56 
March, 1889. 
ORGH PwR D |Tnd i GARDE N 
side. so as to always know where to find the 
graft when looking after it, and removing 
suckers. When the stock is large I use a 
thin bladed, sharp saw. and saw out a piece, 
an acute wedge, across the stock: cut the 
grafts so as to fit, and tap them tight with a 
little mallet. Even then I tie, for the stock 
seems to have a tendency to part. 
The graft should be kept in about the same 
condition as the stock in regard to advanced 
vegetation. This is particularly necessary 
for late grafting, which can be done after 
the vines have made a growth of six feet. 
When grafting thus late I like the buds on 
the grafts to be ready to burst. If the 
grafts are kept dormant in an ice house, or 
cold place for late grafting they are sure to 
fail. If there is any danger of the ground 
freezing after the early grafting, they must 
be covered with a mulch or they may be 
lifted from their sockets. 
I have grafted from February until May, 
some seasons, just when it suited me, and 
cannot at this day say that one particular 
time succeeded better than another. 
But I now mean to practice the late plan, 
when the vines have made a growth of a 
few feet. The weather is then pleasant, 
and they take at once, if they intend to 
grow. When there are young canes from 
the ground, it is a good plan to lay one 
down, cover for a few feet, six inches deep, 
and graft them. This is surer than work- 
ing on an old gnarly stock. In this latter 
case the suckers must be carefully taken off 
or they will rob the graft. 
As the new varieties come out I usually 
get them, regardless of price, but seldom 
get fruit until it is from grafts. Six dollars 
for three vines of Empire State bought four 
years ago. never yet bore a bunch of grapes, 
while a few grafts kindly sent me by Stone’s 
successor have borne two splendid crops. 
The same may be said of other new ones, 
of which sm-dl vines are sent out. 
Now the question will be asked: “What 
shall I graft on the vines I wish to change?” 
Jewel, E irly Victor, Woodruff’s Red, Niag- 
ara, Empire State, Moore’s Diamond, Pough- 
keepsie Red, Ulster Prolific. All these are 
valuable and promising. Pocklington would 
be included, were it not that Moore’s Dia- 
mond so far eclipses it that it is nowhere 
when compared with that variety. 
All my old varieties that don’t pay are 
converted into this noble one. Why the 
Concord is still planted when Worden vines 
are cheap enough, and so far superior, I 
cannot imagine. Moore’s Early, al. hough 
not first-rate in quality, is really one of the 
grapes that will hold a place for a long time 
to come. Those contemplating the setting 
out of new vineyards this coming spring, 
will not regret years hereafter the labor ex- 
pended now in having the ground trenched 
or subsoiled eighteen to twenty-four inches, 
well dressed with ashes, well rotted manure, 
and a few hundred pounds of bone-dust to 
the acre. 
Plant the strong-growing varieties seven 
feet by ten, instead of six feet by eight, as 
most of the vineyards were planted out 
here. That grape-growing will be overdone 
is possible, but it should not be until every 
man, woman and child can have all the 
grapes they wish to eat. 
If ever we can regulate freights on Rail- 
roads, and Express charges, the grower and 
consumer will both be greatly benefited, 
but so long as the Express Companies charge 
about as much as the grower gets, it is a poor 
paying business where one has to ship. 
I have nearly an acre of grapes, but don’t 
pretend to market any. Thirty stands of 
bees within a hundred yards save me the 
trouble of gathering the most of them. 
Honey is the reward. 
If all the old loose bark is taken clean off 
the vines, all the splinters on the post and 
bark, if there are any, gathered up and 
burned, the blue beetle will be less liable to 
trouble the vines. They sometimes injure 
the young branches greatly in our vine- 
yards here, and it is necessary to look over 
the vines and catch them. 
Stakes and Posts. 
If these are given a good coat of coal tar 
before setting, they will last much longer, 
besides keeping weeds from growing close 
up to them, which must usually be re- 
moved by hand. Another advantage is 
there will no insects harbor in little crevices 
or under splinters, that otherwise hibernate 
in such places. 
For tying up the vines to the trellis in 
the spring, I use fine malleable wire, such 
as is used in binding grain by the reapers, 
cut in lengths. Lap this around, not too tight- 
ly, give the ends a cross and one twist 
and it is safe for the season. It will not in- 
jure the vines, and even if it does cut in a 
little it will do no harm, as in most cases 
this is cut out at the next priming, 
In a vineyard planted at the usual distance 
three young canes, six feet long, are snffici 
ent to bear a good crop, and at the same 
time there should be three or four young 
spurs left to send out canes for the follow- 
ing year. 
As to summer pruning (which often does 
more harm than benefit) we will dwell up- 
on when the proper time comes. 
It is important, in the spring before com- 
mencing to cultivate, that all the rotten, 
dried grapes that may remain on the ground, 
should be gathered carefully and burned, 
or buried so deeply that the plow will not 
bring them up again. I am satisfied that if 
this is carefully done, that the worst of all 
evils (the rot) to our grapes might be great- 
ly lessened. — S. M. 
In the February No., of Orchard and 
Garden I see the Brighton Grape mention- 
ed as not a good grape for Western New 
York. I have a small cottage vineyard on 
the east side of Canandaigua Lake, near the 
head of the lake, where for two years I have 
grown some very fine Brighton grapes. The 
clusters were large, double shouldered, and 
the berries setting as thickly as possible, 
were delicious. In the dozen varieties I 
had, the Brighton were the finest. Give 
me Brighton for my table. — E.A.Wetmore. 
Spraying Pump*. 
In our attempts to combat the insect and 
fungus enemies of cultivated plants, with 
the various solutions employed for this pur- 
pose, some apparatus for applying these solu- 
tic ns in an effective manner is absolutely 
necessary. It must not be forgotton that in 
contending with fungi we must begin the 
battle early in the season if we would be suc- 
cessful, therefore we would say to those who 
expect to have a use for spraying pumps in 
applying fungicides, order them now if you 
have not already done so. If you wait until 
a sprayer is actually needed before ordering, 
the apparatus may come too late to be of 
service. Such was the experience of many 
last year. 
Excepting for operations of the most limit- 
ed extent none of the pumps giving an in- 
termittent spray are of any value. They 
may do to wash or water plants in a green 
house or a small garden. They are waste- 
ful of both the time of the operator and the 
material they are used to apply. In the case 
of some fungicides economy in its use is a 
matter of some moment. 
The Japy Nozzle. Fig. 1571. 
As a general rule our spraying pumps are 
far more cumbersome than is necessary and 
too laborious in their operation, and with 
few exceptions the nozzles supplied with 
them are very poor. When clear solutions 
are to be used, the Nixon Climax nozzle is 
one of the best, although the breadth of the 
spray is small and there is considerable 
waste of power in the force required to break 
up the jet. For spraying the Bordeaux mix- 
ture this nozzle is useless. The “Boss” 
nozzle possesses some merit where there is 
much work to be done in the orchard or 
field, but to make a good spray with it de- 
mands a strong force pump and, as usually 
managed, there is a good deal of waste of 
material. 
The Eureka sprayer, invented and manu- 
factured by Adam Weaber, of Vineland, 
N. J., is one of the best yet made in this 
couutry for nursery and vineyard use ; it is 
also particularly well adapted for spraying 
cabbages, strawberries, potatoes, etc. It has 
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