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Asparagus Forcing. Next in order, we have the As;i ara- 
gus, for which the opaque protectors, placed on the brick pit, 
before alluded to, will be peculiarly well adapted. We may 
here allude to the fact, that there are two very distinct and rival 
modes of forcing Asparagus; the one, forcing it in the beds 
where it grows, and the other removing the roots to a prepared 
bed of fermenting material, or bottom heat provided by other 
means. The plan of removing roots for forcing, probably 
originated through the necessity for destroying what are con- 
sidered worn-out beds, and planting fresh ones, and it seems 
to be a practice of long standing. In breaking up old beds, 
of course the idea naturally occurs, that it would be well to 
cause the roots to develope what remaining buds they possess; 
and hence it would be necessary to provide bottom heat, to give 
the requisite stimulus, without which they would scarcely be in 
advance of those in the ordinary soil. 
A very mild degree of heat is the best for Asparagus forcing; 
from 70 to 75 degrees is amply sufficient ; a bottom heat 
having been provided by means of any fermenting material, or 
otherwise. The roots must be taken up with as little damage as 
possible, reserving a moderate ball of earth about each ; such, 
indeed, in the case of full grown roots, will necessarily occur. 
The surface of the bed must have a few inches of rotten ma- 
nure, or old vegetable soil, for the fibres to root into ; and on 
this the crowns or roots must be set as thickly as it is possible 
to pack them, space being valuable. The fibres will thus over- 
lay each other, which is quite immaterial When they are all 
thus placed, some fine old vegetable soil, old tan, or even ordi- 
nary soil, must be shaken into the interstices, until level with 
the crowns. 
The opaque protector may now be put over the bed thus 
prepared ; and if it be a cold period, hot linings may be applied 
immediately, even covering the roof with litter, if necessary. A 
bottom heat of 70 degrees, at the least, must, by some means, 
be maintained for the first fortnight; and by that time the buds 
will begin to sprout, when a less amount of bottom heat will 
suffice. It becomes necessary now to use water for the first 
time, not because they are dry, but in order to wash the soil 
into every crevice ; and the water thus applied, will, of itself, 
cool the fermenting material, although applied lukewarm. When 
