FRUIT GARDEN. 
207 
Carrots may also be sown ; they will come 
in for autumn and winter use. The ground 
should be well dressed, trenched, and laid 
even, before the sowing ; and, as soon as they 
are fairly up, they should be weeded and 
thinned. 
Cabbage. — Sow Cabbage seed, to use as 
coleworts. The third or fourth week will be 
time enough ; if they are sown earlier they 
may run, and disappoint you. Plant out Cab- 
bages where crops are off, and there is room ; 
they are a useful crop, and a succession should 
always be kept up. Plant out Cabbages also 
for pickling. 
Kidney Beans may be planted still, if they 
happen to be favourites ; a few at the begin- 
ning, and a few at the end of the month. 
Earth up those which are forward. 
Broad Beans. — Top those which are com- 
* ing into flower ; it throws the strength of the 
plant into the fruit, instead of wasting it in 
further growth. Draw the earth up the 
stems of the rows which are up, and are 
advancing. 
Herbs. — Gather, if not done last month, 
dry in the shade, and out of the way of the 
rain, and too much draft. Herbs, if dried at 
all, are worth drying properly ; and half those 
that are taken to market, have grown until 
they have lost the best of their flavour, and 
dried, till there is hardly any left. Plant Sage, 
Mint, Savory, &c. ; tear down the slips, if you 
have no seedlings, and make one plant into a 
good many. 
Leeks and Parsnips, and even Turnips, 
will transplant to great advantage. The first, 
as soon as they are large enough to handle ; 
the others, as soon as they have four rough 
leaves ; six inches apart, in rows a foot apart, 
will do for distance. 
Cucumbers. — Those in frames require air 
and shade during the heat of the day, and 
regulating the vines to go equally all about 
the space they have to cover. Those in the 
open ground only require regulating, and peg- 
ging down the shoots, to prevent the wind 
from blowing them about, and disturbing 
them. When the shoots of frame Cucumbers 
get to the extent of the frame, if they are 
prolific, lift up the frame, and let the vines 
run outside; if they are not fruiting well, take 
off the ends. 
Turnips. — Sow once or twice this month, 
after a shower of rain has prepared the ground. 
Hoe and clean any that are well up, and clear 
out every weed ; leave the Turnips about six 
inches apart every way. 
Celery. — Earth up any that is growing in 
the trenches, and plant out more in trenches, 
a foot deep. Put some dung at the bottom, 
which is to be well forked into the soil within 
the trench ; they may be a foot apart. 
Savoys and Winter Greens may be 
planted out in small quantities, and small ones 
may be pricked out from the seed-beds, to get 
strength ready for later planting. 
Brocoli, Brussels Sprouts, &c, may be 
pricked out from the seed-bed into nursery- 
beds, six inches apart, to grow into strength. 
Seed, also, may be sown for late crops ; those 
large enough to be planted out may be 
planted out for a principal early crop, choos- 
ing, if possible, the period after rains for the 
operation. 
Remove all the remains of crops which are 
done with, and dig and dress the ground, 
where it is required. Hoe up the weeds, and 
stir the earth between all crops. Stick Peas 
and Scarlet Beans, which are requiring it. 
Earth up the crops which want it, such as 
Peas, Beans, Cauliflowers, Cabbages. Clean 
the paths, and keep clear of weeds everywhere. 
fruit garden. 
Vines. — Go over these to remove all shoots 
that are not required, and strengthen the 
remainder. If not done before, stop all the 
shoots on which there is fruit, one joint 
beyond the grapes, and tack all the growing 
and fruiting shoots to the wall. Leave no 
shoots growing but those intended to bear the 
next season, and these should be the strongest 
only. 
Wall-fruit Trees. — If you have not 
completed last month's work, you must lose 
no time in removing all the weak and useless 
shoots, and all those which grow outwards 
from the wall, and tack all the best shoots to 
the wall. Thin the fruit again, if you have not 
yet done it effectually. Where there are any 
shoots that seem more than usually vigorous, 
remove them, for they will frequently take 
the whole strength of a tree. None of the 
branches should be shortened. 
Budding- should be done this month. 
Peaches, Nectarines, Apricots, may be bud- 
ded in Almond stocks; but Plum- stocks, raised 
from the kernels of the fruit, or from suckers, 
are the best, and most lasting. Cherries 
should be budded in Cherry-stocks; and Pears, 
either upon Pear-stocks, or Quince-stocks ; 
those on Quince-stocks do not grow so tall, 
and they bear sooner. Plums should be budded 
on Plum-stocks. Budding should be performed 
within six inches of the ground. The bud- 
ding is accomplished by removing, with a 
short knife, a portion of the bark, with a leaf 
from the tree you wish to propagate, and by 
making a cross incision, and. raising the bark 
on each side, tucking in the bark with the leaf 
on it, which, in fact, contains the bud beneath 
the bark of the stock, and then fastening it 
so closely, that the new bark unites with the 
old stock, and the bud becomes a part and 
