taking only those ripe : when the 
crop is cleared well wash the trees. 
Currants. — About the end of the month, 
it may be necessary to mat up a i'aw of the 
best bushes, both for kitchen and dessert use : 
choose a perfectly dry day, and make the mats 
quite close ; standards, espaliers, or wall- 
trained trees, are most readily preserved in 
this way. 
Figs. — Remove any crude shoots that may 
now appear, and use every proper means of 
ripening the fruit quickly ; do not take off 
many of the leaves, but the wood may be much 
thinned. 
Gooseberries. — Mat up the good keeping 
sorts, such as the "Warrington and Iron- 
monger ; the bushes must be quite dry. 
It may be necessary to net over the whole, 
where birds are plentiful. 
Nectarines. — Finally thin and nail in the 
shoots, removing all late growths, and it may 
be, a few over-strong shoots where too much 
crowded ; this will assist the ripening of the 
fruit, and what is not less important, the 
ripening of the wood. 
Peaches. — Treat the same as nectarines. 
Expose the fruit to the sun ; but whilst no 
leaves must be removed where they will not 
easily shed, the half of the leaf may be cut 
away. 
Pears. — Again remove the breast-wood 
and any after-growths or blossoms, so as to 
conduct all the strength to the fruit and next 
year's wood. Let none of the leading shoots, 
