150 
STOVE TLANTS FOR EXHIBITIONS. 
exhibitions doring the season, where it has 
been highly rewarded and greatly admired. It 
appears to have first bloomed with Messrs. 
Witch, in June of the present year. 
Ii [s probable that, as the plant becomes 
better known, it will succeed in a warm green- 
house; at least after it lias been brought into 
growth in the spring. It should he potted 
into a moderately rich loamy soil, into pots of 
moderate size, well drained; and, like the 
allied species, will require a tolerably free 
supply of water, and hence the necessity of 
having the pots well drained, so as to prevent 
the stagnation of the moisture about the roots. 
In the winter season it should be kept at rest 
as much as possible, and again excited into 
growth in the spring. 
From its continuing such a length of time 
in bloom, and the brilliant colour of its flowers, 
it will probably be found to be one of the most 
useful plants that have of late been intro- 
duced. 
STOVE FLANTS FOR EXHIBITIONS, AND 
THEIR MANAGEMENT. 
Of course Orchideous plants are not allowed 
to be exhibited in a class of this sort; and we 
must find, among the general collection, a few 
genera from which we can make a selection 
at proper times. For this purpose we have 
to look to various seasons of showing, and to 
the necessity of taking such as bear a good 
deal of flower, without any very coarse fea- 
ture in the foliage. Let us commence with — 
Ixora coccinea, splendid scarlet. 
alba, white. 
Euphorbia splendens, crimson. 
jacquiniflora, scarlet. 
Cuphea Melvilla, red and orange. 
Amaryllis, in variety, red, white, pink 
striped. 
Curcuma Moscoeana, rosy and yellow. 
Gardenia grandiflora, white. 
■ radicans, white. 
Gesnera, varieties, red, orange, &c. 
Gloxinia, varieties, purple, white, &c. 
Poimettia pidcherrima, crimson. 
Hondeletia sjoeciosa, orange and red. 
Russellia juneea, scarlet. 
From these there will always be a choice ; 
and while some are rather difficult to manage, 
others will grow without any trouble. Among 
the most difficult, on many accounts, we may 
place the Ixoras, Russellia juneea, and Eu- 
phorbia jacquiniflora. They require as much 
watching as infants ; they are subject to the 
mealy bug to such a degree (and particularly 
if there be any in the house), that twenty-four 
hours' neglect will spoil them. In speaking of 
the culture of stove-plants, there is little to 
direct for the one, that has not in some degree 
to be done for others, yet we may divide 
these into sections. 
The Gloxinias and Gesneras require 
the same treatment ; they are grown from 
bulbs, as they are called, which should be 
potted in such sized pots as to leave half an 
inch of soil all round them at the top, and 
their bulbs should be potted in the soil, deep 
enough to make the largest part of it level 
with the surface. These may be grown in a 
compost of equal parts of loam, leaf-mould, 
and peat-earth, and they should not be changed 
until the pot is quite full of root, and it is 
matted all round the ball next the pot ; for 
the object is to encourage bloom instead of 
foliage, which is sure to grow large enough; a 
half-inch shift then will be of use. 
The next section we will take, will be the 
Amaryllis and Curcuma Roscoe ana. These 
require nothing but the most ordinary atten- 
tion, and very little of it ; when they begin to 
shoot, they must be watered occasionally, and 
they bloom as it may happen. It can be 
hastened for shows, by plunging the pots to 
the rim in the tan of the pit, and so that they 
do not want water, they can take no great harm. 
The Poinsettia is a rambling grower, and 
must not be allowed to grow three inches 
from its cutting before the eye, or growing 
bud, must be taken carefully out. If it is an 
old plant when you commence, cut it into the 
best form you can before it begins to grow, and 
recollect that, unless the branches are stopped, 
they grow to six or eight feet in length ; 
therefore, that the only chance there is of 
growing a handsome bushy plant, is to begin 
with it from a cutting, or eye, and as soon as 
it has made two pair of leaves, or before the 
third pair has opened enough to allow it, 
pinch out the end of the shoot. Keep shifting 
the pots as fast as the old ones fill with roots, 
and when the plant has sent out side shoots, 
serve them the same, before they get longer 
than the first was, and so continue, till you 
have a handsome shaped plant, when all the 
shoots may make their full growth, and go to 
flower, which they do at the ends of the 
branches, the entire beauty of the plant, how- 
ever, depending on its bracts, which surround a 
very curious bunch of insignificant bloom. The 
Euphorbias, Cuphea Melvilla, and Ron- 
deletia speciosa, all require much the same 
treatment, so far as the shortening or stopping 
of the joints, and the constant shifting from 
one pot to another, as soon as the old one 
is fairly filled with roots ; for stove plants 
grow fast, and a little neglect will soon make 
a rambling plant. In shortening, or stopping 
the Euphorbias, it must be recollected that 
they bleed very much, therefore the smaller 
the wound, the less likely they are to die 
back. The Euphorbia jacquiniflora is very 
