22 
TRANSPLANTING. 
for the offsets; plant them six inehes apart in 
rows across the bed, and a loot from row to 
row, keeping the sorts well separated, and 
labels attached, that they may he known before 
they bloom, as well as in bloom. The third 
year these offsets may be taken up; the majority 
of them will have become blooming roots; these 
will soon throw more offsets, which must be 
served in the same way, while the blooming 
roots may be planted where they are to remain 
awhile. 
The Orange Lily, and such as have the 
small scaly bulbs on the axils of the leaves, 
should have them gathered before they fall, 
and when they leave their places easily ; these 
may be planted in drills across a similar bed 
to that we have described, covered not more 
than an inch; they should be almost three 
inches apart; the rows should be a foot apart, 
that they may be the easier kept free from 
weeds : here they must be watered if the 
weather be dry. They will soon be up, and 
as the growth will be tender at first, it will be 
as well to cover them with a little litter as they 
approach the winter: nothing more is required 
but to keep the bed clean. In the spring they 
will begin to grow again, and in hot weather 
may require a little water, but nothing further 
is required till the decline of the leaf ; they 
will then be large enough to remove into 
another bed, six inches apart in the row, and 
Fig. 5. 
a foot between the rows: here they may remain 
until they bloom. 
In raising the different varieties of Lily 
from seed, you must provide shallow boxes 
filled with compost recommended for beds, 
only that it must be sifted through a coarse 
sieve to take away any large stones. As soon 
as the seed is ripe in October, they must be 
sown in these boxes thinly and evenly, and 
some earth sifted over them to cover them a 
quarter of an inch. The object of sowing them 
in boxes is to be able to move them about. 
At first they must have only the morning sun. 
In November the boxes must be removed to 
a situation where they will have all the sun, 
and be screened from the north and east wind; 
here they may be till April, when they must 
be removed into the first situation again, and 
the plants will be above ground. If, however, 
you have the convenience of a garden frame, 
Fig. 6. 
it is better to place the boxes or pans in it at 
once, because in a frame they can be shaded 
or thrown open to the sun without any re- 
moval at all. In the following August or 
September, when the leaf has died down, they 
may be planted out in such beds as we have 
described before, in the same way as the bulbs 
from the axils of leaves, covering them with 
peas haulm or litter till the spring, when it 
may be cleared off, and the plants will be up. 
All through the cultivation, weeds must be 
drawn out, and the plants kept perfectly clear. 
In two seasons from planting out, they must 
be taken up and planted in a fresh bed six 
inches apart in the rows, and a foot from row 
to row. The only way to preserve the roots 
while out of ground is in sand, but where 
there is no necessity to keep them out, they 
are far better planted directly. 
TRANSPLANTING. 
The whole art of transplanting consists in 
the removal of plants from one place to 
another; and unless this be done without any 
material damage to the roots, the plant must 
suffer in health, and sometimes die altogether. 
Generally speaking, there is no difficulty in 
removing plants when young, and if they were 
removed every season they would hardly be 
the worse for it ; when, however, we attempt 
to remove trees, plants, or shrubs, that have 
been many years undisturbed, the greatest 
care must be used to prevent injury from the 
loss of fibres, which, with all our attention, 
will be broken, and the plant must suffer in 
proportion to the damage done to the root. 
