104 
May, 1889. 
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Peach Y r ellows. 
"We know that the absorption of sap for 
the support of any tree or plant is carried 
on by a very short part of the roots near 
the tips. This short portion is covered with 
millions of microscopic hairs which con- 
stitute the absorptive organs of the plant, 
and the only source through which crude 
sap can be conveyed to the leaf laboratory, 
for elaboration into wood and fruit. We 
also know that no assimilation of atmos- 
pheric food can go on without healthy 
green foliage. Now if by any reason the 
young and tender portion of the roots and 
the root hairs are destroyed, the plant is 
unable to absorb those mineral substances 
upon which the perfection of the assimila- 
tive substance in the foliage t Chlorophijle ) 
depends, and a yellowish and sickly color 
is the result. If the damage to the rootlets is 
renewed as rapidly as the plant endeavors 
to repair them, its stored-up food is finally 
exhausted, and the tree dies. Now I have 
dug up and examined many trees showing 
symptoms of yellowsand I have never foimd 
ODe that was not covered by millions 
of black aphides destroying every young 
and tender rootlet. For years past I have 
mentioned this fact to fruit growers and 
others, and am told that the aphides were 
accompaniments and not causes of the trou- 
ble. To all of which I answer simply I can- 
not “see it" and cannot understand why the 
plant lice should go to the trouble to select 
trees for their work which were diseased 
instead of those which, previous to their at- 
tacks, had plenty of succulent roots ready 
for them. Another fact; we know that to- 
bacco is death to aphides of all kinds. Now 
if when I see a tree showing signs of “yel- 
lows" and at once spread a mulch of tobac- 
co dust or stems over the surface where the 
rootlets are feeding, so that the extract 
sinks in the soil, and after that find that the 
tree takes on fresh vigor, and renews its 
health, is it not fair to presume that the 
destruction of the insect enemies by r the to 
bacco had something to do with it? Cut off a 
man’s food supply and his assimilative and 
digestive functions will soon cease and he 
too may have yellows or something else. 
And a tree is like unto him Interrupt 
the absorption of sap, and the means 
for its proper elaboration, and it takes but 
little while to start a microscopic fer- 
ment and any number of fungoid growths, 
which are charged with the mischief while 
the cause works steadily away upon the 
roots, increasing with a rapidity which is 
inconceivable to any one who has never 
studied the marvellous reproductive pow- 
of the Aphis family. — W. F. Massey, Al- 
bemarle Co., Va. 
It has been recommended as a means of 
overcoming the black knot on plum trees 
to apply Unseed oil, turpentine or kerosene 
with a small brush as soon as the warts 
appear, and as they do not all come out at 
once it should be applied three times during 
the summer. Warts on the cherry may be 
treated in the same way. 
Care of Vines and Summer Pruning. 
If all the rotten grapes of last season 
lying on the ground are covered so deeply 
at the first plowing that the after cultiva- 
tion will not reach them, the danger of rot 
will be greatly lessened. 
There is a great diversity in modes of 
summer pruning the vines, and in what 
many call by that name we see only Vand- 
alism, that is to permit a free growth until 
after mid-summer, and then to go through 
the vineyard with a scythe or corn knife, 
cutting and slashing as if they were trim- 
ming a hedge. 
What we, here in Missouri, consider the 
proper method, is to have vines so pruned 
as to have two, three, or four canes start 
pretty well down on the vine, from spurs 
headed back for that purpose. These we 
let grow without any disturbance except to 
pinch the ends of the shoots when they have 
reached the top of the trellis or stake. Then 
let them run into laterals as strong as they 
please. 
And now for the fruiting branches, which 
we begin on as soon as there are two joints 
formed beyond the outside branch. We 
pinch the point off, and if there are too 
many bunches, pinch back to two or three 
eyes from the second bunch, taking the 
third bunch off. Two bunches are, as a 
rule, better than three or four. 
