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or untrained state, produce their fruit for the most part on the 
extremities of the branches only ; whilst those put under a course 
of cultivation, yield liberally from all sides of the leading shoots. 
In training the young shoots, therefore, regard must be had to 
these circumstances ; and the young shoots trained accordingly. 
In doing so, it is merely necessary in pruning to leave a series 
of leading shoots in a circular form, at nearly equal distances; 
about six, well placed, would form a good tree. These will 
produce plenty of laterals, which must in their turn be subjected 
to a severe thinning, at the pruning period, especially in their 
earlier stages. The fruit of the Nut is produced on the wood 
of the previous year, and, like other fruit trees, it will be sought 
in vain on luxuriant or gross shoots. In addition to thinning 
out, shortening must be had recourse to ; ariS when the tree 
has acquired a little age, the main shoots, shortened, will pro- 
duce axillary shoots, which, under proper circumstances, will 
produce blossoms. It is well known that the best period for 
pruning is when the Nuts are in blossom, which is commonly 
about the end of February ; in fact, when the catkins, which 
are the male blossoms, are shedding their fertilizing dust At 
this period, both male and female blossoms may be detected, and 
much of the wood which produces neither may be pruned away; 
especially if towards the interior of the bush. All the stronger 
shoots at the extremities should be shortened, in order to force 
out axillary shoots, for the succeeding year, which, if the trees 
be in a proper state, will, in the main, be of a fruitful character. 
At this period, if there be a deficiency of male blossoms, or cat- 
kins, it is necessary to bring some shoots, laden with catkins, 
from the wild Hazel, and suspend them amongst the Filberts: 
these will perform the indispensable office of impregnation. It 
may here be observed, that the female blossom is of a very 
obscure character, merely tipping the fruitful buds with a little 
crimson brush. 
We may here advert to the distance at which Filbert bushes 
should be planted. If they are for a single row, eight or nine 
feet will suffice. If in parallel rows, they require at least twelve 
feet between the rows ; and about eight between the plants. 
They succeed well when alternating with the Apple and other 
fruit trees ; occupying, in fact, the position frequently assigned 
to Gooseberry or Currant bushes. It is most important that 
