242 
FLOWER GARDEN. 
of the Pinks half way up, is to prevent the 
petals while swelling from splitting them; for 
if the pod be split down to the sub-calyx, as 
it is called, the flower is disqualified, which 
would throw out a whole stand or collection, 
at any respectable exhibition. Towards the 
end of the month the side shoots may be 
pulled off to do for cuttings, or pipings, as they 
are called. The lower portion of leaves 
should be stripped off to make room, as it 
were, for putting them into the ground; but 
it has been the custom for years to shorten all 
the other leaves, a custom better honoured in 
the breach. These cuttings should be put out 
in a shady border, with a hand-glass over them, 
well watered, and they will themselves strike; 
but some who do these in large numbers, 
prefer making up a slight hot- bed, with three 
inches of loam on it, and striking them there. 
It is considered that they root quicker if shaded, 
the bottom heat being of some assistance : it is, 
however, unnecessary. They must be freely 
watered ; and if not in the shade, they must be 
artificially shaded. Some mix up loam and 
dung almost as thin as mud : at least, they so 
completely soak it, that the pipings, as they 
are called, can be stuck in without any help but 
the thumb and finger, as fast as possible, and 
the soft stuff closes about them of itself; the 
hand-glass also sinks into it, forming a com- 
plete air-tight covering, which we have known 
frequently to remain till the whole had struck, 
water having been lavishly bestowed all round 
outside of the glass, and scarcely a single 
piping has missed rooting and growing. 
Auriculas. — Those which are not seeding 
must be kept from the heat of the sun; others 
which are going to seed must be watered, and 
have all the weather; but to prevent the heat 
from distressing the plant, by drying the fibres, 
through the pot, the pots should be sunk in 
?shes or saw-dust, or some other medium by 
which the sides of the pots may be kept cool ; 
those which are not seeding are better in a 
box, where they can be kept from violent falls 
and too much wet, and also be screened a 
little from the wind. The dead and dying 
leaves must be picked off; offsets, which are 
large enough, may be taken off", but generally 
this will do best at potting time. 
Pansies. — The continuance of the bloom of 
these flowers can only be ensured by a succes- 
sion of cuttings, which should be constantly 
taken off, the side-shoots being the best for 
this purpose ; and, by looking often to the 
plants, these are to be found sufficient for all 
purposes. Those which were in perfection 
early last month will have passed their prime 
by this month, and there are many ways to 
make them come to good account. Mr. Fyn- 
laison, of Kincardine, cuts them close to the 
ground, and puts some earth on them ; by 
which means young shoots come out in abun- 
dance, and are rooted so that they have 
merely to be separated and they make excel- 
lent plants. Those in good condition should 
be shaded, that the flowers may be prolonged; 
they should also be picked off wiien they begin 
to fade, as well as when they come imper- 
fectly, for every flower that is allowed to perfect 
itself, weakens all the successors. They should 
be freely watered, in the evening, over the 
foliage, as well as all over the bed. 
Carnations and Piccotees. — These gene- 
rally require attention as to placing them, so 
that vermin may not be able to get at them, 
and where it will be convenient to water 
them. When they throw up their flower- 
stems, they must not be allowed to grow more 
than one to aplant, unless in a few instances, — - 
where a flower is large and inclined to ful- 
ness, and when it can only be checked by 
giving the root more work. Some flowers are 
so full and double as to be inclined to burst, 
and on that account want different treatment. 
The general plan is to take away all but the 
strongest shoot ; and then, as soon as the 
buds are developed, and they can be laid 
hold of, they should be reduced to two or 
three, and these should not be too close toge- 
ther. The earwigs are sad enemies to these 
plants, externally, and the wire-worm is the 
greatest plague within the pot ; both are de- 
structive in their way : the earwig, if it gets 
into a flower, bites off the small tender bases 
of the petals, and a fine flower by these means 
is destroyed in a night ; the other attacks the 
root, and works its way up the centre to the 
heart of the plant. To get rid of earwigs, 
the pots are generally placed on a stage sup- 
ported by legs or props which stand in water; 
with regard to the wire-worm, if a plant flags, 
the enemy is at its root, and should be found, 
as the only means of saving the other plants 
in the same pot. If any of these plants ad- 
vance too fast, those which are the most for- 
ward should lose their principal or forwardest 
buds, as the only means of throwing them 
back ; otherwise the lateral-bloom buds are 
taken in preference, and thus they may be 
regulated in a small degree. This month they 
may have all the weather; but if there be not 
refreshing showers, they must have water, not 
to keep them constantly wet, but to prevent 
their getting dry. 
Annuals on the borders where they have 
been sown to bloom, must be thinned, so as 
not to crowd one another ; and all vacancies 
may be filled up by plants of any kind, — either 
the tender plants from the frames, or those from 
the patches or beds. All that are now planted 
out from the late sowings will make a com- 
plete second season; and Balsams, Cockscombs, 
Mignionette, Sweet Peas, Lupins, China Asters, 