It will be but a few weeks until the out- 
side bud will have started out, and often 
both will make several joints of growth, 
from three to four inches; then pinch them 
again. This will form a canopy of leaves 
over the fruit, and will develop it better 
than if the cane had been left to grow with- 
out checking. There will be plenty of leaves 
to carry on the fruit and at the same time 
put more vigor and force into it. This being 
done, all the surplus vigor will go into the 
canes destined for the next year’s fruiting. 
If a man is growing fine grapes for sale 
let him try the thinning process on a few 
vines; that is, leaving only two bunches on 
each bearing branch, and if these should 
not be nice ones, let him take off but one 
(the best) and then see if these will not 
command more money than if the whole 
crop had been left on. It is a fact that few 
realize to what size some bunches will at- 
tain if properly thinned. If extra fine 
bunches are desired for exhibition, select 
the largest bunches when the berries are 
well formed, and with a small pair of pointed 
scissors, carefully clip out every alternate 
berry. If will surprise those who have 
never tried this, and it will afford no little 
gratification. 
I once exhibited .a bunch of Concords that 
weighed over one pound, and which had 
berries an inch in diameter. The President 
of the Society came to me and asked serious- 
ly whether it really was a Concord, and the 
committee thought that I was putting a joke 
upon them. This was nearly thirty years 
ago. when that famous grape was not so 
well known as now. This thinning has 
another great advantage in case we wish to 
bag them, as it takes so many less bags. 
As to girdling the vines there are various 
opinions as to its effect: some saying that 
the fruit is inferior, others that it improves 
it. For my part I have observed little dif- 
ference, but that it will mature the fruit 
earlier by a week or ten days, there is no 
doubt. 
Where a large part of the vine is to be cut 
away at the next pruning the girdle may 
be made at the base and it will save so 
many rings being cut out. 
1 intend trying wire of a certain size, tight- 
ly wound once around the vine, cross the 
points, then with a pair of pincers fastened 
by a twist. 
Trainingto single stakes I see recommend- 
ed as a preventative against rot, as the fruit 
is then more protected by the foliage. This 
may have some effect but is not a certain 
remedy. 
It will be well to keep a sharp lookout 
for the little blue beetle, which eat s the blos- 
som buds of the coming grape, and which, if 
there are many, will considerably damage 
the crop. They seldom entirely destroy 
a bunch but disfigure it greatly. A cup or 
basin to hold under the bunch when catch- 
ing them will be a great help, as they will 
drop from the fruit before the thumb and 
finger can pinch them, and when they do 
fall to the ground it is hard to find them 
for they “play possum” and lie still. Now is 
the time to get the vine under control for 
the season’s growth. Aside from the main 
canes that are to grow for fruiting the next 
summer, all shoots should be rubbed off as 
they start out. If this is done when they 
are yet quite small it does not effect the 
vines in the least, but when they have made 
considerable growth and are then removed, 
it gives the vines a slight check. At the 
same time it is well to remember what has 
been mentioned before that it will pay to 
reduce the amount of fruit by pinching off 
the small bunches of blossom; two large 
bunches that will weigh as much as three 
ordinary ones are of more value and do not 
tax the vine so much. 
Cultivation should be begun early, but 
not so deeply as to injure the roots. It has 
been argued that cutting the roots does not 
injure the vines, but is on the contrary 
a benefit. This is unsound logic to me. If 
root pruning is advisable, let it be done witli 
a sharp spade, which leaves the roots in their 
place instead of straining them out of place 
and tearing, rather than cutting them off. 
An article recently came under my notice 
which stated that a part of a vineyard laid 
down in blue grass was free from rot whilst 
the cultivated portion of the vineyard had 
rotted badly. This plan I would advise 
our readers not to try. “I have been there" 
and know whereof I speak. The results of 
such treatment will lie to speedily enlight- 
en them as to its evils. — S. Miller. 
