2G0 
THE CULTIVATION AND MANAGEMENT OF ROSES. 
treated on at any length, if at all, we may fairly 
request attention to it. 
The three cuts which are in illustration of 
this article, though not very accurate, show 
the first year's growth of two buds placed in 
a stock, with dotted lines at the place we 
should cut them ; the second year's growth 
after such cutting, with dotted lines where we 
should cut them again ; and the third year's 
growth is indicated by lines which give some 
idea of it. But neither of these cuts are exactly 
what we like ; first, because our pen and ink 
sketches were imperfect, we being unable to 
draw exactly what we wanted ; and, secondly, 
because the artist, who could have drawn it, 
did not know what we wanted. There is 
enough, however, done to assist in our lesson 
on Pruning Standards, though not to the 
extent we wished. 
PRUNING AND TRAINING PILLAR ROSES. 
Although we have touched on the pruning of 
bushes, and upon the pruning of climbers when 
first planted — it only related to the mere ope- 
ration of pruning them for growth, in the posi- 
tion they were to remain ; and here, for the 
sake of the poor Roses themselves and the 
pillars they are to ornament, we will suppose 
they are cut down to the ground, or nearly 
so, and have made a fresh growth, or rather, 
are making fresh growth. Pillars for Roses 
ought to be a foot in diameter, and are best 
made of trellis work or rods of iron, or if it 
must be so, of wood ; but they ought to be one 
foot through. As the leading shoots come, 
they ought to be wound spirally round the 
pillar, at such distance from each other as 
will enable them to fill up the space between 
with foliage ; their leading shoots then con- 
stitute the tree, and all the side shoots bear 
their blooms, and form a pillar of Roses. We 
do not mean that this is all done in a year, 
though some kinds go a long way towards it ; 
here, as in all other cases of Rose-pruning, the 
little weak shoots must be removed, the 
strongest left on all the way up, and should 
be shortened to two eyes. If the tops here die 
down at all, shorten them to the top strong eye, 
not to the top eye, for several near the top 
may be found weak, and they would never be 
otherwise, whereas the stronger one will grow 
fast and soon supply t^he place of the old top. 
When the buds first show in spring, it will be 
right to go over the Roses carefully to remove 
any that are in the way, and the growth of 
some Roses will be found so different to that 
of others, that one sort will want enormous 
room to develop its shoots and blooms, while 
another will make but short branches and 
bloom abundantly. These characteristics will 
be discovered in a year's growth, if not 
well explained before hand, and the provision 
can be made accordingly. Many Pillar or 
Climbing-roses are made to run over arches 
from pillar to pillar, or along festoons from 
pillar to pillar: the best way to manage those 
parts which form the arch or the festoon, is 
merely to thin out their weak branches with- 
out shortening their strong ones, because they 
will bloom more abundantly, which is the great 
charm ; and the loose and free manner in which 
they hang about, will be to their advantage, so 
they be kept within bounds a little. 
PRUNING AND TEAINING OF ROSES ON FLAT TREL- 
LISES, WALLS, AND FRONTS OF HOUSES. 
The management of this family is very 
similar to that of Pillar-roses, except that the 
leading shoots must be encouraged to grow the 
best way to fill up the space allotted to the 
plant, for which purpose it will be advisable, 
in some cases, to train the strongest two shoots 
horizontally right and left along the bottom ; 
or if the space to cover be only one way, 
to train one strong shoot along the bottom, 
and turn it up at the end : if it reach further, 
the rest of the strong shoots may be fanned out 
at equidistances, and all the weak joints re- 
moved. The next year rub off the buds that 
are coming where they are not wanted. Allow 
any strong shoots that come up from the 
bottom horizontal shoot, to grow as much as 
they will, but no weak ones. A fast-growing 
Rose will soon cover a house front, a trellis, or 
wall, and flower all over. When the space 
gets filled, you must continue cutting out, from 
year to year, all thin spindley shoots, and spare 
the strong ones, so that the strongest eyes only 
are developed instead of all of them ; and the 
roses are closely set to their wall or trellis, 
instead of hanging lolloping about ; the very 
thing which is good on a pillar, or an arbour, 
or over an arch-way, or on festoons, being the 
reverse on a flat surface. As a never-failing 
operation, however, in all cases, the weak 
spindley shoots may always be removed, 
whether the strong wood be shortened or not. 
POTTING DECIDUOUS ROSES FOR FORCING. 
The nearer you can imitate planting in the 
open ground the better. The soil should be 
the same or richer, with dung chiefly, because 
you cannot water soil without washing away, in 
some measure, whatever it is impregnated with 
that is soluble. By a parity of reasoning you 
cannot moisten with water impregnated with 
any thing, without imparting the virtue or mis- 
chief of the solution to the soil. It is the best 
way to use half of rotted turf and half of rotted 
dung ; if it be not light enough to allow water 
to pass freely, add a little turfy peat, broken 
through a sieve that would pass a hazel nut. 
Trim the roots, to get rid of all bruises ; and, 
in the first instance, choose plants whose roots 
