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KITCHEN GARDEN. 
nor-nolsF, oit WARM PITS FOB FORCING FLOWERS. 
l'i. \nts and flowers which have been forced 
Borne time, arc coming into flower, and must 
be well watered: o further supply, to succeed 
them, should be put into the coolest part. 
Rhododendrons, Azalias, Roses, Rhodoras, 
Daphnes, Persian and Siberian Lilacs, Gilder 
Roses, bulbs of all sorts, should be kept in 
frames some time before being placed in the 
hot-house or warm pit at all. Plenty of air 
should be admitted, especially in line weather. 
l'i wis iii general must be kept clean, and 
ha\ c plenty of water while growing. Stop the 
(mis of all random shoots, to keep them short 
and bushy. Train up climbers as they grow, 
ami not let them hang about; for the leaves will 
be found twisted in all directions but the right. 
Give new pots, rather larger, to all plants that 
have filled their own with roots. Water 
should be kept in the house for the purpose 
of supplying plants, which would be damaged 
by any colder than the atmosphere of the 
house. Any plants that are foul with in- 
sects should be washed with soap and warm 
water, or with warm tobacco water, and well 
syringed with warm water afterwards. 
GREEN-HOUSE. 
Here there cannot be too much air in dry 
weather if there be no frost, and it is better 
to avoid putting fires if it can be possibly done 
without. Very little water should be given to 
any of the plants; but care must be taken that 
the hard- wooded plants do not get dry, for it 
would be fatal. Keep everything dry and 
clean. In very damp weather a good fire 
should be made, and the house opened a little 
at top, to dry it. This, however, must be done 
in the middle of the day. 
KITCHEN GARDEN. 
Hot-Beds. — To make a hot-bed with stable 
dung, it is necessaiy to prepare it by laying 
it in a heap to heat, and in a few days to 
fork the whole of it over, shaking it out well 
into another heap; and if there is any indica- 
tion of dryness, to water it two or three times 
during the operation: in a fortnight or three 
weeks it will be ready. Then lay your frame 
on the ground, to mark out the space you re- 
quire, and drive in four stakes at the corners, 
so as to allow a foot width of dung all round 
the frame; remove the frame now until the 
dung-bed is formed. The dung must be laid 
evenly over the ground, within the stakes, 
and piled up in a square or oblong square, level 
at the top, the dung being well shaken out, 
and patted down with the fork as you go on, 
that it may lie light, but equally pressed all 
over; three feet, or three feet six inches high, 
will be suflicient. When it is completed, and 
neatly squared on the sides, and levelled on 
the top, place the frame on it, and the glass on 
the frame. Thrust a long stick into the side, 
to reach the middle of the dung, for the pur- 
pose of pulling out occasionally, and feeling 
it to try the heat. In a day or two, add about 
three inches of good loam, oi", in the absence 
of fresh loam, the best garden mould, taken 
from where vegetables grow well. But no 
earth can be made up so good as turf, cut four 
inches thick, and placed in a heap one year to 
rot. This is, without exception, the best soil 
for anything. If it is too stiff, which is rarely 
indeed the case, road sand is the best thing 
to lighten it with; and it should be only given 
in sufficient quantity to let water pass freely 
through the soil. By tilting up the glass a 
little, and letting the rank steam off, the bed 
will be fit for the reception of plants. Seeds 
of all descriptions may be sown in pots, and 
placed in the frame. If it be for the growth 
of cucumbers, place a heap, or cone, of simi- 
lar soil to that which covers the dung — say 
as much as a stable-pail would hold, under 
each light. This is formed into a hollow in 
the middle, and a sort of circular heap round 
it ; into this basin the cucumber plants are 
turned out of their pots with the balls of earth 
whole. 
Lining Hot-Beds. — The way to line a bed 
is to fork away the dung from the front, and 
fairly undermine the bed, drawing out the 
dung, and then place hot dung in the hollow 
thus made, pressing it down and in, and heap- 
ing it up level with the other part, and a foot 
wide at top. In a few days, serve the back 
of the bed in the same way, and when the heat 
declines a little, the two sides, or ends, may be 
heated by the same means, and when the heat 
declines again, repeat the same process. 
Asparagus Beds, which are made up for 
the winter, require but little notice; but the 
forcing of this beautiful vegetable is so sim- 
ple, that those who like it should never be 
without a supply. Three - year - old roots 
should be preserved; or, if you have old beds 
to break up, select the strongest roots from 
them. These are to be laid as close as they 
can well be placed on the loam of the hot-bed, 
made as directed, and covered up with three 
inches of good loam above the crowns. The 
bed is to be covered with the glass, and air 
given to let off the steam and excess of heat. 
Some persons who are fond of a long length of 
white uneatable stuff and a nob of eatable 
vegetable, will, in three weeks' time, put three 
inches more earth ; but we prefer cutting not 
more than an inch of white, and three or four 
inches of eatable asparagus, and therefore 
put no more earth, but allow them to grow 
three or four inches out of the ground, cutting 
them before the buds begin to open ; but this 
will not do for market, because people expect 
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