FLOWER GARDEN. 
387 
Carnation, is in forty-eight -sized pots, two in 
a pot, though many use large sixties, and place 
only one in a pot ; but as they are always 
bloomed in pairs at least, if not threes, they 
are far better stored in pairs. Use for the 
soil a good light loam, in which the turf has 
rotted, and, if it be too adhesive, mix a little 
sand very judiciously. Let the pot be one- 
third full of crocks or sherds, and the remain- 
der be filled with the loam. Plant the two 
layers (having first, with a clean sharp knife, 
cut off the unrooted portion of the stem up to 
a joint), opposite each other, against the sides 
of the pot ; shake the earth well down, but do 
not press it, and water the whole of them, to 
settle the earth about their roots. They may 
be placed at once in their winter quarters, 
and be treated like the Auricula, for they are 
as easily damaged by damp as anything we 
know of. The effect of the damp in Carna- 
tions and Piccotees is mildew, which develops 
itself in spots over the foliage, and will some- 
times render a whole collection unhealthy. 
Let nothing, therefore, that we have recom- 
mended for the Auricula, be neglected, for 
there the importance of the dry bottom, plenty 
of air, very moderate or hardly any water, is, 
in all respects, as great. Seedling Carnations 
and Piccotees may be either planted out on a 
well-raised and drained bed of good loam, or 
potted singly in large sixty-sized pots : the 
circumstances of seedlings being different to 
that of named flowers. If they were potted 
in pairs, each pair, to use an awkward phrase, 
being two odd ones, you could not throw the 
worthless ones away without disturbing the 
other ; and if they were to be planted out in 
spring, each plant ought to be, at least, six 
inches from others in the same row, and 
would be the better for nine ; so that, if pot- 
ted in pairs, the ball of earth would have to be 
disturbed, to the manifest injury of both 
plants. In the winter months they should be 
protected against much frost. It is not a little 
that would hurt them. A very good author 
in practical matters, says, " I find it necessaiy 
to give them plenty of air, and keep them per- 
fectly free from damp. They require no 
more than this, and it is quite a matter of 
indifference how this is done." 
Bulbs. — Purchase these always as soon as 
they are imported, and, according to the uses 
you are going to put them to, so you must dis- 
pose ot them. If they are for forcing, the 
sooner they are potted and put in a dark place, 
the better. They will not make any progress for 
some time, and it is a common, and, perhaps, 
an easy plan, to place them together in the 
part of the garden where they would be most 
out of the way, after they are potted, and so 
cover them four inches with sawdust, dry tan 
or ashes. From this place they are taken 
from time to time, as wanted, and placed in 
the forcing frame or pit, to be forwarded ac- 
cording to the period they are wanted to bloom. 
This will apply to all bulbs that are to be 
forced, or grown and bloomed in pots. 
Hyacinths. — Half of such as are to be 
bloomed in water, should be immediately placed 
in their glasses, and taken into a dark cellar or 
cupboard at once ; care must be taken that 
the water reaches the bottom of the bulb, until 
the roots are developed sufficiently. Change 
the water once in three weeks. The other 
half must be kept in the dry for a month 
longer, before they are put in their glasses. 
Those Hyacinths destined to be planted in the 
open ground, may be planted in two seasons, 
or both the early and late flowers at the same 
time, but not in the same bed. It is certain 
that there is as much as three weeks' difference 
between the sorts called early, and those con- 
sidered late ; and for planting out of doors in 
a bed, the one is quite incompatible with the 
other. Wherever the bulbs are purchased, the 
most distinct instructions should be given, 
that all the assortments must be picked to 
bloom at the same time. It is also essential 
that you do not try to grow many varieties in 
a bed of this description. None but the dwarf 
compact blooming varieties should be at- 
tempted, for it does not do to be obliged to tie 
up, or support in any way, the plants to form 
an arranged bed of flowers. In the arrange- 
ment, too, it will be proper to observe contrast 
and uniformity. The colours should be diver- 
sified, but so also must be the planting. The 
bed should in effect be the same as that of 
Tulips. Seven bulbs in a row, and the rows 
across the bed to be six inches apart, so that 
whatever be the length of the bed, the flowers 
will be six inches apart every way. The next 
point to attend to, is to see that no two colours 
come alike, or even nearly alike, in the same 
row, either across the bed, or along the bed. 
It is, in fact, more than half the battle to make 
the colours come uniform and pretty, and to 
carry the diversity as far as possible. We 
should only have as many sorts as there are 
colours, and those should be the most dwarf 
and most compact, as well as the most bright 
we could find, that would all bloom at once. 
Z/'amie de cour is a good specimen of the 
kind we should look for to plant in a bed ; it 
is a decidedly dark blue, blooms almost down 
to the ground ; and we should want the best, 
light blue, dark red, light red, white, and yel- 
low, we could get to arrange with them. Of 
the sorts adapted the dealers are the best 
aware, because it is their business ; and if the 
one we have named be mentioned to the par- 
ties, as the style of plant wanted, they will 
find the other colours. With these six varie- 
ties, w r e should form one bed, so that no two 
