FLOWER GARDEN. 
243 
Nemophila insignis, Calliopsis of sorts, and 
other subjects brought forward in pots, will be 
found useful in finishing off the borders. 
Biennials and Perennials may still be 
planted out. The Sweet William, Canterbury 
Bell, both the pyramidalis and dwarf kinds, 
and many others, may be still carefully moved, 
where they are growing near the spot, and of 
course those kept in pots may be turned out 
even while in bloom. 
Double Wall-Flowers may be propa- 
gated. As soon as they are out of bloom, 
they should be either placed in the shade in 
their pots, or turned into the open ground and 
well watered, to induce growth. When the 
new shoots are an inch and a half or two 
inches long, they may be stripped off and 
placed in the ground, under a hand-glass, 
where, if shaded from the hot sun, and well 
watered, they will soon strike root. 
All kinds of Bulbs not yet taken up, and 
which are to come up at all, should be at- 
tended to this month. Crocusses and Early 
Tulips, Hyacinth and Narcissus, Cycla- 
mens, Early Ranunculuses, and Ane- 
mones that have done blooming and begun 
to turn yellow, should be taken up carefully, 
dried in the shade, and, when cleared of their 
leaves, they should be placed away in boxes. 
Ranunculuses and Anemones planted 
in February are advancing to bloom, and 
should be copiously watered, and shaded from 
the hot sun : hoops and mats are usually re- 
sorted to. The transparent waterproof cloth 
would be found much lighter and better; even 
common holland, at a trifling expense, if on 
a sharpish ridge, would throw off' water, and 
be lighter. In shading, the cloth ought not 
to be closer down than will just keep off the 
sun ; for air is indispensable, and water will 
not injure the blooms, until they are pretty 
forward, but sun will injure them from the time 
they show colour. There are some who shade 
them by means of a flat screen, supported at a 
distance, that they may not be deprived of 
air, but it is troublesome ; and it does not do 
to plant tnem in the shade, because they want 
sun to bring them forward, and again when 
their bloom is off. Some persons water the 
Ranunculus by means of a couple of pipes, 
full of holes, that go the length of the bed, a 
foot or fifteen inches below the surface ; then 
communicate with one that comes above the 
surface, with a sort of funnel to it, and, by 
pouring water into it to fill the pipes, the 
bottom is always kept cool and. moist without 
watering the surface ; but it is one of those 
plans which we notice rather to object to it 
than approve. All flowers and plants want 
water on their foliage as well as their roots ; 
and although this plan, which we have read 
of as having been practised at Norwich, will ! 
supply the roots, and work well, by capillary 
attraction, drawn up towards the surface, a 
sprinkle, frequently, on the foliage will do more 
good than theorists' imagine ; besides, we have 
seen wonderful growth and. bloom without 
such contrivances, and prefer natural to un- 
natural means at all times. 
Autumnal Crocusses may be removed, 
but they must not be kept out of the ground 
veiy long, and it is quite as well if they are 
replanted at once, or, unless they are too 
thick, they are better not moved at all ; yet, 
when they have been in the ground some 
three years, they require to be parted. 
Amaryllis lutea, and other autumn 
flowering bulbs, may be removed and planted, 
all this month and next. 
Dressing the Borders, by stirring the 
earth, raking off all the weeds and stones, 
tying up all straggling plants, supporting 
weakly flowers, cutting off decayed blooms, 
and cutting down all the tall plants as they 
cease flowering, should be attended to all the 
month. Exceptions as to cutting off decayed 
flowers must be made in cases where you 
require seed. 
Cuttings may be taken from Fuchsias, Ver- 
benas, Petunias, Pansies, greenhouse plants of 
various kinds, Geraniums which have done 
blooming, and almost any subject, towards the 
end of the month ; and almost everything will 
strike under a common hand-glass, even in 
the common borders, if shaded. 
Destruction of Vermin. — Aphides, small 
caterpillars, the black fly, and many other 
pests, may be kept under by syringing, out of 
doors, and by fumigating and syringing in- 
doors. Slugs will congregate in the shady 
borders during the hot weather, and especially 
under all heavy crops. Polyanthuses and Prim- 
roses, Pansies and choice Violets, are especi- 
ally harbours for them, and must be constantly 
looked after. Many things may be guarded 
by a border of lime, but they do not look the 
better for such an addition. Earwigs must 
be trapped, as for Dahlias. 
Roses. — Towards the latter part of the 
month you may prepare for budding. Cut 
away all the branches of stocks but the ones 
you intend to bud upon, that, these may 
strengthen ; and if one branch is much 
stronger than the others, you may rely on 
that alone, as it will keep the lead if you bud 
the weaker ones. Next month will be better 
for extensive operations ; but you may look 
out for buds, and prepare yourself. If you 
really get buds this month, you must en- 
deavour to use them. The budding of 
Roses with success depends much upon the 
condition of the stock : if the bark will rise 
well, the bud will take well, for we are 
no advocates for stripping out the inner 
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