130 
THE CULTURE OF THE NEAPOLITAN VIOLET. 
consider the best method of propagation. It 
will be found highly advantageous to every one 
interested in Floriculture, young gardeners 
especially, to acquire a thorough knowledge 
of physiology, the natural structural organiza- 
tion of every species of plants ; for although 
we can and are able materially to assist nature, 
yet nature herself, if duly watched and studied, 
will afford us some important and invaluable 
lessons. In propagating the Neapolitan Violet, 
I will presume the. cultivator has in his pos- 
session some established plants. These, at the 
end of March or beginning of April, should 
have a small portion of light loamy (rather 
sandy) soil sifted over them, to give the shoots 
or runners an opportunity of forming and emit- 
ting roots, which they will readily accomplish; 
if thought necessary, a little more of the same 
mould may be sifted over them the second 
time, it being advisable not to cover the crown 
of the plants too much in the first place, but 
to add more if required. As they advance in 
growth, if the weather should prove dry, a 
little water will be indispensably necessary, 
as it will greatly accelerate the growth and 
formation of roots ; but at this season it must 
be somewhat sparingly applied, it being better 
to keep them rather too dry than too moist. 
In about a month or six weeks, the runners 
will have formed themselves into plants, which 
may then be disunited from their parent plant, 
and planted out on a bed previously prepared 
for them, formed of the following compost 
(i. e. if the soil be not naturally good and 
suitable) : maiden turfy loam, from a common 
or old pasture, well decomposed ; half of well 
pulverized rich yellow loam, one-third of 
thoroughly decayed rotten manure from an 
old hot-bed, and a third of leaf mould. Many 
mix their compost some time previous, being 
used so as to become well incorporated ; but 
my practice is, to have my soils, &c, well de- 
composed by exposing it to all weathers, and 
mix at the time of using. I believe the old 
practice is more generally repudiated in the 
present day. The compost being well mixed 
and prepared, beds should be formed in an 
open situation, if possible, under a wall of 
north aspect, shaded by no trees, or anything 
that would cause the plants to grow weakly, 
(the great object is to obtain strong and stocky 
plants) ; the beds may be raised from six to 
eight inches above the surface of the subsoil 
(if I may so term it), thus, in some measure, 
depending on the nature of the subsoil or 
treating ; if it is dry and sandy, it must not 
be raised much above the surface ; if vice 
versa, it should be elevated by all means ; the 
beds being ready for the reception of the 
plants, they should be pricked out, from eight 
to ten inches apart; give them plenty of room, 
taking care to keep the roots as entire as pos- 
sible. When the planting is completed, a 
liberal quantity of water may be administered 
by a fine-rose watering pot, and shaded for a 
few days from intense sun, until they become 
established a little. Attention must be paid 
to the watering in very dry weather ; also to 
shading, when the sun is excessively power- 
ful, at the meridian of the day, throughout the 
summer; the more they can, without injury, 
be exposed, the better plants they will be 
likely to make. During their growth in this 
situation they should be looked over, and any 
straggling shoot that might be made, pinched 
off; also thin and regulate, should there be an 
over-abundant number ; they will require no 
other care, farther than to stir the surface, 
keeping it clear of weeds, &c, until the latter 
end of August or beginning of September, at 
which time they must be finally moved to 
their winter quarters for the production of 
their lovely flowers, fulfilling the design of a 
good and gracious Creator. It is the practice 
of a vast number to make choice of an old 
melon or cucumber bed, to grow them on 
finally, but, for my own part, I prefer making 
a bed for the express purpose ; I make choice 
of old linings, and should that material not be 
sufficiently dry, I spread it, exposing it to the 
full action of the sun until it is rendered per- 
fectly dry, fit for use ; I then mark out the 
size of the frame, and build the bed about two 
feet and a half in height, beating it firm, as 
the process goes on ; when within a foot or so 
of its desired elevation, I lay, on an even sur- 
face, drain earthenware pipes, from four to 
six inches in diameter, the number required 
to be used depending on the size of the bed, 
to conduct the heat from the linings into 
the interior, so that the temperature through- 
out the bed may be equally the same; although 
I prefer the above pipes, wood of the same 
size may be used, and drawn out before the 
application of the lining; or holes may be 
perforated at the option of the cultivator; pro- 
bably he might meet with as good success by 
adopting the latter as the former. Having 
thus prepared the bed, place on the frame 
(which should be rather deep than otherwise), 
add from two to three inches of rough turfy 
loam, then near about the same of ground 
bones and charcoal, mixed well together ; this 
stratum will afford a good efficient drainage, 
which is very essential to their welfare under 
artificial cultivation, as they are very impa- 
tient of local moisture to excess, being indi- 
genous to dry banks, where it is soon carried 
off by evaporation, &c. Having proceeded 
thus far, the same compost may be used as 
recommended for them after they were taken 
from the old plants, with the addition of a 
small portion of peat and very coarse sand, 
well mixed with the forementioned compost ; 
