THE CULTIVATION AND MANAGEMENT OF HOSES. 
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which buds were placed should be cut off close, 
as well as all side-growths, if they are intended 
for budding ; but if for grafting, the side- 
shoots may be strong enough to graft on; for., 
if grafts, and the shoot grafted on, be nearly 
alike, the graft may be all the safer, and the 
place of union more completely healed than 
when small grafts are placed in large Stocks. 
This month is a good one for grafting, though 
the operation may be performed successfully 
in March. Cut back to two eyes all that have 
been left unpruned, by which late pruning 
back, the blooming will be protracted con- 
siderably. 
May. — This is an important month with the 
Rose. First and foremost, the vigilance in look- 
ing for the breaking buds of Stocks, which 
would rob the head of its growth, must be 
doubled, and every three or four days they must 
be examined and rubbed off. Suckers must also 
be grubbed up the instant they appear. The 
shoots of the buds of last year will make rapid 
growth, and require to be screened, that the 
wind may not break them out or damage 
mem; and it is a very good plan to tie a stick 
to the stem, to reach a foot above it, and this 
does well to support any of the shoots. But 
when a bud throws up a very strong shoot, it 
is well to take the top off as soon as there are 
two pair of leaves, for it will make the shoot 
form a head the first season; but, in any case, 
the shoots must be supported by a loose tie to 
the stick above mentioned. 
June. — This treatment may be continued 
throughout the month; and in all the summer, 
or growing months, great diligence must be 
used to prevent the Stocks from growing from 
their own wood, instead of throwing all their 
strength into the grafts and buds. It is time 
also to be looking out for sorts you intend to 
bud with, either by buying the plants outright, 
or bespeaking buds for the season; and if any 
come in your way about the end of the month, 
do not be afraid of budding on the strongest 
wood you can find of the present season's 
growth among the Stocks, though you may 
properly choose a later season if you have 
nothing to hurry you. 
July. — If this month of the season be at 
all forward, you may bud ; and if you have 
wood given to you when you are not ready 
for it, put the ends in wet sand, in the shade, 
and a hand glass over them; but the sooner 
you can use the buds after you have got them 
the better. The Stocks must be cut in com- 
pletely all over, except one or two eyes 
beyond the bud on the branches in which the 
bud is inserted. All China-roses in pots or 
out-of-doors, may be budded, and so also may 
all the smooth-barked kinds. 
August. — Continue the budding, and using 
every precaution to prevent the Stock from 
growing, and to remove suckers the instant 
they appear above ground. Nothing should 
be allowed to grow, except, just beyond the 
bud, a shoot may be beneficial, as it draws the 
sap past the bud ; but as soon as it is united 
and doing well, anything growing beyond it 
may be broken off, or bent down, to check it 
a little. Cuttings of the smootli -barked kind 
will strike almost every month in the year; 
but at the end of this month, whatever you 
may be anxious to propagate may be struck 
in the shade, under a hand-glass, or even 
quicker where there is a little bottom-heat. 
September. — You may now examine the 
budded plants, and undo the ties of any that 
appear to swell, tying them more loosely, 
although tight enough to hold in the bud. If 
any of the buds have failed, you may open a 
fresh place, and insert others; but if well 
done, this will seldom be the case. Continue 
to remove any shoots or eyes that are showing 
growth in the stock, for on this much depends. 
Cuttings from the smooth-wooded kinds may 
be taken and struck, and any that are struck 
may be potted off in small pots. 
October. — Towards the end of the month 
look out for healthy stocks, or get some one in 
that way of business to collect for you. 
Always choose, and make any who undertake 
to supply you understand that you require 
strong stems, perfectly straight, with compact 
roots, that have not been much damaged by 
removal. Any that you get should be at once 
trimmed and planted in rows, about eighteen 
inches apart, and the rows wide enough to 
enable you to go up and down them well, to 
operate in the way of grafting and budding 
when required. Many of the budded stocks 
may now be untied altogether, but it is not 
well to cut the branches in which they are 
budded close down to the bud until the spring 
months. As they would be more susceptible 
of damage by frost, let them all be properly 
sheltered, and fastened, if they have become 
loosened. Shorten the longest branches of 
Standard-roses, that they may not hold the 
wind so much; and although it would be im- 
proper to prune, their close back branches may 
be cut clean away, because they are of no use 
on the tree. Cuttings of the China and smooth- 
wooded kinds may be taken now for general 
propagation. The plants will be the better 
for losing the wood, especially all the dwarfs 
in pots. 
November. — This is the best month in the 
year, if the weather is dry and open, for 
planting out the garden sorts of Rose trees 
and bushes; therefore, all removals should be 
performed as soon as convenient, according to 
the plan pointed out in the foregoing treatise. 
The leaves of all the garden sorts are falling, 
or have fallen. Some of the perpetuals, and 
