154 
August, 1889. 
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July number of Orchard & Garden. All 
canes that had reached the top of the trellis 
should he pinched off so as to start laterals, 
which will bear the finest bunches of fruit 
when spurred back to two or three eyes. 
This is particularly the case with the Con- 
cord family. This I discovered years ago 
by accident, and it has been practiced by 
many here in Missouri for years. Of the 
Norton family, the Norton and Cynthiana 
are the best two for wine, and I consider 
them excellent table grapes as grown here. 
Both these have a tendency to send out 
young shoots at the ground during the sum- 
mer and should be rubbed off, or they will 
affect the fruit. 
Canopy a Protection against Itot iu 
Grapes. 
In putting up a little trellis for an isolated 
vine it was necessary to put a stiffener on 
top to prevent the wires drawing the parts 
toward each other. A six inch board was 
nailed on top of the posts, and a cane 
of the vine was purposely trained under this. 
Now, July 6th. when the rot is almost 
universal over the vineyard, (with very few 
varieties exempt) and on the above vine, ex- 
cept the few bunches under said board, 
which are clean, the question will arise, 
whether we can afford to canopy all these 
vines, unless the spraying process saves 
them, of which I hope those who have tried 
it will report. Choice Concords selling at 
two cents per pound won't pay for any ex- 
tra expense. 
True, the finer kinds, such as Diamond, 
Empire. Niagara, and the like, may warrant 
us in giving them such protection. It is 
surprising that every man who has a house 
does not train vines under the eaves of his 
roof, where they will escape both mildew 
and rot. I have grown fine foreign grapes in 
such a situation, and would have my house 
sides covered with grape vines but for the 
opposition of the better half of humanity 
who objects to it. — Samuel Miller. 
Some Grape Notes. 
I am glad to acknowledge the kindness 
of Vick's Monthly, in replying to my enquiry 
about a “bogus" Salem Grape. It says that: 
“the Agawam, Rogers' 15, is very generally 
marketed as Salem, and is not equal to the 
latter in quality, though is usually consider- 
ed a good grape.” It is quite probable that 
the specimens I have seen were gathered 
too soon. They had nothing about them re- 
sembling the Salem, except size and color; 
and their sale for that variety would cer- 
tainly discredit it with all buyers. 
Girdling the vines is likely to be exten- 
sively tried the current season, by Prof. 
Maynard’s method of tightly twisting No. 
20 annealed iron wire about the bearing 
shoots with strong pincers, or “plyers.” 
This will give a better basis than we have 
yet had to judge of the effect of this meth- 
od upon the quality of the fruit. But it 
will hardly be fair to condemn the system 
because not all girdled grapes will be sweet 
and good. — T. H. Hoskins. 
Timely Talk. 
The crop having now all been harvested 
the strawberry grower should have decided 
by this time what he will do with the land 
for the coming year. Whether it will pay 
him better to take another crop from the 
plants or set a new 
field on which to de- 
pend for future sup- 
plies will depend 
upon the condition 
of the plants, the 
land, and the de- 
mands of the mar- 
ket in which his 
fruit is sold. Old 
plants are not so vigorous or as fruitful as 
those which are young and will not pro- 
duce as fine a quality of fruit. If the bed 
is to be kept for future crops it should be 
thoroughly cleaned at once if not already 
done. Weeds slio 
be mowed and 
moved and a pi 
or cultivator run 
tween the rows, 
dressing of well-) 
ted manure \ 
greatly benefit 
plants and do mi 
towards ensuring a good crop of fruit next 
season. In cases where the plants are in- 
fested with insects, mow and burn over the 
bed as suggested last month. 
Fig. 442. 
object to disturb 
If new plants are to be set, to supply next 
season’s crop of berries, they should be put 
out early this month 
— as early as well 
rooted plants can be 
obtained. It should 
be remembered that 
strawberry plants do 
not make runners 
much before July and 
nurserymen naturally 
their beds during the 
growing season, to sell at very low rates, 
but good well rooted plants may be obtain- 
ed in August of most of the standard sorts 
at about -SI. 00 per 
100. Later in the 
season plants will 
cost much less but 
they will not be 
nearly so productive 
as those set early in 
August. They must 
also be set carefully 
and receive the best 
of care. The rather 
slovenly and hasty 
style of planting too 
Spring will not do for August and Septem- 
ber. We illustrate some of the very irn- 
FlG. 440. 
often practised in 
proper ways in which strawberry plants 
are often set. In Fig. 441 the plant is set 
far too deeply into the soil, whereby the 
crown is soon rotted and the plant dies. 
Fig. 443 shows the other extreme, the 
crown being too high out of the soil. In 
Fig. 442 we have a plant hastily thrust into 
the soil with its roots crowded together in 
a bunch. For a correctly set plant see 
Fig. 440 where the roots are spread out 
evenly, and the crown is on a level with the 
surrounding soil, the latter being packed 
firmly around the plant. This plant will 
live and grow; the others will die. The 
young plants should be carried in a pail 
with their roots in water and not thrown 
along the row 
to dry out be- 
fore planting. 
Do not fail to 
firm the soil 
arouud the 
plant with the 
feet. Shade 
for a few days 
with old berry 
boxes, a hand- A Good potted Plant. 
ful of straw or any similar light material. 
Potted plants are the delight, however, of 
the summer planter. With well grown 
potted plants one can plant at all seasons 
and in all weather. But there are potted 
plants and potted plants, and some of them 
are infinitely inferior to good layers. A 
well grown plant should possess a ball of 
young fibrous roots held well together but 
not pot-bound (see illustration). Before 
planting soak the ball of earth thoroughly 
and when set press the soil firmly around 
it. Planted in August on good soil, potted 
plants will produce a good yield the follow- 
ing season and of the largest fruit. 
If one is desirous of enlarging his straw- 
berry plantation he may readily obtain 
from his own grounds probably all the 
plants he will need, provided that those 
which he now has are of the variety he 
wishes to grow. Runners will form in 
large numbers and if the land is rich and 
mellow they will soon become well rooted 
and fit to transplant. With a little pains 
he may obtain some of the advantages of 
potted plants by putting under the young 
plants pieces of inverted sod, about three or 
four inches square, instead of pots. The 
runners will root in these pieces and when 
well rooted may be transplanted bodily. 
The roots will not be injured by removal 
and the growth of the plants will not be 
checked at all. 
One of the most common mistakes of 
those who attempt to grow strawberries for 
family use, and a mistake which is also 
made by not a few of those who grow for 
market, is in not making the land rich 
enough. The strawberry plant is a gross 
feeder and can profitably use a large quan- 
tity of fertilizing material. To produce a 
strong plant growth and consequent large 
