292 
FLOWER GARDENo 
Plants, may be put out in the borders where- 
evor there is space; and early flowers, that 
have done blooming, should be removed or cut 
down, to make more room, and leave the place 
more neat. Fuchsias in pots may be either 
plunged or planted out, and the beds and 
borders should be finished ofF every few days, 
for the decayed annuals, and other declining 
flowers, render this necessary. 
Annuals, sown in the open ground, for 
planting out, may be used to fill up blank 
places in beds and borders, as they will bloom 
well late in the season. China Asters, Mari- 
golds, Stocks, &c. will keep up a succession of 
flowers until cut off by the frosts. Balsams, 
and many other subjects sown late or stunted, 
or re-potted, all this time assist greatly in the 
decoration of gardens. Tie up all the long 
straggling plants and flowers that require it, 
such as Sweet Peas, Tropaeolums, and Del- 
phineums. Almost any sort may be still 
sown, to bloom late, and through the winter in 
pots, under protection. Mignonette, Stocks, 
Sweet Peas, and many others, will grow well 
in pots, and flower in the winter time in the 
conservatory or green-house. 
Tulips that are yet out in the ground must 
be taken up, and dried in the shade, previ- 
ous to storing. All other spring flowering 
bulbs that are not yet taken up should be 
taken up. 
Pinks. — The pipings of Pinks not yet 
taken off for striking should be attended to 
directly. This is properly done late in last 
month or early in this. They are broken 
off or cut up to a joint, their lower leaves strip- 
ped off, and placed in very damp, or indeed, 
wet soil, for it should be previously soaked like 
mud. Place the pipings in the soil, and cover 
with a hand-glass. Take care that they are 
kept moist until they strike. It has been the 
practice to cut the ends of the leaves off" 
square, so that they may take less room; but 
this plan is now abandoned by the better 
florists, as they are found to be stronger and 
better with the foliage on, except some of the 
under leaves removed to make a space free 
for insertion in the soil. Beds of Pinks have 
gone off the prime of their bloom by this 
time in most seasons and places, and, where 
the seed is wanted, it is better to remove the 
decayed petals from the pod, for they hold the 
wet, and are apt to cause the seed to rot ; 
and those which are seeding should have 
water in dry weather. 
Roses should be now budded, and when the 
young gardener has made himself acquainted 
with the routine and the principle of the prac- 
tice, he can perform it twenty ways. The only 
thing required is to remove a leaf from the 
rose to be propagated with a slip of the bark 
half an inch long, and to place it under the 
bark of the stock on which it is to be budded. 
To do this, the most simple way we know of, 
and have directed, is that of cutting a slit 
along the bark of the one-year-old wood, and 
with the thin edge of the handle of the bud- 
ding knife, which can be tucked under on 
each side, raise the bark of the stock from its 
wood. This is, however, facilitated a little by 
a cross cut, and the bark on which the leaf is 
can be tucked under and bound down with 
bast ; for if the inner side of the bark of one 
can be brought in contact with the wood 
under the bark of another, and fastened there, 
the union takes place as perfect as a bud of 
the same tree. It will occur, therefore, to 
whoever performs this operation, that the 
quicker it is done the better ; indeed, if 
either has time to dry, it is great odds if they 
ever unite at all. Now, the only requisite 
being once understood, it matters not how it 
is accomplished. Some cut round the piece 
of wood from whence the bud is to be taken, 
half an inch above the leaf and half an inch 
below it, just through the bark ; then on 
the side opposite the leaf they cut a straight 
cut through the bark from one ring to the 
other. The bark may be separated from the 
wood with the greatest ease, by raising it on 
both sides the cut, and it peels off. A piece 
of wood on the stock is selected, about the 
same size, and a piece of bark the exact length 
is raised in a like manner, and peeled off; the 
bark with the leaf on it is placed where the 
other came off, and bound there, no matter 
whether the two edges of the bark meet at 
the back, so it but meet the bark of the stock 
at top and bottom. This budding is men- 
tioned merely to illustrate the fact that it 
matters but little how the new Rose is budded 
to the old — the union is pretty easily secured. 
The cuttings of China Roses may be struck 
at any time, if a speedy increase is required ; 
but it is only in cases of emergency that it 
would be done in this month. Cut off the 
dead blooms of all Roses, except those you 
mean to seed from, they are both weakening 
and untidy. 
Camellias will have set their bloom, and 
may be inarched. This is done by cutting a 
stock, which is generally a single Camellia, or 
some other of little use, one third away on one 
side, to make a flat side to the stem ; then cut 
the branch of one ycu wish to graft, so that 
the two flat sides will make a tolerably even 
join ; then cut a gash very carefully in the 
middle of each flat side, downwards in one 
and upwards in the other, as nearly alike as 
possible, tucking the tongues thus formed into 
the gashes of each other, — this simply makes 
the join stronger. These plants are necessa- 
rily placed close together, and bound together 
at the place. In six weeks or two months 
