THE CULTIVATION AND MANAGEMENT OF HOSES. 
201 
are within a moderate compass, for pot culture, 
and well taken up. Select pots that will re- 
ceive the roots without much cramping; care- 
fully put the soil between and among the fibres 
and larger roots ; strike the pots on the potting 
table, and poke the soil down so as to be firm. 
If the Roses be dwarf, follow the directions 
about pruning at once, and let them be placed 
in a cold frame watered, to settle the earth 
about them, and covered up. This should be 
done from November to February, when those 
for forcing should be put into the greenhouse, 
gently increased in temperature, well watered, 
and kept growing hard ,• any buds that show 
should be removed, and they should be allowed 
to complete their growth, and then plunged in 
the open ground, and there the wood be per- 
mitted to ripen. When the leaves have fallen, 
and the wood is fairly ripe, they may be 
pruned, by removing all the weak shoots, and 
shortening the strong ones; the balls turned out 
to examine, and if matted with roots, pots a 
size larger be given. They may then be placed 
in a cold frame, plunged to their rims, until 
the period you want to force them. They 
will flower better the second year than they 
could have flowered the first, and if the blooms 
are all picked off" again as fast as they show, 
instead of being allowed to perfect themselves, 
the growth will be more free ; and by growing 
hard to complete it early, and leaving them out 
again to ripen, they will allow of being pruned 
into a handsome form, being carried into the 
house sooner, and will flower most abundantly, 
instead of having one or two sickly shoots with 
their miserable half-starved blooms. At the 
end they will have as many as you please to 
leave eyes for, pruning them the same as you 
would standards or bushes out of doors, and 
the blooms will come as rich, as handsome, 
and as well-coloured as any in the open air. 
Roses may then be forced at almost any season, 
only they ought to undergo the same forcing 
a season or two without being allowed to flower, 
that they undergo the season they are to be 
forced into bloom. And this will answer sea- 
son after season when they are once well-esta- 
blished, for they require only the usual shifts 
of plants, which have their balls matted with 
root : but of the forcing more hereafter. 
POTTING FOR SHOW. 
As it is at length the fashion to show Roses 
in pots, the only proper plan of showing any 
but single blooms, face upwards, the plan 
of potting cannot differ from those potted 
for forcing. Presuming that if they are 
late roses and require forcing, they will be 
treated after the plan above mentioned, so far 
as the potting is concerned ; the difference be- 
tween what the perfectly hardy and summer or 
autumn blooming Roses will require after 
potting, as we have directed, is to be put out in 
an open situation; and if standards, they should 
be fastened to a rail or trellis, as well as being 
plunged in their pots, that the wind may not 
disturb them. Here they may be protected 
various ways : a mat thrown over the head of 
a rose protected it, though not a very hardy one, 
against the last winter's frost. A wisp of straw 
tied at one end, and opened cap-like over each 
and among the branches of Roses, protected them 
a good deal, and probably, had they not been 
autumn-pruned, might have protected them 
entirely from mischief; but, as it was, some of 
the pruned branches died back, though the un- 
prunecl ones did not. 
Rosa Microphylla. 
POTTING THE SMALL, THE SMOOTH WOODED, AND 
CHINESE VARIETIES. 
Here, from the first, the soil should be one- 
third rotted dung, one-third peat, and one- 
third the loam of rotted turf. In this stuff the 
most delicate will succeed. From the period 
of their having struck root, they can hardly 
do wrong if potted in this soil, in a proper 
sized pot, with ordinary drainage. Small 
plants should be placed in pots no larger than 
the roots require to hold them, with a mode- 
rate share of earth to live in. This kind of 
Rose should be kept growing in a cool frame or 
greenhouse, or pit, with not much moisture ; 
plenty of air in dry mild days, and a refresh- 
ing shower when it is warm. It is safer to 
plunge them in ashes, if you can, up to the 
rims of their pots : it keeps them moist longer 
than if the pot is exposed, and the frost can- 
not so well reach the fibres of the root, which, 
when the pot is exposed, it mostly does, in 
bad weather ; and though it perhaps does not 
kifl them, it makes them weakly for some time. 
In this they may grow from time to time, 
