September, 1889. 
169 
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Peacli Yellows. II. 
Resuming the subject of Yellows in the 
peach, a series of articles upon which we 
began in the May number of this journal, 
we take up now the topic of how the trees 
grow. The root as soon as pushed from 
the seed seeks a soil to supply the necessary 
food for its support. This is accomplished 
by pushing a root into the soil, armed at the 
end by a root-cap, which protects the ten- 
der root from injury whilst its growth 
elongates and pushes it into the soil. When 
it has penetrated some distance small root- 
hairs are put out from every side of the new 
root, which at once begin to absorb mois- 
ture and with it all that the moisture has 
dissolved from the soil. These new roots 
branch in all directions in search of food, 
each root at the end being protected by a 
root-cap and clothed with multitudes of the 
feeding hair roots. The root searches for 
the best feeding ground for the species to 
which the plant belongs. Thus the hickory 
and pine send an immense tap-root down 
deep into the soil. The willow roots near 
the surface, always in search for water, and 
will often follow the bricks of the deepest 
well in search of it. The peach dislikes 
water, roots only moderately deep, and re- 
quires a soil of open texture, for its roots 
have not the requisite power to push into a 
hard, tenacious, uncultivated soil. In this 
respect it is unlike the cherry which will 
flourish in suitable soils with no cultivation 
whatever. 
Understanding now something of the 
root we will consider the stem and branch- 
es. Almost at the same time that the roots 
begin to search for a supporting soil, a stem 
is pushed upwards, differing with the species 
of the plant. The Lombardy poplar as- 
sumes a tall slim body; the oak a spreading 
form. The LeConte pear a form approach- 
ing the Lombard}' poplar; the Clapp pear 
long, straggling branches. The peach has in 
its nature all these forms. The poplar peach 
grows as its name indicates. The Thurber 
spreads like an oak; others assume more 
or less the weeping form of the willow. 
All these facts, small as it may seem, have 
an important bearing upon the question of 
the cause of yellows. The tall growers, un- 
less topped or protected, are injured in root 
by winds, and the yellows soon follows. 
Those that are of drooping habit if trained 
high lose all the lower branches natural to 
them and are forced, if they grow at all, to 
assume a different course than that nature 
intended for them, and if they grow, weak- 
ness and yellows will follow. There is also 
a very different form of branching of the 
peach that requires notice. The Bilyeu 
branches at a slight angle, and unless top- 
ped will fcrm long arms which split easily, 
and from their weight, when loaded, will 
bend and rupture the wood cells; the yellows 
will then follow. As we proceed we shall 
look again into these and many more pecu- 
liar conditions that affect the growth and 
health of the peach. — LLi Minch. 
Beecham's Pills cures Sick Headache. 
The Hardy Catalpa. 
My own attempts to grow seedlings of 
this species were a failure — they being killed 
by the first hard autumn freeze. But I 
have watched with much interest a single 
planted specimen growing near a house 
in the village of Newport, (Vt. ) for 
the last five or six years. It has grown 
freely and wintered well, bearing a fair 
show of bloom in the Summer of 1888. But 
last winter, — apparently less severe than 
several preceding ones, though it had one 
mercury-freezing night, — killed about all 
the limbs of this village tree, though I see 
the trunk is sprouting vigorously. But I 
believe it would pay to plant out these Ca- 
talpas, even if we treat them as Mr. 
Carman treated his Paulonia, — growing it 
from the root every season as an annual, or 
rather as an herbacious perennial. Like the 
Paulonia in New York, the Catalpa would 
probably be short-lived when so treated ;but 
it is so handsome that the experiment is 
worth trying. — T. H. Hoskins, M. D. 
Flowering Trees. 
The most beautiful flowering tree that 
we have ever seen is a Wistaria Cliinensis, 
trained by tying to a stake when young 
and persistently cutting off all but one strong 
shoot. After reaching a height of six or 
seven feet its growth upward is checked^ 
and it then throws out side branches in the 
form of a tree, and in time is fairly loaded 
with beautiful, pendant blooms which no 
other tree can surpass or equal. — I. Hicks. 
Lawn making. 
A good lawn is the masterpiece of orna- 
mental planting and there is no better time 
for sowing grass seed than September, pro- 
vided it be done early, that it may make a 
good growth and become well rooted before 
freezing weather. The soil should be good 
and deep and properly graded. After dig- 
ging or ploughing the ground, harrow and 
rake fine, fill and level all hollows and roll 
firmly down. Then sow the seed, rake fine 
and roll again. Topdress with a light dress- 
ing of well rotted manure for winter pro- 
tection. Four bushels of seed to the acre 
will make a thick, heavy sod. Do not sow 
grain with the grass seed. Several kinds of 
grass may be sown — red top, blue grass, or- 
chard grass, w ith a little White Dutch Clo- 
ver. Weeds are the great enemies of good 
turf and every lawn should be kept free 
from them. The use of good artificial fer- 
tilizers helps to secure freedom from weeds 
and when barnyard manure is used it should 
be well fermented and rotted to destroy all 
weed seeds. 
September Talk. 
The principle work in the vineyard dur- 
ing September is to gather the grapes as 
they ripen and make use of them profit- 
ably at home or for market. They may be 
used in various ways, such as making 
jelly, canning, or making wine; the latter, 
however, not usually being done until Oc- 
tober in the Northern part of the country. 
The most popular way of putting them 
up for market is in five and ten pound 
baskets either with lids or covered with 
gauze. Those who are averse to making 
wine may still have the benefit of the juice 
by boiling it while fresh and before any de- 
gree of fermentation has taken place. It 
should be boiled until quite clear, the scum 
arising being taken off repeatedly. If de- 
sirable the juice may be boiled down fully 
one half or even one third; it will require 
less vessels to hold it and can be diluted 
when used to drink. Last fall I simply 
boiled mine until quite clear, and just be- 
fore taking off, put in about one pound of 
sugar to every two gallons of juice. This 
gives it more body, and does not at all de- 
tract from the flavor. When wanted to 
drink we fill a tumbler about one third full 
and fill up with fresh water, when we have 
a drink fit for a king. Whilst I am not op- 
posed to wine making, or drinking it in 
moderation, but really like a glass of good 
wine, I think the unfermented juice an- 
swers as good a purpose in nearly all cases, 
with the advantage of not leading to in- 
temperance. I do not know of a beverage 
that has a more enlivening effect on the sys- 
tem than this, and when we consider that 
it takes no more room to hold it than if put 
into wine there is a moralizing advantage in 
having it thus. It is not necessary that it 
should be put in bottles alone but any ves- 
sel that can be sealed air-tight will answer. 
It can be put in a five, ten or forty gallon 
barrel if it is desired to have it in quantity. 
But if put into wooden vessels they must 
be perfectly sweet, or the hot juice will ex- 
tract the taste of the wood . Before putting 
it into them the vessels should be ' washed 
with boiling water as to heat the wood well; 
the boiled juice put in as soon as possible, 
bunged lip and sealed. But it must be remem- 
bered that when this is drawn upon it must 
be in cold weather or it will soon commence 
to ferment. If not touched until the fol- 
lowing summer, it will be necessary to heat 
it again and put it in bottles for convenience. 
The leaf folders will need looking after 
now; they seem very abundant this season. 
When the leaf is already crumpled, the best 
way is to give it a squeeze in the hand and 
kill the insect, as the leaf is usually at this 
time past its usefulness. Dust the vines 
most liable to be attacked by this insect 
liberally with sulphur, lime, or Ham- 
