THE FRUIT GARDEN AND ORCHARD. 
53 
into the green-house, or into a common hot-bed 
to force. In green-houses they should occupy 
high shelves ; in hot-houses they should be 
near the front glass. In all cases of forcing, 
the house, or pit, or frame, should be cooler 
in the night than by the day, though it is too 
often a common error to light fires in the 
evening and raise the temperature when it is 
dark and not desirable for things to grow. In 
houses adapted for the forcing of anything, 
the fire should be taken care of all day, and 
allowed to go down a little at night. 
Mushroom beds require to be kept warm 
and not too dry ; if they are in the open air, 
and the covering is wet, let the wet be changed 
for dry straw. If you have not made your 
mushroom beds, nor made any provision for 
them, make the best use of the time now left, 
and attend to the directions given last month. 
Turnips. — If the weather be favourable, 
sow a few early Dutch, or some of the new 
ones, said to beat them; a few sown at the 
end of the month may come in well. 
Carrots. — A few, sown at a favourable 
period, will be found very useful, if they hit, 
and if not, the object of the seed is trifling. 
Onions. — The same may be said of this 
useful vegetable. Sow a few twice this month, 
if the weather allow of it; just a few in drills, 
to draw young for salading. 
Leeks, Beet, and Parsnips. — A little of 
each may be sown often with great advantage. 
Beans. — Get in a row or two of Marshall's 
early prolific, or some other of the present fa- 
vourites. The Windsor or other large kinds 
will do, but beans have greatly improved, and 
the best take no more room than the common. 
The end of this month, or the beginning of 
next, is the season for the main crop; but the 
consumption is never very great in private 
families where there is a good garden esta- 
blishment and better things. 
Horse Radish. — If you made no provision 
in autumn for this useful root, form a proper 
bed, provide yourself with some good rotten 
dung, trench your ground eighteen inches 
deep, throw into the bottom of the trench a 
little of the rotten dung, and some of the soil, 
to occupy about three inches of the eighteen. 
Then cut up waste roots of the horse-radish 
into pieces an inch long, and lay a row at the 
bottom, about six or eight inches apart, along 
the trench; then begin your next trench, and 
throw in the soil, well bruised and broken, to 
prevent any lumps spoiling the growth of the 
sticks; and when the new trench is made, the 
old one will have been filled up, so that you 
may put In the dung and a little mould again. 
Place a second row of horse-radish pieces on 
it, and form a third trench by throwing the 
stuff you take out into the second trench. The 
third being dug as deep as the others, and the 
second filled up by the process of digging it, 
you proceed to dung and plant the pieces 
as before, and so continue till the bed is 
completed, when you finish the last empty 
trench by filling it up with the stuff you took 
out of the first. This bed will grow into vary 
excellent stuff, the sticks will come up .straight, 
and grow handsome in two seasons. Next sea- 
son you should do one to come in when the 
other is off, and so a succession should be 
kept up; and when used the bed should be 
trenched and cleared of it as completely as 
you would clear a bed of potatoes. Autumn 
is, however, decidedly the best time for form- 
ing these beds, though they will do now, if 
they do not come up quite so strong. 
Herbs. — Sow all that are raised from seed, 
especially sow Parsley in any spare places 
you have, for it is a most useful and orna- 
mental herb. It is a good plan to sow a 
whole quarter in drills, that you may after- 
wards draw out any that may appear secondary 
in quality ; the most curled leaf being the 
most esteemed. There is a kind of Parsley 
cultivated for the root, but except where the 
flavour is required very strong, it is not used. 
Cucumber Beds. — Line them where the heat 
is declining. Give air, and regulate the shoots 
to cover the space without crowding or cross- 
ing one another. If any of the branches are 
not indicating fruit, pinch them back to two 
or three eyes, that they may produce lateral 
branches more prolific; stop the ends of the 
principal shoots where they have grown a fair 
length; give air by tilting the glass behind, 
and supply water occasionally; pluck off any 
discoloured leaf, and where the leaves are too 
thick, and cover one another, remove the worst. 
Dig up any quarters that may be done with, 
that is, that the crops are off. If cabbage stumps 
occupy a lai'ge portion, which is often the 
case, and are used for sprouts, it is not well 
to destroy them, but they can be removed and 
planted in close rows in some place of less 
consequence, and where they will not occupy 
a tenth part of the room; they will produce 
the sprouts just as well. The space they 
occupied can therefore be dug or trenched, as 
the case may be, being first dressed with 
dung, or leaves, or decaying vegetables, or 
whatever else is intended for a dressing. The 
surface may be left in ridges or rough dug, 
that the frost, if there should be any, may 
improve it. The clearing of paths, trimming 
of hedges, the clearing away of spent crops, 
wheeling dung or dressing into vacant spaces, 
where it is intended to be used, are all mere 
routine business, which speaks for itself. 
THE FRUIT GARDEN AND ORCHARD. 
Strawberry Beds may be made, if they 
have not been made at the proper time. 
